finally pics of my car
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 49
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From: Derby, KS, USA
finally pics of my car
I have been a user for a few months and just learning about the cars and what to do. I was with the family at a park today and on the way back to the car I snapped a couple of pics. Here she is.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Derby, KS, USA
no idea. Really looking into a d15b7 which is what I have in it now and just rebuilding it, studding the head and puting a small turbo. I dunno. Im open to all inputs. Tell me. I know I have used the search button. I was just putting some pics of the car to show you what I looks like.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Re: (93whtlx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93whtlx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you just lost me on the whole xyz thing bud. If you explain better i might be able to understand. </TD></TR></TABLE>
D16Z6 = 1.6L VTEC SOHC from 92-95 Si (civic or del sol) or 95 EX.
D16Y8 = 1.6L VTEC SOHC from 96-00 civic EX. Little larger in CC. More compression.
If you're going to turbo it anyway, it's pointless to swap in the Y8 or Z6. However, the Y8 or Z6 transmissions are nicer than the DX/LX/CX, etc.
I would never turbo it. By the time you're done doing it right (after blowing up a few of these motors, parts, tuning, etc etc), You could have just bought a B series and had a quick car that retains factory reliability and driveability. Just my opinion, though.
D16Z6 = 1.6L VTEC SOHC from 92-95 Si (civic or del sol) or 95 EX.
D16Y8 = 1.6L VTEC SOHC from 96-00 civic EX. Little larger in CC. More compression.
If you're going to turbo it anyway, it's pointless to swap in the Y8 or Z6. However, the Y8 or Z6 transmissions are nicer than the DX/LX/CX, etc.
I would never turbo it. By the time you're done doing it right (after blowing up a few of these motors, parts, tuning, etc etc), You could have just bought a B series and had a quick car that retains factory reliability and driveability. Just my opinion, though.
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H-T White Ops
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 17,603
Likes: 22
From: USA
Re: (93whtlx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93whtlx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you just lost me on the whole xyz thing bud. If you explain better i might be able to understand. </TD></TR></TABLE>
D16Z6 = 1.6L SOHC VTEC I4 engine that came in '92-'95 Civic EX and '92-'95 Civic Si and '93-'95 del Sol Si. 125 hp / 104 lb-ft tq, OBDI.
D16Y8 = 1.6L SOHC VTEC I4 engine that came in '96-'00 Civic EX and '96-'97 del Sol Si. 127 hp / 107 lb-ft tq, OBDII
OBD = On Board Diagnostics.
D16Z6 = 1.6L SOHC VTEC I4 engine that came in '92-'95 Civic EX and '92-'95 Civic Si and '93-'95 del Sol Si. 125 hp / 104 lb-ft tq, OBDI.
D16Y8 = 1.6L SOHC VTEC I4 engine that came in '96-'00 Civic EX and '96-'97 del Sol Si. 127 hp / 107 lb-ft tq, OBDII
OBD = On Board Diagnostics.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 7,295
Likes: 0
From: boostinds, WI, USA
Re: (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would never turbo it. By the time you're done doing it right (after blowing up a few of these motors, parts, tuning, etc etc), You could have just bought a B series and had a quick car that retains factory reliability and driveability. Just my opinion, though. </TD></TR></TABLE>
probably one of the dumber things ive read in a few days on here....
do it right, you only do it once...
dont bolt everything on, through your base mapped ecu in and go beat the **** out of your car, then you will be going through motors and wasting time
how ever tuning your car/setup and using qauilty parts helps
i pieced my setup together for 1400, and for what i paid and my WHP i cant swap any honda motor with those results...
I would never turbo it. By the time you're done doing it right (after blowing up a few of these motors, parts, tuning, etc etc), You could have just bought a B series and had a quick car that retains factory reliability and driveability. Just my opinion, though. </TD></TR></TABLE>
probably one of the dumber things ive read in a few days on here....
do it right, you only do it once...
dont bolt everything on, through your base mapped ecu in and go beat the **** out of your car, then you will be going through motors and wasting time
how ever tuning your car/setup and using qauilty parts helps
i pieced my setup together for 1400, and for what i paid and my WHP i cant swap any honda motor with those results...
