hello all,

i got a 99 accord 2.3l 4cyl vtec,
i am hearing some valve clicking from my head, not so much on the #1 cylinder but more #2 & #3.

i went ahead and began adjusting my valves (when the engine is cold of course) and made sure they are to factory spec, i first started with shooting for the lower end of the spec (intake- .009-.011 and exhaust- .0011-.0013 i believe) and put it all together and it just ran rougher than before.

the second time around i adjusted all of them again to the middle of those specs (intake-.010 and exhaust- .012) and it was just louder than orginally, but quieter than the first adjustement.


anybody have any ideas on what i could do, or what is wrong?

 

seems to happen alot ive heard, i have the f23 too and when i did it its not as loud, but someone posted a tread last week about putting the guage inbetween and locking it down to the gauge just not too tight where you cant pull it out, something like that and seemed to work good, may want to try that.

 

yeah i read that thread too, cause that one was really recent too, it said like lock it onto the feeler gauge into it and turn it back like 1/16 or 1/10 turn back and pull it out after you tighten it?

thats what i tried the first time around and once i put it back together, wow did it run rough as hell,

so i tried it again, and loosened it up a lot to where there was a "drag" on the feeler gauge and it quieted it down from the first time, but it was still ticking, so im wondering if i should adjust it more towards the higher end of the spec or not?

more opinions are needed cause i kinda need a car pretty bad! thanks guys!

 

when I did my 94 accord it was loud for about a few hundred miles when engine was cold but when it warmed up, it was fine.

also the F motor is known to have some issues with excessive cam journal wear that will result in noisy vales for #2 cylander

 

really? excessive cam journal wear? i have never heard that, is the fix just a new cam in itself? or a regrind or something?

thats wierd, so basically what im understanding from comments from you guys is it very well could be one of two things:

1. they are possibly adjusted right, or when they are, it could quiet down after a few 100 miles (if i do run it and its loud right now, is there risk of bending a valve or something?)

2. it could very well be a worn down cam journal somehow and may need a new cam or regrind?

let me know if im right on some of these things, i appreciate all your responses!

 

the fix is to do nothing since it dosen't affect the performance of the engine or affect it's life. it's just a noise issue

 

a noise issue? isnt the clicking noise the valve hitting the piston? wouldn't that bend a valve? or ruin the piston?

or is it the rocker arm hitting the stem of the piston?

 

no way for the valves to hit the piston unless

timing belt breaks

timing is so far off but car won't run for crap if it even starts

 

i figured that about the timing belt, but then what is the physical clicking noise of the head then?

 

I have a 86 accord that i adjusted the valves on and it seemed to get louder also.
After studying the source of the noise,it turnrd out to be the fuel injectors clicking.
You can stand next to the car and hear the clicking real good.Once the engine warms up the clicking stops.
Mark

 

welll i appreciate all of your guys inputs, i will go ahead and try again to readjust the valves and make sure it is in the middle of the specs, and make sure one size up does not fit, and drive it around for a little while, let it warm up and see what happens

ill let ya know!

 

so i bought a 26 piece feeler gauge so i get it more closer to the middle of the specs, .012 for the exhaust and .010 for the intake, and i used the 'go no go' technique to make sure the next size up does not fit.

i put it all together and it is still clicking......

im thinking that there is an issue with there being low oil before, and i just need to drive it around for a little bit to see if it will quiet down after a while, after there is more oil flow through the head, but ill let you know

 

haha i shouldn't have included that, but that is the right spec, im positive,

i did adjust it to the lower spec the first time and it ran rough as hell, but i could have adjusted it too low because i didn't have the right feeler gauge, i only had the one above the lowest spec, so i tightened it down tight on the step above the lowest,

i do have the right feeler gauge right now, so i could try it again idk,

 

would a bad head gasket, or say cracked head have anything to do with the valves or valvetrain system being noisy?

cause i just found out today, that it is one of those so i just thought id ask