I was changing out my springs the other week. As I was taking out the LCA bolt(the one where the Shock and LCA meet) I hear it snap. Now it just keeps turning and well not come out. Does anyone have any idea how to get it out.

 

"Your search for LCA bolt returned 131 results"

A quick archive search should get your answers.

 

It's such a pain in the ***. You probably will have to get a new LCA.

 

if you can get a air chisel and hit it real good on the nut, the nut will come off and you can just replace it with a new bolt and nut

 

Get the omnipower titanium rear lca bolt kit so you dont have that problem ever again. and it saves 1/2 pound.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omniman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get the omnipower titanium rear lca bolt kit so you dont have that problem ever again. and it saves 1/2 pound.

[img]https://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m160/omnipowerusa/TitaniumBoltDsportpics003.jpg[img]</TD></TR></TABLE>

ORLY?

 

Order new light weight LCA's and new bolts.
Then put antisieze on the middle of the bolt and it wont happen again.

I've broken about 5 or 6 of those. i fucken hate em

 

&lt;-- never broken an LCA bolt even with taking suspension apart numerous times

I've always used an impact wrench, though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">&lt;-- never broken an LCA bolt even with taking suspension apart numerous times

I've always used an impact wrench, though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Breaker bars are breaker bars for a reason.

I've yet to do mine and I dread doing it this weekend. '91 with rusty quarters = seized bolts. Thought PB outta soften it up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFbomb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Order new light weight LCA's and new bolts.
Then put antisieze on the middle of the bolt and it wont happen again.

I've broken about 5 or 6 of those. i fucken hate em</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or just use antisieze on stock bolts and alleviate the problem with out expensive bolts!


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omniman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get the omnipower titanium rear lca bolt kit so you dont have that problem ever again. and it saves 1/2 pound.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Does brittle TI do well as suspension bolts without extensive re-engineering or size increases? What equivalent "grade" are those lightweight bolts?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DavidR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Or just use antisieze on stock bolts and alleviate the problem with out expensive bolts!
Does brittle TI do well as suspension bolts without extensive re-engineering or size increases? What equivalent "grade" are those lightweight bolts? </TD></TR></TABLE>

The word "brittle" wouldn't define any characteristic of our titanium bolts. Titanium has nearly twice the modulous of elasticity of steel. Our titanium bolts are rated at SAE grade 9+, due in part to the excellent quality material we use and a 9 hour multi stage heat treatment. The tensile strength and hardness is verified for each bar of material in 6 inch increments prior to manufacturing. This ensures a consistently strong bolt.

DavidR trying to discredit a competitors product, shame on you. This is a technical forum not a haven for hateful critics and jealous competitors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omniman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The word "brittle" wouldn't define any characteristic of our titanium bolts. Titanium has nearly twice the modulous of elasticity of steel. Our titanium bolts are rated at SAE grade 9+, due in part to the excellent quality material we use and a 9 hour multi stage heat treatment. The tensile strength and hardness is verified for each bar of material in 6 inch increments prior to manufacturing. This ensures a consistently strong bolt.

DavidR trying to discredit a competitors product, shame on you. This is a technical forum not a haven for hateful critics and jealous competitors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh no, this isn't related to any kind of business question, I was wondering these items myself. Do you think its OK to use a grade 9 when Honda uses a grade 10? Ti by its very nature is more brittle than hardened steel, so in comparison, brittle fits in my use of it above. It is also more likely to sheer off, which is exactly which kind of stress these bolts face.





Modified by DavidR at 10:59 AM 11/11/2007


Modified by DavidR at 11:04 AM 11/11/2007

 

junk yard my firend

 

If it snapped, hold the end with some vice grips then drill into it and use an easy out, once you get one half out, the other half can be smacked out with a thinner but longer bolt.

 

I have stock LCA but i won't mind getting aftermarket one's (skunk2, blox, etc) but i have Kyb agx shocks so that would mean i would also have to get a new shock?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it snapped, hold the end with some vice grips then drill into it and use an easy out, once you get one half out, the other half can be smacked out with a thinner but longer bolt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That depends on how/where it breaks. I usually advise against using stud extractors on rust-seized bolts, because they are brittle and undersized and so tend to snap off easily, which only results in a much more difficult time drilling the rest of the bolt out. There are few scenarios in which an extractor will work correctly.

In the case of lower control arm bolts, it's usually the head of the bolt that shears off, leaving the rest of the stud seized to the inner sleeve of the bushing. This would be a bad time to use a stud extractor.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UrVtecIsLoud &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have stock LCA but i won't mind getting aftermarket one's (skunk2, blox, etc) but i have Kyb agx shocks so that would mean i would also have to get a new shock?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No.