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Haha, Im a little nutty at times. So I did a serch and it says that there is a bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder, and that I should open it and pump the clutch, and just make sure that the clutch fluid is filled to top. Sound about right
Haha, Im a little nutty at times. So I did a serch and it says that there is a bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder, and that I should open it and pump the clutch, and just make sure that the clutch fluid is filled to top. Sound about right
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Search
Haha, Im a little nutty at times. So I did a serch and it says that there is a bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder, and that I should open it and pump the clutch, and just make sure that the clutch fluid is filled to top. Sound about right
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Sort of....
Put a hose on the bleeder nipple going into a bottle 1/2 full or so of clutch fluid (so that the hose is down into the fluid). Then loosen the bleeder screw and push the clutch. The air bubbles will eventually come out and rise to the top of the bottle of fluid and then when the pedal comes back out you will suck up fluid instead of the air.
Haha, Im a little nutty at times. So I did a serch and it says that there is a bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder, and that I should open it and pump the clutch, and just make sure that the clutch fluid is filled to top. Sound about right
</TD></TR></TABLE>Sort of....
Put a hose on the bleeder nipple going into a bottle 1/2 full or so of clutch fluid (so that the hose is down into the fluid). Then loosen the bleeder screw and push the clutch. The air bubbles will eventually come out and rise to the top of the bottle of fluid and then when the pedal comes back out you will suck up fluid instead of the air.
The shorter the line you use coming off the nipple, the better. That way the air doesn't have to make it all the way to the bottle.
The best way to do this is to get a friend.
Have him sit in the car, and you mind the nipple
Bleeder nip starts out closed, and always make sure that the reservoir is full of brake fluid.
He will slowly pump the pedal 4 times up and down, and I do mean s l o w l y. This will help work the air out.
On his last pump, he will hold the pedal to the floor.
With it held completely down, as far as it can go, you crack open the bleeder, and let all the fluid/air come out before you close it back up.
DO NOT LET THE PEDAL COME UP WITH THE NIPPLE OPEN. Close it.
He will most likely have to reach down and pick the pedal up off the floor, it will suck a bunch of fluid in when he does that, so keep making sure the reservoir is full or you'll get more air in there.
Repeat until it feels nice.
The best way to do this is to get a friend.
Have him sit in the car, and you mind the nipple

Bleeder nip starts out closed, and always make sure that the reservoir is full of brake fluid.
He will slowly pump the pedal 4 times up and down, and I do mean s l o w l y. This will help work the air out.
On his last pump, he will hold the pedal to the floor.
With it held completely down, as far as it can go, you crack open the bleeder, and let all the fluid/air come out before you close it back up.
DO NOT LET THE PEDAL COME UP WITH THE NIPPLE OPEN. Close it.
He will most likely have to reach down and pick the pedal up off the floor, it will suck a bunch of fluid in when he does that, so keep making sure the reservoir is full or you'll get more air in there.
Repeat until it feels nice.
Okay would this scenario gain a higher final wheel drive
The h23 tranny with the h22a
Will that get a higher MPH per gear than the orignal H23 that it was intended to go with. Or will the current transmisson level stay the same with either motor
The h23 tranny with the h22a
Will that get a higher MPH per gear than the orignal H23 that it was intended to go with. Or will the current transmisson level stay the same with either motor
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For the most complete answer to that, go look at a set of gear ratios in the FAQ's, but yes the H23 has longer gearing overall, so will have higher speed per gear than the US H22 tranny.
Okay thanks guys, I just blead the clutch, and the damn thing is "OH" so nice now.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With it held completely down, as far as it can go, you crack open the bleeder, and let all the fluid/air come out before you close it back up.
DO NOT LET THE PEDAL COME UP WITH THE NIPPLE OPEN.
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What happens if I brought the pedal up with the bleader nipple open?
DO NOT LET THE PEDAL COME UP WITH THE NIPPLE OPEN.
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What happens if I brought the pedal up with the bleader nipple open?
Well I ran a hose from the bleader nipple into a cup of fluid. I did it about 20 times, opening and closing the bleader nipple, it turned the brake fluid dirty brown. Nasty ****. I wasnt sure when I should be done, cause the thing just kept sucking up more fluid, so I spent about a half hour to 45 mins pumping it through. Now it feels really good.
it sounds like you are doing it right but you arent letting the clutch pedal up are you? because you dont "want" to suck that fluid up but just have it there in case. you just add more fluid to the clutch fluid cylinder when it gets low. if you are sucking the fluid up you are getting nowhere really.
i bled my brakes last weekend and boy was it a nasty color. some was brown, some was white, it was pretty bad
.i bled them until it was as clear as what i was putting in and now they feel solid with my new hawk HPS pads.
i bled my brakes last weekend and boy was it a nasty color. some was brown, some was white, it was pretty bad
.i bled them until it was as clear as what i was putting in and now they feel solid with my new hawk HPS pads.
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