The 5th gen is operational
Alright, to recap. I bought a 5th gen from a guy that thought his engine was toast. He broke the crank pulley bolt off and sent the pulley for a ride, he had some "mechanic" try to remove the bolt by welding something onto the broken bolt inside the crank and ended up welding the bolt to the crank itself.
SO, I was able to use the faithful dremel and remove all the weld metal and I drilled through the bolt and removed it. I removed the timing and balancer belt cover, everything looked good, replaced the belts, lined up the pulleys and installed the new pulley and belts and guess what, she runs like a dream. Good compression, no stuttering, seems too good to be true. I didn't pay much for the car so I feel pretty good about it.

Yes I know, they are coming off.
SO, I was able to use the faithful dremel and remove all the weld metal and I drilled through the bolt and removed it. I removed the timing and balancer belt cover, everything looked good, replaced the belts, lined up the pulleys and installed the new pulley and belts and guess what, she runs like a dream. Good compression, no stuttering, seems too good to be true. I didn't pay much for the car so I feel pretty good about it. 
Yes I know, they are coming off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much did you pay for it? just curious.</TD></TR></TABLE>
After purchasing the car and the parts I paid about $1,500.
No lie.
After purchasing the car and the parts I paid about $1,500.
No lie.
I did think about that, but I'm content sticking with it. I figure I will just spend the extra money I would have spent on a "working vehicle", and upgrade this. It is tempting though. Also, my GF would probably kick my *** considering how much she has had to listen to me talk about it over the past few weeks while I was determining how to fix it.
nice deal. i feel you on the gf thing mine would kill me too. but to put some tech in here. what did you use to remove the bolt after you drilled into it?
We used a standard extractor, I believe it was around a 3/8in or so, it has a VERY aggresive left handed thread, you just push it in and start turning, it is part of a tap and die set. It came out with no problem, of course there were a few spots when it drug coming out, but the bolt was not jammed in there by any means. I guess to give the guy a tiny bit of slack, he was in the military and he was getting shipped overseas and needed to get rid of it. But I would like to slap the so called mechanic that tried to weld onto the bolt.
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It has 127k, bone stock, auto unfortunately but like I said, with the money I saved, I can dump it back into performance rather than selling it and then having to buy another car of the same blue book value for 4 times what I paid.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Now can you post a pic of the tail lights after a sledge hammar imposes it's will on them?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hear ya.
Now can you post a pic of the tail lights after a sledge hammar imposes it's will on them?
</TD></TR></TABLE>I hear ya.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dangger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how in hell does the crank pully bolt just break off?
great buy</TD></TR></TABLE>
Faulty bolt, bolt not being installed tight enough. There are a few things that could cause it. I have no idea what caused it in this particular instance.
great buy</TD></TR></TABLE>
Faulty bolt, bolt not being installed tight enough. There are a few things that could cause it. I have no idea what caused it in this particular instance.
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