The idle while cold after startup bounces. When i looped the lines on my FITV prior to this it would do the same thing, actually with my new TB i dont even have a FITV ano coolant lines to the TB are vacuum capped. The startup was done at around 38-40 degrees. I remember many people saying that they had issues with this also in the past. And some people said that they never had a problem with the coolant line loop. However from what I remember those people were from the southern states. Im not sure if its a normal thing or if I may have a vacuum leak somewhere (almost impossible because I only have 1 vacuum line and its new). Otherwise the only other false air could be at the base of the IM or where the TB meets the IM.

 

bump

 

did you happen to crack open the bleeder valve for the coolant?

 

no i did not i let it burp itself. Does that influence it ?

 

sounds like a vacuum leak to me

 

is yours bouncing always or just after you hit the gas?

 

after I did the coolant loop on my 5th gen I got a cell and had a bouncing idle as well. so I just put it back. i thought taking the coolant line off stopped the flow of coolant and so it created the cell but I could be wrong.

any feedback to get it to work with odb 2 would be great

 

This should have nothing to do with a CEL. Next time you get one, read it out and figure out exactly what the problem is.

 

ya I'll do the loop and then pull the cell and see what it has to say. thanks

 

well this is with an obd1 ecu. I did it previously on my obd2 and it would idle like that until it warmed up then idle fine. However it did throw an IAC code.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M2B4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is yours bouncing always or just after you hit the gas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Havent driven it yet still fixing a few little things. Just has it idling in my driveway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M2B4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is yours bouncing always or just after you hit the gas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Always

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This should have nothing to do with a CEL. Next time you get one, read it out and figure out exactly what the problem is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

CEL is out. It was something completely different. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelude1897 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you happen to crack open the bleeder valve for the coolant? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why would that cause idle bounce ?

 

Dude, did you block off the FITV?

If you take the coolant lines off, you MUST block it off completely from the TB. Get a piece of gasket paper and make a blockoff.

 

the TB im running doesnt use an FITV at all and i vacuum capped the coolant lines that run through the TB. Its an AEBS ITR 68mm.

 

The coolant line loop is about the dumbest thing I have ever seen someone do,JK. It really does not do anything beneficial though, unless you are in search of a crappy idle.This is the problem with the whole (tuner) scene, too many kids trying to get some MAD TIGHT JDM horesepower for free by rigging up bullshit like this. Build a damn motor that makes REAL POWER and you won't have to resort to these childish (mods).Let the flames commence............

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1979500

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Apex1972 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The coolant line loop is about the dumbest thing I have ever seen someone do,JK. It really does not do anything beneficial though, unless you are in search of a crappy idle.This is the problem with the whole (tuner) scene, too many kids trying to get some MAD TIGHT JDM horesepower for free by rigging up bullshit like this. Build a damn motor that makes REAL POWER and you won't have to resort to these childish (mods).Let the flames commence............</TD></TR></TABLE>

Taking unnecessary heat away from the intake charge is a good idea no matter what. Go to sleep.

 

I agree that a cooler intake temp is a good thing, but is the small amount of coolant going through the throttle body really gonna make your intake air that hot anyway.Also the engine does need to reach a high enough temp so it does not run too rich from being in warm up mode too long. I mean I have the IACV lines bypassed , but the throttle body one just causes that annoying idle, thats why I put mine back, but I have no AC thats why the IACV is not needed. Going back to sleep now.

 

it used to be listed on hondata's website as an option, I believe. And as it says here it is a race only option.

http://www.hondata.com/heatshieldgasket.html

Many ppl have done this, I know alot of old school muscle car guys that have done it. Does it make alot of power ? NO. But will it add alittle bit ? Looking at what its purpose is it should add minimal power. I look at things like this, my car will be driven on weekends and tracked. Why do I need a great cold idle ? Personally idc if it idles like **** till its warm. My mentality has always been if it adds power, then why not. For something thats free and can add alittle bit of power. That little bit of power added to the other LITTLE things can add up.

Before you flame me LOL why dont you actually go read something about making power. Because you obviously dont no what makes it. And btw just because you dont have AC doesnt mean you dont need an IACV.

 

Well I never said I did not have an IACV, I just do not have the coolant lines going through it anymore. I also had the FITV lines bypassed and I could not stand the bad idle. But, you know it is not my car so you can do what you want to it, I just do not see the point in doing something that makes such a small(if any)difference just to see if I get an increase on the butt dyno.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Apex1972 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I never said I did not have an IACV, I just do not have the coolant lines going through it anymore. I also had the FITV lines bypassed and I could not stand the bad idle. But, you know it is not my car so you can do what you want to it, I just do not see the point in doing something that makes such a small(if any)difference just to see if I get an increase on the butt dyno.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your idle bounced because you did the FITV bypass incorrectly. You didn't block the hole...my FITV is gone and my idle is fine as are many other peoples.

 

well I would ask how you did it but, I already know the answer
TOP RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE SCREEN RED LETTERS RIGHT???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Your idle bounced because you did the FITV bypass incorrectly. You didn't block the hole...my FITV is gone and my idle is fine as are many other peoples.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup, my idle was just fine with the hole blocked. Although, without the FITV, it takes some attention to keep her runnin on a cold start when weather is ~35*F. Runs fine once warm. I hook the lines back up in the winter, i get sick of fiddling with the throttle to keep it running on warm up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Apex1972 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well I would ask how you did it but, I already know the answer
TOP RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE SCREEN RED LETTERS RIGHT???</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha AMEN!!

J/K i just stuck a cork in the lower hole in the throttle body to block the hole. I know it's probably ghetto and there's a better way to do it, but this way it can be reversed in a matter of seconds if you change your mind about the bypass. (i switch mine back every winter here in MN)

 

please post a picture of this, I just might want to try it next year when it warms up.if it will idle correctly that is.