When I jump the connectors with a paper clip on the passenger kick panel on
the 91 accord EX I get 6 flashes, the pause and 6 flashes.

Code 6 is supposed to be Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT sensor).
I went and purchased both coolant sensors, one on thermostat housing
and the forward one.

Pulled the fuse for Back-Up (7.5 amp) and waited. Disconnected the battery
for 20 minutes and waited...... Went straight to check the error code and
still have a six. Had not even started the car yet - how does it know ?

I really want to get the Check Engine light to show no trouble codes before
starting so I am sure I have a clean slate.

Another thing... when I turn the key to ON before starting, check engine light lights up, goes off (flashes off really) then goes on steady before starting.

I get the feeling that the steady light is also a symptom.
But if the car starts the ECU must be okay - shouldn't it ?

Oh... One More Thing. I know nothing about the history of this car.
My nephew bought it from his cousin and have no idea where it has
been. I am trying to get it to pass smog test.
It starts, it drives. It has a solid check engine light and a solid green S
on all the time on the dashboard.

Any help is appreciated.

 

--Bump--

Okay, several people have looked but not even ONE reply ??
Is this because it is a stupid question ?

I am going to play a sympathy card and see if it helps.

My nephew gets his license in one month, I offered to get this past
smog so he can use it to drive his grandma on errands.

If I can't get the check engine light to go off, then I will either take it to the dealer,
an independent shop, or may have to sell it and get something different.

Anybody got any ideas on why it does not appear to clear codes ?
Is it possible that as soon as I turn the key, before starting, that the code
is going right back in ?

I find it odd that I only have a trouble code 6, it seems there should be more.
Does the system often find second and third codes after clearing out the first one ?

I found the ECU under the floor mat, is there any reason I should work at pulling
this out ?
I read about testing to make suer it is grounded, etc.. But it seems there would
be a different set of problems it that were true.

And last, thank you everyone for helping us out.

 

The light may be telling you that there is a broken wire in the ECT Sensor circuit, you will have to do a continuity test with an ohm meter, no power on. Are you sure you changed the correct two wire ECT sensor. Do you have a Haynes repair manual and an ohm meter (multi meter)?

Do you also have a digital camera to show some pics please.

 

I wondered about the wire and was going to ask how to make sure sensor
wires are not broken in the harness.

I do have an OHM meter. I do have the Haynes manual.
I did replace BOTH sensors, one at thermostat housing and forward one.

The Haynes manual showed me how to test resistance on the sensor and
both the new and old seem to read correctly.

The connector at thermo housing broke off at the wires (very brittle) so
I crimped on some extended leads and a pair of female spade connectors.
Insulated them and plugged these onto the sensor.
Dealer says that this connector is not available and to cut one from a junkyard car.
Either way, was hoping my connectors are okay, would like to test
the leads going to the sensors.

You say to do it with ignition off, okay. What am I looking for ?

And I will take some pictures tonight when I get home.

 

Good deal, ohm meter on, touch the two leads together and adjust the meter to a zero reading, you can hold the two leads together with on hand but do not touch the leads with two hands, if your meter is not adjustable then whatever it says, now equals zero ohms.

Disconnect the wires from the sensor, put one test lead on one wire, look up where the wire goes to (probably ECU), put the other test lead on the far end of the wire and you should get zero (or previous low number) for a reading. You may need some extra wire to extend the length of your test leads, reset meter to zero if possible. NOTE, an adjustable meter that will not go to zero probably has weak batteries.

The meter will be set to the X1 scale ohms or the Greek Omega symbol. Your body has resistance so do not touch both ends that you are testing with your fingers, one end is ok.

Also test from the terminal at the sensor (still disconnected) with one test lead and put the other test lead to ground, you should get an INFINITE reading at the opposite end of the meter scale from zero. All this depends on if you have an analog meter with a swinging needle or a digital meter with LCD readout.

More help if you need it, a very high or Infinite reading will be a broken wire, as long as you are sure you are testing the correct wires on both ends. BEWARE, wire colors may change but the book should be correct.

 

So I disconnected computer under the floor mat and prepared to probe the connector
with a paperclip that was attached to the leads of the analog (needle type) ohm meter.

I kept the meter in the foot well with me and ran speaker wire into the cabin from under the hood.
This way I could connect to both sensor connector leads and switch between them.

I found continuity on my two crimped connectors and also the other forward sensor
connector.

But then I found a THIRD sensor under the distributor. The sensor fell apart when trying
to remove the connector.
This connector has both leads stripped and re-connected by twisting and
covered with electrical tape.
One of the wires has continuity, the other has nothing, and not to ground either.
Too short at the harness to re-strip and crimp.

Trying to keep my spirits up. I am off to the store to replace this sensor also.
What a poor location, hard to get to.

I am looking into simply replacing the under hood harness. Ebay price around $45.

 

Are you able to post pics of all these sensors please, kewl if not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhodes2010 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

But then I found a THIRD sensor under the distributor. The sensor fell apart when trying
to remove the connector.


</TD></TR></TABLE>
That would be the ECT sensor. I'm guessing the other "sensors" you replaced were the fan switches.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhodes2010 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I jump the connectors with a paper clip on the passenger kick panel on
the 91 accord EX I get 6 flashes, the pause and 6 flashes.

Code 6 is supposed to be Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT sensor).
I went and purchased both coolant sensors, one on thermostat housing
and the forward one.

Pulled the fuse for Back-Up (7.5 amp) and waited. Disconnected the battery
for 20 minutes and waited...... Went straight to check the error code and
still have a six. Had not even started the car yet - how does it know ?

I really want to get the Check Engine light to show no trouble codes before
starting so I am sure I have a clean slate.

Another thing... when I turn the key to ON before starting, check engine light lights up, goes off (flashes off really) then goes on steady before starting.

I get the feeling that the steady light is also a symptom.
But if the car starts the ECU must be okay - shouldn't it ?

Oh... One More Thing. I know nothing about the history of this car.
My nephew bought it from his cousin and have no idea where it has
been. I am trying to get it to pass smog test.
It starts, it drives. It has a solid check engine light and a solid green S
on all the time on the dashboard.

Any help is appreciated.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

the 2 sensors you replaced were fan switches if the one was on the thermo houing and the other was on the upper rad hose housing......i know the 2 temp. sending units are located on the side and back of the motor. one is under the distributor area and the other one is in the back near the rear motor mount area ....as for the other things it could be alot of stuff but the sensor your looking for is a 1 wire sensor that is under the distributor the ECT can easily be taken off with a wrench though


Modified by bseriescrxsi at 6:59 PM 11/23/2007

 

Cannot seem to add pictures.
Add Image button only adds HTML code for an image.
Expecting an upload image feature.

Any one care to assist ?

I don't have a webserver so I can't link to images.

I just got back from the store with the two sensors under the distributor.
The single pole one and the two wire one.

Lady at the auto parts store says that normally the replacement sensors should have
the same color as the original sensor,
Can anyone confirm this please ?
One of the sensors removed has grey, another black, and another appears
pink. Should the replacements be the same color ?

One more thing, the check engine light goes off finally. I clear it by pulling
the fuse and it is off when starting then goes to trouble code 6 after 1 or 2
seconds, very quickly, but the point is it is finally off.





Modified by rhodes2010 at 6:41 PM 11/27/2007