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Re: (Turbo_y8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo_y8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
probably one of the dumber things ive read in a few days on here....
do it right, you only do it once...
dont bolt everything on, through your base mapped ecu in and go beat the **** out of your car, then you will be going through motors and wasting time
how ever tuning your car/setup and using qauilty parts helps
i pieced my setup together for 1400, and for what i paid and my WHP i cant swap any honda motor with those results...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Remember when I said "factory reliability". Good luck with that on your $1400 setup.
MAYBE if you do the labor by yourself, buy mostly used parts, and have hookups on tuning, you can do a halfway decent setup for $1400.
Considering a good tune might cost anywhere from $300-500, that leaves you around 1100-900 for parts. A used NON BALL BEARING turbo will be another $200- $500 or so for one in decent shape. Leaving you $400-900 for injectors, engine management, downpipe, manifold, gaskets, hardware, lines, etc. etc. etc.
At that point, I still would never consider that setup RELIABLE. But then again, your definition of reliability might be totally different.
Ghetto turbo setups are NEVER reliable. I've seen a lot of "under $2k" setups around here. The cars are always in horrible running condition....if they're ever even in running condition. Then a month later, something breaks or blows up.
probably one of the dumber things ive read in a few days on here....
do it right, you only do it once...
dont bolt everything on, through your base mapped ecu in and go beat the **** out of your car, then you will be going through motors and wasting time
how ever tuning your car/setup and using qauilty parts helps
i pieced my setup together for 1400, and for what i paid and my WHP i cant swap any honda motor with those results...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Remember when I said "factory reliability". Good luck with that on your $1400 setup.
MAYBE if you do the labor by yourself, buy mostly used parts, and have hookups on tuning, you can do a halfway decent setup for $1400.
Considering a good tune might cost anywhere from $300-500, that leaves you around 1100-900 for parts. A used NON BALL BEARING turbo will be another $200- $500 or so for one in decent shape. Leaving you $400-900 for injectors, engine management, downpipe, manifold, gaskets, hardware, lines, etc. etc. etc.
At that point, I still would never consider that setup RELIABLE. But then again, your definition of reliability might be totally different.
Ghetto turbo setups are NEVER reliable. I've seen a lot of "under $2k" setups around here. The cars are always in horrible running condition....if they're ever even in running condition. Then a month later, something breaks or blows up.
Re: (NOFX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you're not longer a trial member, you should post these in the Appearance / Cosmetic section.</TD></TR></TABLE> 
Yeah the EX/SI tranny is pretty nice, no aluminum forks and the d16z6 is great for boosting.
Yeah the EX/SI tranny is pretty nice, no aluminum forks and the d16z6 is great for boosting.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 7,295
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From: boostinds, WI, USA
Re: (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Remember when I said "factory reliability". Good luck with that on your $1400 setup.
MAYBE if you do the labor by yourself, buy mostly used parts, and have hookups on tuning, you can do a halfway decent setup for $1400.
Considering a good tune might cost anywhere from $300-500, that leaves you around 1100-900 for parts. A used NON BALL BEARING turbo will be another $200- $500 or so for one in decent shape. Leaving you $400-900 for injectors, engine management, downpipe, manifold, gaskets, hardware, lines, etc. etc. etc.
At that point, I still would never consider that setup RELIABLE. But then again, your definition of reliability might be totally different.
Ghetto turbo setups are NEVER reliable. I've seen a lot of "under $2k" setups around here. The cars are always in horrible running condition....if they're ever even in running condition. Then a month later, something breaks or blows up. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ive got 20k on my setup, no problems
i bought all new parts, some i bought from other people, but still new, i dont need a ball bearing turbo on my setup, i already see full boost buy 3100rpms. the amount i listed was tuned 180 for the dyno tune, and a case of beer and lunch(wings and beer) for the street tune.
even with that said you could spend 2500 on your defition of a legit kit and still make more power than a swap for 2500 is all im saying.
Remember when I said "factory reliability". Good luck with that on your $1400 setup.
MAYBE if you do the labor by yourself, buy mostly used parts, and have hookups on tuning, you can do a halfway decent setup for $1400.
Considering a good tune might cost anywhere from $300-500, that leaves you around 1100-900 for parts. A used NON BALL BEARING turbo will be another $200- $500 or so for one in decent shape. Leaving you $400-900 for injectors, engine management, downpipe, manifold, gaskets, hardware, lines, etc. etc. etc.
