I have a spare 88 CRX HF transmission that I want to put in storage but I want to remove the shift linkage from it to make it easier to store (it won't fit with it on) but I don't know the best way to remove it.
I could hack saw the thing off but I'd rather do it the 'right way' if possible. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance...

Here's a pic of what I'm talking about...

 

Have you removed the spring pin? In order to remove the shift rod, you need to remove the spring pin, then it just comes right out. Get the right size punch, and just hammer it out...it will take a few good hits.

Or you can try Wes V's method: http://www.performanceforum.co....html

It gives alot of people trouble, but just search for 'bitch pin' and you'll find an different methods. I ended up buying a tool from matco specifically designed to remove spring pins.

edit: here's a thread I made a while back: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1993271

 

Cool...thanks for the links! I'll try the C clamp way first...then hammer that little biatch out if need be.

 

What I use is an A/C pump mounting bolt (the end looks sharpened)
If your not good at hand/eye coordination...
you might want to hold the bolt with some channel locks or vice grips.
Make sure youve got it aligned straight.
Youve got to hit it like its your little sister's BF....
DOnt be scared of it, its only a bitch pin.
GL man!

 

If you go to sears and get the correct punch that craftsman makes, it comes out with a tap!

 

you need an 8mm punch, or any bolt that is 8mm in diameter to get that pin out.

 

Thanks fellas for all your help.

I just wanted to say how I did it incase others were trying to figure it out too.

I went to OSH and did get a $12 8 inch C clamp and a correct sized 'punch' for ~$7-$8 but as a back up I got a pack of two 1.25" long 6mm screws for a whopping $0.59. The right size probably is 8mm but the threads on a 8mm screw would probably make the screw too thick to fit inside the bitch pin, at least that's what it looked like to me so I decided to go with the 6mm ones.

I decided to try the 'easy' methods first, so I tried the C clamp with a screw to 'push' through but that was a pain in the *** since the screw kept falling while trying to compress the C clamp. I think this might be best if you have 3 hands or a friend helping you out.

So on to cheap method second, the screws. Since these were 6mm screws they fit very gently into the bitch pin's recess and stay there with a little force to compress it in. Then with a relatively small hammer (since I don't own a large one) I gently tapped on the screw until it came out. After about 3 slight hits it popped out nice and intact.

It really came out easy without requiring hard hammering on it as I originally thought it would need. So I returned the unused/upopened punch and saved myself $8 and $12 for the C clamp so not bad for a $0.59 solution!

Thanks for everyone's input!


Modified by 97SS at 11:00 AM 12/10/2007

 

I've been using the chuck key for my drill... it's ends are beveled and seem to fit the bitch pin almost as good as the correct spring pin punch would.