I am having problems deciding which manifold to buy..First off, I live in FL, which is pretty hot almost all year. Second, it's my daily driver so a/c is pretty important. I'm planning on making ~400hp on a built b16a running a t3/t4 turbo.. so I think a log-style would hurt me pretty bad. Can anyone recommend a welder that makes an A/C compatible equal length kit for B series? I forgot to mention i'm a cheap *** so if you say peekboost or full-race i'm going to ignore you..

 

Why do you want an equal length so bad? You can make 400~ on a log. What turbo are you going to run?

 

I've got a turbonetics T3/T04e 57 trim (63/60), 44mm wastegate and a stock SR20DET bov

 

You really do get what you pay for.....What i cant figure out is why people want the luxuries of a/c and p/s in a 400whp car but cant shell the money because they are "cheap asses".

 

I don't want a log simply because the turbulence caused by the outside runners hitting the middle two kills the flow, therefore causes a loss of power

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1TurboHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You really do get what you pay for.....What i cant figure out is why people want the luxuries of a/c and p/s in a 400whp car but cant shell the money because they are "cheap asses".

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I don't want power steering.. the reason I want A/C is because i'm in FL! everything i've done thus far has been a budget build.. I paid 100 for a new turbonetics turbo, 100 for a wastegate, free bov, free charge pipes.. and had the motor built about a year ago when I actually HAD money. i'm a broke *** college students now just trying to get by. also, before you say "then you shouldn't be boosting your car", fist yourself

 

You don't really need equal length, as long as it has a good merge collector. Something compact and relatively affordable like a Lovefab Mini-Me AC manifold would work well without being too expensive.

 

thanks for the suggestion rmcdaniels.. is there an accurate dyno testing done to experiment with log vs. equal length power gains/loss ? I know full-race did one but that's not creditable in my opinion due to their business alone.. of course they are going to say their expensive manifolds make 80+ hp

 

An Spoolin Quick 4 AC should also do well for you. However, I just dont understand why you want an equal length for only 400whp. You arent going to be near maxing your turbo so you wont need the extra power for the equal length but if you want to get one that bad then I would go to Spoolin. I wish that I had instead of a different company.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't want a log simply because the turbulence caused by the outside runners hitting the middle two kills the flow, therefore causes a loss of power </TD></TR></TABLE>

then buy a meutek manifold, they have a little air diverter thingy

 

Cody Loveland did a bunch of testing, he's the one that told me that the compact manifolds like the Mini-Me (The Spoolin Quick 4 is another example of this type of manifold) worked just about as well as the larger equal-length ramhorn manifolds. When I switched from an Inline-Pro cast manifold to a Lovefab SST (big ramhorn manifold) I picked up over 50 WHP, same motor, turbo, boost, everything except the manifold and downpipe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cody Loveland did a bunch of testing, he's the one that told me that the compact manifolds like the Mini-Me (The Spoolin Quick 4 is another example of this type of manifold) worked just about as well as the larger equal-length ramhorn manifolds. When I switched from an Inline-Pro cast manifold to a Lovefab SST (big ramhorn manifold) I picked up over 50 WHP, same motor, turbo, boost, everything except the manifold and downpipe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you go up to a bigger downpipe? what was the before and after numbers?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cody Loveland did a bunch of testing, he's the one that told me that the compact manifolds like the Mini-Me (The Spoolin Quick 4 is another example of this type of manifold) worked just about as well as the larger equal-length ramhorn manifolds. When I switched from an Inline-Pro cast manifold to a Lovefab SST (big ramhorn manifold) I picked up over 50 WHP, same motor, turbo, boost, everything except the manifold and downpipe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, it's pretty much the collector that makes the difference.. the log style manifolds create turbulence when the 1st and 4th runners meet with the middle 2. the quick4 and other smaller manifolds with equal collectors would be just as good for anything under 600 hp in my opinion.

did boost come in noticeably faster when you switched to the equal length?

 

Downpipe was 3" after, 2.5" before, so I got a few HP from that, and both into a 3" exhaust. That was years ago, and I don't have any the Inline Pro dyno graphs any more, but ended up making almost 400 WHP out of a B16 -w- a GT28RS on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Downpipe was 3" after, 2.5" before, so I got a few HP from that, and both into a 3" exhaust. That was years ago, and I don't have any the Inline Pro dyno graphs any more, but ended up making almost 400 WHP out of a B16 -w- a GT28RS on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds good ive been eyeing the quick 4 to replace my meutek for a while now, but im still happy with the car and dont feel like building another 3" dp... oneday...

 

Boost built later -w- the ramhorn, which is normal, but once it started building it ramped up faster. Below a certain RPM the log makes more power than the ramhorn, but the ramhorn makes more power later.