Hi i posted a couple of times about my car burning oil.. well I think I found out when it does. So far it seems to happen when I down shift a lot. For the past week I never really down shifted unless I had to (Just go straight to N when stopping for a light) Any idea what would cause this ? valve seals ?

edit- I have a b16a3 motor with 131k on it.

 

watch when you start it up,if it smokes on start up it is most likely the valve seals.if not it is most likely rings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gotk20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">watch when you start it up,if it smokes on start up it is most likely the valve seals.if not it is most likely rings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So when I start it up first time look if blue smoke is coming ? I see white but then its cold outside so I guess that normal. I really hope its not the rings last time I checked it burned 1 quart and its been about 1000k

 

i hate that cuz its hard to tell in the winter since all cars smoke in the winter when they are cold but trust me u should be able to tell the difference between winter smoke and rings smoke

 

O ok cause I do know that it does not smoke when the car is warmed up.

 

How often do you hit vtec? When you hit vtec oil will burn. plus you shouldn't down shift unless you need to it can wear your clutch down

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unit44justin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How often do you hit vtec? When you hit vtec oil will burn. plus you shouldn't down shift unless you need to it can wear your clutch down</TD></TR></TABLE>

I never went into vtec shifted at 4k tops. I never knew downshifting was bad lol..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jit01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I never went into vtec shifted at 4k tops. I never knew downshifting was bad lol.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

downshitfing is bad when its unnecessary...i.e. before stop sign or at a light. its hard on the crank bearings. and if you are burning oil on the downshift then it is valve seals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC_PRODUCTION &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

downshitfing is bad when its unnecessary...i.e. before stop sign or at a light. its hard on the crank bearings. and if you are burning oil on the downshift then it is valve seals.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow never knew that before... O ok I guess I will replace them. All I need to do is replace right ? like for example if it was rings I would have to get it honed etc

 

downshifting isnt to bad if you rev match the motor while downshifting, also in vtec your motor should burn oil.. i know my motor does not....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B_coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">downshifting isnt to bad if you rev match the motor while downshifting, also in vtec your motor should burn oil.. i know my motor does not....</TD></TR></TABLE>

My motor sometimes burns oil in vtec sometimes does not its weird lol.

 

run a leak down test to see if your piston chambers can hold up the pressure


My B16A3 has 247 xxx miles on it and it doesn't burn more than a quart every 3.5k and it does not smoke at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG2Driver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">run a leak down test to see if your piston chambers can hold up the pressure


My B16A3 has 247 xxx miles on it and it doesn't burn more than a quart every 3.5k and it does not smoke at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok so should I do a leakdown test or compression test ?

 

Bump

 

leak down test!

 

Just throw a can of Restore in there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HCivicSi23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just throw a can of Restore in there.

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93EGB18C1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

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Alright... open the can of Restore and pour in the contents when you do your next oil change.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HCivicSi23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Alright... open the can of Restore and pour in the contents when you do your next oil change.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

that'd be putting a bandaid.

OP, do a leakdown.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG2Driver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that'd be putting a bandaid.

OP, do a leakdown.</TD></TR></TABLE>

For 6$ it would stall his problem until he is ready to actually fix it. Theres no need to do any testing. It's the valve seals and the piston rings, the engine has 131 k on it. Higher milage engines burn oil, I burn oil, we all do.

Unless your looking to rebuild your motor, leave it.