now i have two dents in my shock tower. what do i need to do to fix this? I am barely tucking tire.

i have gc extended top hats, did the shock lowering mod, and have a camber kit(the one that connects at the two uca moutning points.

should i just remove the camber kit?

 

Go back to stock height if you dont like it, I've got two nasty dents on my shock towers and I aint bitchin.

 

its your camber kits.

why do you need them anyway?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its your camber kits.

why do you need them anyway?</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

Raise your car like 1/2" or 3/4" and remove the camber kit...if your toe is aligned properly, you won't wear your tires down much at all. That'll solve your problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by T- rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go back to stock height if you dont like it, I've got two nasty dents on my shock towers and I aint bitchin.</TD></TR></TABLE>

when you have any problems with your car your just going to deal with it. go expletive urself with that ****.

would removing the camber kit give me the extra travel i need? i was looking at my shock tower and the dents that it created it seems like there won't be enough travel. it seems like it will dent the place where the stock location. i am probably going to try to go just little bit lower.

i was thinking about adding some washers to the uca mounting points the gain more travel would you guys think that will work?


Modified by civicnoob at 9:41 AM 11/18/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicnoob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was thinking about adding some washers to the uca mounting points the gain more travel would you guys think that will work?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not a particularly good idea for a few reasons. Just raise the car or get rid of the camber adjusters.

No F bombs in here. Edit your post. Please be civil.

 

You're having issues with the UCAs hitting your shock towers and you want to go lower? That'll make things worse dude...

You're asking our advice here...remove the camber kit, put the stock pieces back on, and raise the car even like 1/2" or 3/4", and you should be good.

Removing your camber kit might give a little bit extra travel because it won't be hitting your shock towers as easily, but you still should raise it a little bit because it could still happen with the stock upper arms.

Adding washers where you're talking about won't solve anything, really...I don't see it raising the car at all, because it'll just push those mounting points down with respect to the ball joint on the end of the arm. You're adding washers to a place that'll just rotate a bit more to accommodate for the washers. It might even mess with your alignment a bit...not 100% sure though. So no, it won't work there.

It's not worth it man...tucking tire means your car is REALLY low. If you're willing to have holes in your shock towers and have those holes start rusting and coming apart, just so you can have your car look slammed, then go for it...watch people get confused as to why your ride height is uneven when everything's adjusted the same (from the shock towers being weaker and bending).

 

I used to just barely tuck 205/45-16 tires, and I have NO dents in my shock towers. But I've also had stock UCA's at all times.

 

I ride pretty dumped and I rarely hit the UCA's. I used to have one aftermarket UCA and it had a nut on top so it would hit hard only on the right side. I removed it with a stock one and i havn't heard that nasty bang since. having that little extra space will help out a lot when replacing the camber kit.

 

i am tucking just a little bit like a centimeter of the tire.

i removed my camber kit and i think the control arms are still hitting the shock tower. looks like i have a new dent.

could it be because the top mounts and the fork lowering mod.

 

what is your spiring rate? might need higher rates for the ride height you are at.

 

With an extremely modest drop I had problems with the UCA hitting the inner fender area with a camber kit. I would recommend removing the kit and getting an alignment.
Dan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicnoob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could it be because the top mounts and the fork lowering mod.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Indirectly.

With stock upper mount and the lower fork clamped at the factory location, the limit of compression travel is the point at which the damper body runs into the bump stop. When the upper mount is replaced with the Ground Control piece and you shove the damper body farther down into the fork, that limit changes to the point at which the upper control arm runs into the body because you have given the damper more compression travel than it needs (meaning it's not hitting the bump stop).

So, take your pick: run the dampers into the bump stops, or run the control arms into the chassis. As mentioned above, the real problem here is that your spring rates are likely too soft for the ride height of the car, so you should probably look into either using stiffer springs or raising the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicnoob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
could it be because the top mounts and the fork lowering mod.</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you doing BOTH for the front shocks?!

kind of redundant to do both. seems like you really have simply achieved the physical limit of upper control arm travel.

what spring rates?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rawkus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With an extremely modest drop I had problems with the UCA hitting the inner fender area with a camber kit. I would recommend removing the kit and getting an alignment.
Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wasssupppp Dan???

My car was VERY low a few weeks ago (Im sure dan will vouch for this). I have a Skunk2 camber kit and I started getting small dents in the shock tower after driving it that way for about a month. I raised the collars about 1/2", which didnt really affect anything visually....now the UCA's dont hit the shock towers and the ride is much much better.

 

it's 450lbs up front. the dents aren't too bad, compared to the dents i had with the camber kit. i guess the dents won't hurt the body too much.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93allmotorcoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Wasssupppp Dan???

My car was VERY low a few weeks ago (Im sure dan will vouch for this). I have a Skunk2 camber kit and I started getting small dents in the shock tower after driving it that way for about a month. I raised the collars about 1/2", which didnt really affect anything visually....now the UCA's dont hit the shock towers and the ride is much much better. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I have never seen a car as low as his be driven as a daily driver... it is crazy
Dan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicnoob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's 450lbs up front. the dents aren't too bad, compared to the dents i had with the camber kit. i guess the dents won't hurt the body too much.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Try going at least 500 up front if not 550+ The higher the rear rate the harsher the ride, but the rear wheels don't see nearly as much travel as the fronts do so a lower spring rate would suffice here. The only warning I can give about a high front biased setup is that you may get some unpredictable handling at the limits. I was running 500/375 for a day while I was switching out my rates to 500/550 and I had a weird snap oversteer/shuffle when taking turns. Once I put the 550 in teh rear is was more neutral, more predicatble and better overall then 500/375 or the previous 400/375 i was running. Although, I do attribute some of this to running a 22mm rear anti-roll bar. 500/550 is only slightly more harsh to me than 400/375 (I actually am thinking about going slightly higher than 500/550 but its at my tolerable limits as a dual purpose car thats for right now (due to the winter) mostly daily), but i do have spss3 valving so that may help.