I only have problems when its below 45 degrees out. I have no clue what could cause this. Its done it since the swap was done last december. please help. thanks BTW its a 89 civic std hatch. All work was done by first state motorsports.

 

anyone need help

 

Stock intake manifold? Is the FITV under the throttle body hooked up?

Ive had trouble in cold weather with that stuff unhooked.

 

crankshaft frozen happened to me in Alaska.

 

check your ECT sensor. Also, when you do get it to start, does it run rough? If so, your distributor is going kanzas.

 

start simple,have the battery checked at autozone for free.

also does it even crank?

 

yes it cranks and when it starts it runs really rough until it gets warm(It wont run on its own until warm). can i get a pic of the ect and the fitv hooked up. How can i check if there bad. Yes its a stock intae manifold. Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civic89stdB16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes it cranks and when it starts it runs really rough until it gets warm(It wont run on its own until warm). can i get a pic of the ect and the fitv hooked up. How can i check if there bad. Yes its a stock intae manifold. Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Search. There are guides for both on here and elsewhere. Common problem.

Bad wiring could do it too, although this is less likely. Bad solder joints can get brittle in the cold, and come loose.

 

please some pics of the fitv and the ect sensors. thanks

 

the ect is ok when i pull the plug off when running it boggs. I do the same with the tps sensor and nothing happens. could it be the tps. Where is the fitv at. please i need a pics. than ks

 

ECT sensor is located just under the dirstributor. Just because you unplug it and the car bogs, it does not mean it's ok. Operation of this sensor and AIT sensor depends on ambient temp.
Just hook the DVOM black lead to vehicle ground and the DVOM red lead to the
sensor input voltage wire at the sensor. There is really no need to worry about
which wire is the correct wire. One wire is a ground and the other wire is the input
voltage wire. If the first wire you check is approximately 0v, it is the other wire,
just that simple.
When the car is checked cold, the sensor should be fairly high (2.5-4.5 volts) depending on the ambient temperature (see table just below). Another
quick check for ECT and IAT sensors is to see if they read the same when the
car is cold. Remember the two thermistors have the same temperature/resistance
curve and will be at the same temperature when the car is cold.

ECT sensor Volt vs Ambient Temp (F)
Temp_Volts__Temp__Volts
0____4.70____110__2.00
10 4.50 120 1.74
20 4.29 130 1.52
30 4.10 140 1.33
40 3.86 150 1.15
50 3.61 160 1.00
60 3.35 170 .88
70 3.08 180 .74
80 2.81 190 .64
90 2.50 200 .55
100 2.26 210 .47


The only ECT/IAT sensor test procedure covered in the factory service manual is
the resistance test. The sensor’s resistance changes proportionately to its temperature. Table below gives the resistance values at various temperatures.
The disadvantage to this procedure is that the sensor cannot be checked
“live”. You have to unplug the sensor to check its resistance, which will set a
DTC if the car is running. It is also somewhat difficult to hold two probes on the
sensor’s terminals. If you are testing this sensor while it is on the car, the voltage test is much easier to do and more effective.

And here is what the resistance should be for ECT and IAT sensors.
Temperature(F)_Resistance (ohms)
0____________15,000
32 5,000
68 3,000
104 1,000
140 500
176 400
212 250


Good luck.

 

thanks for the info will check it later today.

 

If you crank it will it eventually turn over??
Mine did that but it cranked and eventually tuened over. ran real ruff and i had to hold the throttle down till it warmed up.
It was my EACV

 

thanks