Ok i installed my euro r manifold and innovative mounts started it up today and was shocked by the vibration from the mounts. The car started fine idles a little high but i can adjust that. my problem is when i went to drive it i noticed every time i hit the brake pedal all my gauges go very dim and the tach drops down to 0 like it cuts out. then within seconds the temp gauge jumps to red. I bleed the coolant and topped it off. the only grounds i touched were the negative on battery and the ground from vc to mount to frame with the new mount there wasn't a ground spot so i simply went from vc to frame. I took the battery in to have it charged prior to starting it up. any ideas? All i can think of is maybe the vibration is knocking the battery ground loose? as for the coolant I hooked up the coolant lines like the oem manifold which shouldn't be a problem considering everyone agreed you don't even need to hook them up for it to run properly. Could it be the grounding issue the reason why the temp gauge it shooting to the top? The fan didn't kick on, but i don't think it was on long enough for it too. usually takes a lil while. Open to suggestion and ideas thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M2B4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could it be the grounding issue the reason why the temp gauge it shooting to the top?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what it sounds like to me. Figure out the ground.

 

wowwwwwwww iam having the same exact problem with my CL. like same exact.

does your radio cut off when you press the brakes. and do your gauges go hay-wire when you open close the windows or put the blinker on???


Modified by Mr. Hat at 12:43 PM 11/8/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Hat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wowwwwwwww iam having the same exact problem with my CL. like same exact.

does your radio cut off when you press the brakes. and do your gauges go hay-wire when you open close the windows or put the blinker on??? </TD></TR></TABLE>

That sounds like a horid wire job

 

I'm gonna go with, check resistance from the negative terminal to the chassis, vc, transmission case, ecu ground.

Get back to us.

 

i hate to hi-jack this thread.

but i founda loose ground from my valve cover to the body near the ABS and such. just tightened and nothing has changed.

im stumped.

 

Thanks M2b4


Modified by Acidcrakker at 5:04 PM 11/8/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hate to thread jack a thread jacker, but guys go check out my other threads, I need assistance with these issues.

If the transmission is bolted and torqued on can you still move the flywheel if its bolted on improperly.

Also Can someone tell me where the Vtec oil pressure switch and the Vtec Solinoid are located on the Vtec motor </TD></TR></TABLE>

wtf does this have to do with anything related to my thread? go back to your thread and pick up a helms (for h22). read it then search if you cant find anything damn. solenoid and pressure switch are next to t-stat housing off the side on vc. pressure with is the green plug and solenoid if the thing sticking into the head on side near vc. now go back to your thread...unless you can help me

back on topic when checking the resistance lemme remember right thats the ohms setting like measuring continuity? if so i cant pick up any readings...

 

yes, you want Ohms, and when you say you get no reading is it just 0, or is it reading open, or just "1"?

 

ok resistance:
neg - chassis = 1
neg - tranny = 2.9
neg - tstat = 2.7
neg - vc chassis bolt - 126.7


meaning vc to chassis is bad?

 

is the VC to chassis tight? cuz mine are tight and i think thats my problem to.

 

is there supposed to be a metal piece or something on vc for vc ground? i moved things around and im getting 132 ohms. i check the resitance of the wire @ vc and 132 there again...im lost

 

on the chassis side of that v/c ground make sure you have contact to bare metal, get in there with a wire brush or something if you have to.

edit: and just for fun, check the resistance through that ground cable too, just to see if it is corroded inside of the insulation

 

damn i dont have a wire brush anymore...gotta go buy 1. i checked resistance of the cable itself and it was 132 also

 

time to replace that ground then, thats wayyyy to high

 

heres update. im lost....


sanded down to bare metal and resistance is still 132 ish. undid the ground all together. measured resistance from neg to the bolt spot on vc got 11 ohms. measured neg to the bolt spot on chassis near mount got 132. measured neg to bolt spot on shock tower got 132. im lost. only other thing i did during install was remove the egr solenoid and vacuum box thats normally over there also the metal vacuum coupler thing on shock tower. other than that i didnt touch anything on that side. can anyone give me a pic of that area on there car? i wanna see if mabye the egr stuff or that coupler thing was attached to the ground.

edit: and when i test the ground cable when attached to just the vc i get the 11 ohms. so the culprit hasta be the chassis?

 

heres a pic of that area. anyone got any ideas whats causing my chassis to act up on that side. i checked adjacent areas and there good.

 

if it high resistance there then just clean the grounds up, check for any corrosion with the wire, dremel the paint off the ground area.

Check to resistance of the wire itself make sure thats good also.

I wouldnt worry about the cooling problem until you fix that because bad grounds cause all kinds of crazy **** to happen. Things may be fine and its just the poor ground thats causing problems.

 

yea ive been disregarding the cooling problem with this whole situation aswell. hopefully it wont be my cars downfall.

 

well if you have enough coolant and your thermostat works correct. no leaks and nothing is plugged in the coolin system I wouldnt see why there would be a cooling problem. And normally if something fails quickly like that you would notice it.

 

tru tru

so on more of a positive note how do you like the Euro-R. i think thats gonna be my next mod.

o0o and BTW i was gonna get the innovative mounts for my car. good thing i didnt, my one driver side Hasport makes my car vibrate and shake enoguh

 

ok i already cleaned the ground points with drill and wire brush. also i tested the ground wire itself and it only had 11 ohms resistance. im about to run that ground elsewhere and try that...im stumped as to whats causing the mount area and shock tower to have that much resistance. the intake manifold only had like 2.3 ohms and chassis near headlight and cc i got an open (1 ohm) I dont wanna do it but what if i ran a ground from the negative over to that shock tower?


and as for the euro r i cant comment yet havnt driven the car. and the mounts there nice im actually running the "track" version so there a lil more then the regular ones. and i snapped a tranny mount stud so the tranny mount is resting on the chassis right now so im sure thats some the cause for the added vibration.

any info on whats up with my grounds is greatly appreciated. They all worked fine b4 this install.

 

Is there by chance something that has came loose (wiring) under the dash by the brake pedal? It seems wierd to me that it only does it when you apply the brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M2B4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cc i got an open (1 ohm) </TD></TR></TABLE>

just FYI, an "open" as in "open circuit" would be infinite resistance, 1 ohm is just really low, and would indicate a closed circuit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M2B4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i already cleaned the ground points with drill and wire brush. also i tested the ground wire itself and it only had 11 ohms resistance. im about to run that ground elsewhere and try that...im stumped as to whats causing the mount area and shock tower to have that much resistance. the intake manifold only had like 2.3 ohms and chassis near headlight and cc i got an open (1 ohm) I dont wanna do it but what if i ran a ground from the negative over to that shock tower?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's WAAAAAAAAAY too much resistance. You should read something like 0.3 ohms max. I just tested the grounds on my engine (by measuring the resistance between metal parts on the engine and the negative terminal on the battery) and they're all 0.1 to 0.3 ohms. You should be able to connect the DMM to the negative terminal on the battery, and touch just about anything metal on the engine, and you should see 0 ~ 0.3 ohms, give or take.

Is the ground between the transmission case and the chassis good? A friend once left his disconnected, and the engine didn't run for crap. We replaced the ground, and it was like new.