At that point, I still would never consider that setup RELIABLE. But then again, your definition of reliability might be totally different.
Ghetto turbo setups are NEVER reliable. I've seen a lot of "under $2k" setups around here. The cars are always in horrible running condition....if they're ever even in running condition. Then a month later, something breaks or blows up. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ive got 20k on my setup, no problems
i bought all new parts, some i bought from other people, but still new, i dont need a ball bearing turbo on my setup, i already see full boost buy 3100rpms. the amount i listed was tuned 180 for the dyno tune, and a case of beer and lunch(wings and beer) for the street tune.
even with that said you could spend 2500 on your defition of a legit kit and still make more power than a swap for 2500 is all im saying.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 380
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Re: (NOFX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
D16Z6 = 1.6L SOHC VTEC I4 engine that came in '92-'95 Civic EX and '92-'95 Civic Si and '93-'95 del Sol Si. 125 hp / 104 lb-ft tq, OBDI.
D16Y8 = 1.6L SOHC VTEC I4 engine that came in '96-'00 Civic EX and '96-'97 del Sol Si. 127 hp / 107 lb-ft tq, OBDII
OBD = On Board Diagnostics.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So what came in the 96-00 non-EX or Si.
I thought it was still a 1.6L just with longer tranny and no vtec.
D16Z6 = 1.6L SOHC VTEC I4 engine that came in '92-'95 Civic EX and '92-'95 Civic Si and '93-'95 del Sol Si. 125 hp / 104 lb-ft tq, OBDI.
D16Y8 = 1.6L SOHC VTEC I4 engine that came in '96-'00 Civic EX and '96-'97 del Sol Si. 127 hp / 107 lb-ft tq, OBDII
OBD = On Board Diagnostics.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So what came in the 96-00 non-EX or Si.
I thought it was still a 1.6L just with longer tranny and no vtec.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,281
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From: WORKING for MY stuff in, CA, United States
B serious is the most anti-boost person I've ever heard of. This isn't an insult...its just an observation, so don't come bashing me for it. I understand your concerns, but there are, in fact, many people boosting reliably and for a decent price. My suspicion is that you encountered some kind of issue in your car-modifying life that made you steer clear of turbos and become completely NA biased. Yes, N/A setups will generally be more reliable, but that does not mean that turbo setups can not be reliable. Just my .02
To the OP:
Do not let B serious steer you away from going with a turbo. That is the road more than half of us go, and if done right there should be no reliability problem. In the end, its your choice.
To the OP:
Do not let B serious steer you away from going with a turbo. That is the road more than half of us go, and if done right there should be no reliability problem. In the end, its your choice.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 7,295
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From: boostinds, WI, USA
Re: finally pics of my car (bobalee)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bobalee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I vag mash everyday </TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Re: (Turbo_y8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo_y8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
even with that said you could spend 2500 on your defition of a legit kit and still make more power than a swap for 2500 is all im saying.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Reliability, quality, neatness, and consistency are my top priorities. Not speed. I understand that some people just want to go fast. Honestly, if I were to do a D series, I'd boost it too. The motors are a dime a dozen, and it might be kinda fun to F around with it.
If I was being serious with the car (ha...being serious.... "B serious"), I would never go boost as far as Honda goes. Unless....it was allready boosted from the factory.
Drag race reliability is easy. Mashing on it on the street reliability is easy.
I doubt many of the "budget" turbo setup guys on here could take their cars out road racing for even 1 day worry and fix free. Road racing is something I do very often and enjoy very much. I've been doing it for a while. I'd rather have fun just driving the hell out of the car while being pretty much worry free.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alacard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B serious is the most anti-boost person I've ever heard of. This isn't an insult...its just an observation, so don't come bashing me for it. I understand your concerns, but there are, in fact, many people boosting reliably and for a decent price. My suspicion is that you encountered some kind of issue in your car-modifying life that made you steer clear of turbos and become completely NA biased. Yes, N/A setups will generally be more reliable, but that does not mean that turbo setups can not be reliable. Just my .02
To the OP:
Do not let B serious steer you away from going with a turbo. That is the road more than half of us go, and if done right there should be no reliability problem. In the end, its your choice.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol only when it comes to hondas. I've owned a turbo car. I had a swapped S13 that was fast. That was a factory turbo motor....those meet my definition of reliable.
