ASR question
If i were to install my ASR brace with my stock 14mm sway bar (95integra), and later on decided to swap to 22/23mm, will the mounting points for the d-brackets be different?
I already have a good amount of oversteer and dont really need more. I just want the brace
I already have a good amount of oversteer and dont really need more. I just want the brace
how do you have "a good amount" of oversteer? tha mounting points for tha d brackets will not be different cause tha asr brace is designed for tha 22/23mm sway bars. someone correct me cause i think im wrong but i dont think you can install your stock sway on tha brace?
good amount of oversteer?
try running 10k springs and matched dampers in the rear being completely gutted running on 12lb rims.
I can also throttle lift and if need be, use brakes in the turn to create oversteer
So the brace is predrilled already for 22/23 brackets? I was under the assumption that i had to drill the holes.
try running 10k springs and matched dampers in the rear being completely gutted running on 12lb rims.
I can also throttle lift and if need be, use brakes in the turn to create oversteer
So the brace is predrilled already for 22/23 brackets? I was under the assumption that i had to drill the holes.
umm yup it was designed for those sway bars. but you will have to drill out tha threads on a couple of holes on your chassis. heres directions for your installation
http://www.passwordjdm.com/Ins...G.pdf
http://www.passwordjdm.com/Ins...G.pdf
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
The point of the ASR brace is to reinforce the chassis to run a larger sway bar.
If your spring rates are high such that a large rear bar is not needed, then the ASR brace is not needed, either.
Really you don't need to add anything in the back, unless you just want some "bling" which of course would be added weight. You should probably just add the Comptech tie bar that mounts similar to the factory ITR bar, if that's still available.
If your spring rates are high such that a large rear bar is not needed, then the ASR brace is not needed, either.
Really you don't need to add anything in the back, unless you just want some "bling" which of course would be added weight. You should probably just add the Comptech tie bar that mounts similar to the factory ITR bar, if that's still available.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RaceMyGhost »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good amount of oversteer?
try running 10k springs and matched dampers in the rear being completely gutted running on 12lb rims.
I can also throttle lift and if need be, use brakes in the turn to create oversteer
So the brace is predrilled already for 22/23 brackets? I was under the assumption that i had to drill the holes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like you have an alignment issue
try running 10k springs and matched dampers in the rear being completely gutted running on 12lb rims.
I can also throttle lift and if need be, use brakes in the turn to create oversteer
So the brace is predrilled already for 22/23 brackets? I was under the assumption that i had to drill the holes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like you have an alignment issue
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Thanks guys for the input. Looks like a normal solid tie-bar will just have to do.
As far as alignment, nothing is wrong with my alignment. The guy i take my car to also races on the track, so i have him dial in the alignment specs (camber, toe). My rear end does NOT break loose. All i said is i can make it break loose IF need be. lol
As far as alignment, nothing is wrong with my alignment. The guy i take my car to also races on the track, so i have him dial in the alignment specs (camber, toe). My rear end does NOT break loose. All i said is i can make it break loose IF need be. lol
Based on your description it sounded like your car's set up had a good amount of inherent oversteer, but I think you mean you can easily induce oversteer with throttle lift or braking through a corner.
Unless the spring rate on the back is (somewhat to significantly) higher than the front, you're running higher rear tire pressures, toe-out in the rear or you have a particularly large rear sway bar, you don't have oversteer.
edit: I noticed that in another thread you state that you have 12kg/mm up front so unless your alignment is toeing out in the rear, your car is not set up for oversteer but rather understeer.
Unless the spring rate on the back is (somewhat to significantly) higher than the front, you're running higher rear tire pressures, toe-out in the rear or you have a particularly large rear sway bar, you don't have oversteer.
edit: I noticed that in another thread you state that you have 12kg/mm up front so unless your alignment is toeing out in the rear, your car is not set up for oversteer but rather understeer.
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