Silly Season mod to do list help....
Hey guys, I just got back from VIR late last night and on the ride home my dad and I were talking about what is next for the car, diff, final drive, cams, head work, or tires. Just a quick rundown I have a 96 Integra RS with only a CAI and DC header for power mods, test pipe and ITR cat back are coming ASAP. I have completely refreshed the car suspension wise.. Bearings, bushing, brakes, axles all new and the suspension setup is TrueChoice Koni Re-valves w/ 500F/550R springs, ITR rear bar and oem front bar. The wheels and tires are Hankook RS2's on 15x7 Kosie TS1's. The car also has a Kirk role bar, Ultrasheild Pro Race seats and G-Force 6 Pt harnesses....
I'm just trying to figure out what is next..
I ran with TrackDaze on the full course and I am completely flat footed from T5 -T10 cresting T-9 at around 108-110. The biggest problem I think is getting power down in T12 if I go to 2nd and I would love to compress my breaking zones.
So... I figure after talking out all the scenarios, first will be 225-45-15 NT01's or full tread RA-1's on 15x7.5 Rota Slips, then diff then cams then final drive..... Do any of you guys who have been at this for a while see any problem with this. Also I will be running in the Advanced/Group3 run groups from here on out so I'm not exactly a noob. I just don't want to put the proverbial cart before the horse with next few mods I make. The wife is talking kids so I know my play $ is going to say by by rather quickly.
Oh yeah much thanx to AnotherDrew for the ride yesterday
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Sorry for the long post and thanx for the help.
I'm just trying to figure out what is next..
I ran with TrackDaze on the full course and I am completely flat footed from T5 -T10 cresting T-9 at around 108-110. The biggest problem I think is getting power down in T12 if I go to 2nd and I would love to compress my breaking zones.
So... I figure after talking out all the scenarios, first will be 225-45-15 NT01's or full tread RA-1's on 15x7.5 Rota Slips, then diff then cams then final drive..... Do any of you guys who have been at this for a while see any problem with this. Also I will be running in the Advanced/Group3 run groups from here on out so I'm not exactly a noob. I just don't want to put the proverbial cart before the horse with next few mods I make. The wife is talking kids so I know my play $ is going to say by by rather quickly.
Oh yeah much thanx to AnotherDrew for the ride yesterday
.Sorry for the long post and thanx for the help.
Stock RS trans and my plans are to become an Instructor in about 2 years.... Right abot the time the wife wants rugrats.
I think I have a feeling you are going to recomend a JDM ITR tranny as many have... Used dont know what problems it may have for $1200-$1500
Or even a new USDM trans off Ebay zero miles better gearing with diff $1700 at my door. I've looked into those routes but I am going to have to budget and cant throw thousands at the car all at once. And that is really the big problem.
I think I have a feeling you are going to recomend a JDM ITR tranny as many have... Used dont know what problems it may have for $1200-$1500
Or even a new USDM trans off Ebay zero miles better gearing with diff $1700 at my door. I've looked into those routes but I am going to have to budget and cant throw thousands at the car all at once. And that is really the big problem.
Actually, I was thinking a GSR tranny, which I've been using for the past three years. ITR gearing would be better probably, but for the difference in price I'm not that sure. A very nice GSR with ITR LSD would be ~$900. A new FD would be just a couple hundred less than that, but then you still have that awful 5th gear.
If just having fun out there is the goal, I think your next modifications are right on target. If you're flat out T5-T10, and reaching ~110 at the top of the esses you must be doing fairly well, and I'd imagine that's right about at the limit of those tires. Cams + IM will make everything more fun, but remember to set aside a little extra for tuning
If just having fun out there is the goal, I think your next modifications are right on target. If you're flat out T5-T10, and reaching ~110 at the top of the esses you must be doing fairly well, and I'd imagine that's right about at the limit of those tires. Cams + IM will make everything more fun, but remember to set aside a little extra for tuning
Yeah I have a friend who ownes a shop with a dyno so tuning will not be a problem nor a huge expence...
So Mr. cheezmonkey are you leaning towards tires first then cams, IM and TB? then trans??? and how well dose the ls respond to IM, TB and cams with out ant porting?
So Mr. cheezmonkey are you leaning towards tires first then cams, IM and TB? then trans??? and how well dose the ls respond to IM, TB and cams with out ant porting?
Tires will make the biggest difference, trans/FD will be the second biggest. Cams and IM will definitely be noticeable, but not to the extent of the other two. I'm not sure TB is entirely necessary, but it sure won't hurt anything. Porting will help too, but I'm not sure by how much. That depends on who does the porting too, of course. I know Brad at RLZ does great work, and charges about $300/head, I don't know that it's necessary for HPDEing though. There are a few more in-depth threads, but this is a good start: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2108181
Cams and IM will open up the top-end of an LS motor a LOT. Where before your power would be falling off by 6000rpm or so, you'd be able to rev out to 7500 easy. Look at Crower 403s and Brian Crower 0022s (probably leaning more towards the BC0022s, honestly).
