I have a built motor that is just finishing up now...The motor is going into a car in race trim...How would I break it in? DO I jsut drop it in and Go?

Help Me Viren, Earl, Geoff, or anybody that has a car that can't be driven on the street.


The reason being is that the car has plastic(clear bags taped on all the windows and windlshield) windows and no title(plates)...


[Modified by Slow_ass_4dr, 8:48 PM 6/23/2002]


[Modified by Slow_ass_4dr, 8:48 PM 6/23/2002]

 

Should be ready to go as built except for seating the rings. I like to run it between 2000-3000 rpm checking for fuel, oil and water leaks. Keep an eye on oil pressure and temp to make sure all is ok. Shut it off after 10 minutes or so. Here's the part you won't like. I let it cool off and pull the cams out and retorque the head.
At this point, the rings may or may not be seated. My next move is to the dyno where the rings usually seat after one or two passes. I think the most important thing is to have the a/f mixture pretty close when starting so as not to wash the rings out with excess fuel. Others?

 

I do the same thing on my car....

 

same thing here, broke in the rings on the dyno

 

we put the motor in the car, take the race car for a couple nice easy laps around the neighborhood (great way to make freinds, not) have the old people stare at us and get a little mad, then put it on the trailer and go to the dyno. It works just fine and by the second or third boosted run when you start zeroing in on the fuel map theyre pretty much seated.

 

Try driving 40mph with no front windshield. And yes, an open exhaust will usually get people looking out their windows. The dyno would be the best place to break things in. A few low boosted runs should suffice.

 

during the honing process, hopefully you went with a lil more aggressive grit hone. This will help rings breakin faster. Use, the cheapeast non detergent oil you can find. Bring her up to 2500-3000rpm hold there for 15 mins. Obviously you need ot have it tuned, so hit up a chassis dyno and make about 3 or 4 clean runs ... change the oil, dont use synthetic yet. Keep running her, more runs you do, the more she seals.

good luck

Greg

 

thanks guys...what kind of oil have you guys been using to seat the rings quicker?

 

I like to run good oil from the start. I spray WD-40 down the plug holes. The WD-40 lubes enough to start it but thin enough to break the rings in quickly. Learned that from TOO. Just use regular oil, nothing expensive or exotic. You're gonna change it in 15 minutes anyway and will never put a load or boost on it. Don't use Rislone to start it. That's just for the last resort.

 

so the 500 mile break in theory is horseshit...or should you do that for the "non" race cars..what if you build a 350whp daily driver..whats the break in there??


[Modified by blkDOHCsol, 4:34 PM 6/24/2002]

 

Everyone has their own opinions about this but the concensus is a 1000 mile break-in. Changing the oil at 500 miles and 1000 miles. Dont keep the rpm constant during the 1000 miles.

Then I believe the rings should see boost during the break in since this is going to be a boosted motor after all. But everyone has their own opinions and others say not to let the rings see boost during 1000 mile break in. Thats it.

 

I agree. It SHOULD see some sort of boost...not alot, just bring it out of vacuum.

 

hey paul, wussup, so your car is finished? when are you dynoing it. I'll be at elite to dyno this friday at 5. stop by if you want
BTW, was that you on thomas ave friday nite?

 

Remember, this thread started as how to break in a race only motor in a race car. I have to rebuild every 25 miles of use anyway.

 

any more ideas on how 2 break in a daily car. humm or other view points,because im going to be starting my car soonish..in the next few weeks.. and was goin2 run her in for 500km's or so... then off to the dyno...chaning oil after the 1st 20km...then again at 500... then onto the dyno.. and of course.. during the 1st 500km reving in lots of different ranges ? yeah or neah ?

Regards James

 

ok...old post that i've revived...

how do you know when the rings have been seated?

have you heard of heat cycling? (you may know it as something else). someone mentioned to me that they start the car...rip it up and down a street til the motor warms up...turns off the car...wait until it fully cools...and do it a couple more times.

 

you know it works with a stock motor!! i have a 86si and when i first got it the egin was not verry tight!! to many miles!!! well it had intake and a straight pipe!!!! i would do the same thing start it up let the idle go down and go out and hot rod it till it got to runing temp then bring it home wait till lil latter in the day it had to be cooled off. and do it again now the motor is a lot tighter and jumps lot better when i give it the gas!!! as befor it was more slugesh good tip least i think so

 

oh wow

 

Easiest way to tell is by vaccum. New rings that haven't seated won't pull much vaccum, say around 12-15inches (say on my recent GSR rebuild for instance, started at 14inches) depending on your piston to wall clearance, finish, and ring type used. After 45 minutes on the motor(and a few heat cycles), it was pulling 20 inches of vaccum, indicating the rings had pretty much seated. You still wanna take it easy the first 100 miles or so, and gradually increase rpm 'zings' as the miles go closer to 100 miles. After that, just change the oil, and let 'er rip. Bearings don't have any seat time, BTW, common misconception.

 

I put the motor together, then I let it idle at 1500-2500rpms for 10 minutes. Make sure it gets to working temp. Then let it cool down a bit..

Start her up again, let it idle for a bit, fully warm up, then take it for a 20 miles ride. Not too much throttle, not too much rpms. When you get back. Change the oil again (non-synthetic). Then just drive it like normal daily driving. 50%+ throttle, >5000 rpms. Drive it like that for 100 miles. Then slowly raise the throttle and rpm zings, for the next 100-200 miles....then let it rip... 100% throttle and as many rpms, as the motor is designed for.

EDIT: I don't believe in those 1000 miles with no throttle, no boost, pussyfooting around break-ins.

Here's a good article on breaking stuff in.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


[Modified by MaxBoost, 7:38 AM 10/23/2002]

 

I'm with you, once the rings are seated, there isn't anything else to really "break in" besides your clutch.

 

What are you all call a "heat cycle"? WHat are you all doing?

Jeramy

 

How much wd-40 do you spray in the cylinder hole and do u let sit for a while before u start it? do you not lube the rings before u pop it in the cylinder walls?

 

Anyone?

Jeramy

 

there are so many opinions and theories on this subject, i don't know which is the best method.

it seems to be all theoretical without any research or evidence to backup any claims of break in method A., is better than break in method B.

someone please enlighten me.