installing coilovers for the ep3 02-03
I agree. If you don't know what your doing best to take it to a shop so it's done right and your wheel won't fall off causing you to crash and kill someone or yourself.
psh. Don't listen to these people and just try to do it.
I am a learn as I go type of person and never really actually know how to do something when I first look at it.
for the front.
-Take off the tire, support the axle/brake assembly with a jack stand so the axle does not fall out of place.
-Remove the three I think 14mm bolts on the top mount.
-Take off the two I think 19mm bolts? I am not sure that hold the strut assembly to the a arm, or brake assembly (what ever you call it).
-Also take the bracket that holds the brake line to the strut off before you go pulling it out.
I can knock it out on a dc5/ep3 in an 90 minutes without air tools. There may be some bolts or something I forgot to mention but that is pretty much it.
I am a learn as I go type of person and never really actually know how to do something when I first look at it.
for the front.
-Take off the tire, support the axle/brake assembly with a jack stand so the axle does not fall out of place.
-Remove the three I think 14mm bolts on the top mount.
-Take off the two I think 19mm bolts? I am not sure that hold the strut assembly to the a arm, or brake assembly (what ever you call it).
-Also take the bracket that holds the brake line to the strut off before you go pulling it out.
I can knock it out on a dc5/ep3 in an 90 minutes without air tools. There may be some bolts or something I forgot to mention but that is pretty much it.
I agree about DIY, but when you seem as clueless as the OP--I say let a shop do it. You could really screw up the front CV joints if you don't knwo what you are doing.
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the only thing is that i dont want to let the shop do it because i will probably pay around 200 for them to do it so expletive them i rather save for something else
you forgot about the tie-rod ends. you need to pop those off with a 17mm or something like that, then use a hammer with a pos bolt on the end of the tie-rod end to knock it loose. if you have a fork hammer use that instead.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree about DIY, but when you seem as clueless as the OP--I say let a shop do it. You could really screw up the front CV joints if you don't knwo what you are doing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Worried about screwing what up? Popping the ball joints out? I think anyone can rent the tool from autozone and figure it out. I never used one before until I rented it, looked at it, and poped them out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WhiteOnRice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^You're going to offer him torque specs too? It sounds like he had no idea what the install included. I rarely tell someone to go to the shop but this guy probably should.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no one needs tq specs. I have yet to tq anything I do down and going on 4 years nothing has ever come loose. The only time I tq'ed something down was for my timing belt.
Worried about screwing what up? Popping the ball joints out? I think anyone can rent the tool from autozone and figure it out. I never used one before until I rented it, looked at it, and poped them out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WhiteOnRice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^You're going to offer him torque specs too? It sounds like he had no idea what the install included. I rarely tell someone to go to the shop but this guy probably should.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no one needs tq specs. I have yet to tq anything I do down and going on 4 years nothing has ever come loose. The only time I tq'ed something down was for my timing belt.
It's always best to torque to the right spec. Why do you think they have them? Of course you aren't going to have anything come loose because most improperly torqued bolts are overtorqued.
Anyways, what tools do you have on hand wishbear? Be careful with the outer cv joint or you'll have a big headache.
Anyways, what tools do you have on hand wishbear? Be careful with the outer cv joint or you'll have a big headache.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WhiteOnRice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^You're going to offer him torque specs too? It sounds like he had no idea what the install included. I rarely tell someone to go to the shop but this guy probably should.</TD></TR></TABLE>ur a idiot... u think a shop will torque the bolts down to the right specs???
hell no they will just slam the bolts down with there 1/2inch and 3/8inch air guns and call it a day....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wishbear »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you know what you need to take off becide the wheels?</TD></TR></TABLE>
look man if u realy don't know what ur doing or have a good mechanical sence of mind where u can just look at ur car parts and say... hey i just need to take this and that off and put this back in and im done then maybe u shouldn't try somthing like suspension first...
just call around and take it to a shop that will not butt rape you in pricing... i would say no more then 300 for labor with aligment included.... and bring ur own coilovers...
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