Cams and IM will open up the top-end of an LS motor a LOT. Where before your power would be falling off by 6000rpm or so, you'd be able to rev out to 7500 easy. Look at Crower 403s and Brian Crower 0022s (probably leaning more towards the BC0022s, honestly).
ITR tranny= hyped up and not worth the money
if you are looking for that type of gearing just get a hydro b16a tranny and through an FD and LSD at it at the same time.
I'd do, tires, then tranny, then power mods.
If you already have issues getting the power down, then it is just going to be much more frustrating when you have more power.
You can find an b16a tranny in need of some syncros for around 300. Get the gear-speed syncro set, Gear-X FD, and either a Kaaz or carbonetic LSD.
if you are looking for that type of gearing just get a hydro b16a tranny and through an FD and LSD at it at the same time.
I'd do, tires, then tranny, then power mods.
If you already have issues getting the power down, then it is just going to be much more frustrating when you have more power.
You can find an b16a tranny in need of some syncros for around 300. Get the gear-speed syncro set, Gear-X FD, and either a Kaaz or carbonetic LSD.
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It was nice meeting you, Mike!
So if you spend money on a tranny, is that going to hurt your budget enough that you will be going to fewer driving event? If so, I'd rather spend the money going to the track. The money you spend going to the track to learn to go 0.5 seconds faster will last longer than any set of tires will. Get someone who can really drive your car well (RJ, Perrera, AJ, etc) and set a laptime. If your lap time is close, buy some tires or a tranny. If your times aren't even close, spend the money for more track events.
So if you spend money on a tranny, is that going to hurt your budget enough that you will be going to fewer driving event? If so, I'd rather spend the money going to the track. The money you spend going to the track to learn to go 0.5 seconds faster will last longer than any set of tires will. Get someone who can really drive your car well (RJ, Perrera, AJ, etc) and set a laptime. If your lap time is close, buy some tires or a tranny. If your times aren't even close, spend the money for more track events.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Another Drew »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get someone who can really drive your car well (RJ, Perrera, AJ, etc) and set a laptime. If your lap time is close, buy some tires or a tranny.
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Good advice Andrew, but "close" is relative to those knuckleheads
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Good advice Andrew, but "close" is relative to those knuckleheads
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good advice Andrew, but "close" is relative to those knuckleheads
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HAHAHA, Yeah I may PM Chris on one of our local forums and see if he is willing to hop in the car for a few laps. I'm also with the thought process that more power with street tires isn't going to be any better in my situation. I also know that track time is key to picking up those .5 Sec here and there... and good tires mask bad drivers. With what ever I do to the car it will not keep me from using the car. I have budgeted for 4-5 events next year and any change or mod is going to be with play $. That being said the holidays are coming and I think Tires.com offers gift card (I really need to check into that) and extended family could quickly pick up the tab for a tire or two
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Oh and Andrew my friend in the Z asked me at diner last night " Hey, that guy driving that H1 car you were in was just play'n with wasn't he?" I said "yeah pretty much" He smiled and shook his head.
Good advice Andrew, but "close" is relative to those knuckleheads
</TD></TR></TABLE>HAHAHA, Yeah I may PM Chris on one of our local forums and see if he is willing to hop in the car for a few laps. I'm also with the thought process that more power with street tires isn't going to be any better in my situation. I also know that track time is key to picking up those .5 Sec here and there... and good tires mask bad drivers. With what ever I do to the car it will not keep me from using the car. I have budgeted for 4-5 events next year and any change or mod is going to be with play $. That being said the holidays are coming and I think Tires.com offers gift card (I really need to check into that) and extended family could quickly pick up the tab for a tire or two
. Oh and Andrew my friend in the Z asked me at diner last night " Hey, that guy driving that H1 car you were in was just play'n with wasn't he?" I said "yeah pretty much" He smiled and shook his head.
jdm itr trans would be too short. a 4.4 would be ok. but anything shorter than an ls trans will help. lsd is always good (in your trans) and tires....eh. i cant tell you not to get them unless your gonna go racing cause i bought r-comps when i did not intend to ever race this car. i just wanted more grip and to be like the cool kids.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good advice Andrew, but "close" is relative to those knuckleheads
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yea. i cant run 'close' lat pimes to Aahj with a b16 in my car. granted my car is set up like ****, but still. dem der fellars is fas
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good advice Andrew, but "close" is relative to those knuckleheads
</TD></TR></TABLE>yea. i cant run 'close' lat pimes to Aahj with a b16 in my car. granted my car is set up like ****, but still. dem der fellars is fas
I talked to .RJ some time ago about a final as he had an ATS 4.9 in his RS. And he mentioned that either a 4.7 or a 4.9 would be fine. I dont have to drive the car on the street so its not a big deal. But I'm up for sugestions. Also I have no intent of racing the car, maybe some TT's and becoming an instructor is the main goal. Thats why I'm looking at the 7.5 inch wheels.
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