do you have to remove the driver side motor mount? how easy/hard is the install never done it on an inline motor before.....basic hand tools ok or do i need something else? step by step would be great trying to learn this honda game lol

 

Yes you do. When I do this I like to use an engine lift to hold the engine. You could probably also use a jack with wood between it and the oil pan as well. The job isn't that hard, just have to be patient cause there isn't that much room.

 

get an airgun if you can, youll need it for the crank pulley bolt.

also, double and triple check the timing belt on the install. mine is off by a tooth or so i think and it wont start now.

 

how do you do this without messing up the timing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMeg95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you do this without messing up the timing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

make sure everything is set at top dead center before putting on the new timing belt. There is marks on both cam gears and on the crank pulley. It's ultra important so make sure you have it right.

 

There is actually a special service tool that locks the cams together, and while it is not necessary, it really makes the job easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91DA9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is actually a special service tool that locks the cams together, and while it is not necessary, it really makes the job easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used some drill bits, i forget what size though

 

i used vice grips for my cam gears(no i didnt put them on there tight, i know they can crack) i changed my belt(including the water pump, dont forget one) fairly quickly. maybe 2 hours only cuz it was at my tech school and i constantly had guys coming up asking about the car. but if you know what ur doin and got instructions or something, it shudnt be more than an hour and a half. if you goin in blind. prally 4 hours

 

Took me about 5 hours the first time I changed mine, but only because it was my first time doing it, and also I ended up flushing the coolant since I was replacing the water pump anyway.

 

take off all the belts for p/s, alternator, and a/c. take off ur cruise control unit if u got one. jack up the motor like they said and undo the motor mount. then take off all the timing covers. take off your driver side wheel and get an impact and get to pumping on the crank pulley, then start cursing out loud cuz the damn thing wont come off. then keep on. once the pulley is off please be sure you dont lose your crank key. its a small piece of metal no bigger than a tic-tac. then get the specialty tool or watever ur going to use and turn the crank where the cam are sitting lined up with the marks on the side of the head and the gears "UP" marks are straight up. then use the tool or vices or drill bits and hold the cam gears still. then undo the tensioner and take off your belt( or in my case what was left of it) then change your water pump, i think it was 5-6 bolts holding it in. you will have fun taking it out. once thats done and said, set the crank and the colored mark on the crank gear to the little arrow on the block wall. try to keep that still and have fun putting the belt back on. i recommend the last thing you put the belt on is the exhaust cam gear. then once thats on give the crank 4-6 good rotations and check the timing to see if its still good. if all is well, reinstall everything in reverse order. and dont forget that you must put that crank key back in there or you arent going anywhere!

 

What brand is the oem timing belt for a b18a1?

 

A trick is to remove the torque mount, take off all accesory belts, hang the new ones on the torque mount stud (the one that comes off the AC bracket) and then reinstall the torque mount.

No jack or lift necessary. When you remove the driver upper mount, the torque mount will hold the engine solid. **you may initially need a jack. To remove the torque mount, you need to drop the engine down a bit. Sometimes this can be done by loosening the driver side mount studs enough to drop the engine 1-2". Otherwise, support it with a jack while the 2 mounts are both off. Then put the torque mount back together and remove the jack.

This is assuming you're changing accesory belts. If not...then there's no reason to remove the torque mount.