I have encountered many issues in my "tuning life". But not with my setups. They're always the boss lol. People always get fooled into thinking they can actually have a budget turbo setup on a non boost friendly car. Besides the actual turbo setup, you have to consider auxillary things like cooling, a clutch, electronics, etc etc. It just seems like people that do these cheap *** setups make their cars into a money pit or a daily fixer....or both.
If you were insistant and you really wanna go turbo, I'd say just do it right the first time. Then blow up, rinse, repeat
even with that said you could spend 2500 on your defition of a legit kit and still make more power than a swap for 2500 is all im saying.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Reliability, quality, neatness, and consistency are my top priorities. Not speed. I understand that some people just want to go fast. Honestly, if I were to do a D series, I'd boost it too. The motors are a dime a dozen, and it might be kinda fun to F around with it.
If I was being serious with the car (ha...being serious.... "B serious"), I would never go boost as far as Honda goes. Unless....it was allready boosted from the factory.
Drag race reliability is easy. Mashing on it on the street reliability is easy.
I doubt many of the "budget" turbo setup guys on here could take their cars out road racing for even 1 day worry and fix free. Road racing is something I do very often and enjoy very much. I've been doing it for a while. I'd rather have fun just driving the hell out of the car while being pretty much worry free.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alacard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B serious is the most anti-boost person I've ever heard of. This isn't an insult...its just an observation, so don't come bashing me for it. I understand your concerns, but there are, in fact, many people boosting reliably and for a decent price. My suspicion is that you encountered some kind of issue in your car-modifying life that made you steer clear of turbos and become completely NA biased. Yes, N/A setups will generally be more reliable, but that does not mean that turbo setups can not be reliable. Just my .02
To the OP:
Do not let B serious steer you away from going with a turbo. That is the road more than half of us go, and if done right there should be no reliability problem. In the end, its your choice.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol only when it comes to hondas. I've owned a turbo car. I had a swapped S13 that was fast. That was a factory turbo motor....those meet my definition of reliable.
I have encountered many issues in my "tuning life". But not with my setups. They're always the boss lol. People always get fooled into thinking they can actually have a budget turbo setup on a non boost friendly car. Besides the actual turbo setup, you have to consider auxillary things like cooling, a clutch, electronics, etc etc. It just seems like people that do these cheap *** setups make their cars into a money pit or a daily fixer....or both.
If you were insistant and you really wanna go turbo, I'd say just do it right the first time. Then blow up, rinse, repeat
H-T White Ops
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 17,603
Likes: 22
From: USA
Re: (Re3irth)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Re3irth »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So what came in the 96-00 non-EX or Si.
I thought it was still a 1.6L just with longer tranny and no vtec.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm confused how you have been here since 2003 and neither know how to search or have learnt that information already. Not an insult.. just confused.
Here are all of the USDM 6th gen ('96-'00) Civics though.
Civic CX hatch
1996 - 2000
EJ6
D16Y7
1.6L SOHC non-VTEC
Civic DX coupe/hatch/sedan
1996 - 2000
EJ6
D16Y7
1.6L SOHC non-VTEC
Civic EX coupe/sedan
1996 - 2000
EJ8
D16Y8
1.6L SOHC VTEC
Civic GX sedan (NGV)
1998 - 2000
EN1
D16B5
1.6L SOHC VTEC CNG
Civic HX coupe
1996 - 2000
EJ7
D16Y5
1.6L SOHC VTEC-E
Civic LX sedan
1996 - 2000
EJ6
D16Y7
1.6L SOHC non-VTEC
Civic Si coupe
1999 - 2000
EM1
B16A2
1.6L DOHC VTEC
Civic VP sedan (aka DX-V or SE)
1999 - 2000
EJ6
D16Y7
1.6L SOHC non-VTEC
I thought it was still a 1.6L just with longer tranny and no vtec.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm confused how you have been here since 2003 and neither know how to search or have learnt that information already. Not an insult.. just confused.
Here are all of the USDM 6th gen ('96-'00) Civics though.
Civic CX hatch
1996 - 2000
EJ6
D16Y7
1.6L SOHC non-VTEC
Civic DX coupe/hatch/sedan
1996 - 2000
EJ6
D16Y7
1.6L SOHC non-VTEC
Civic EX coupe/sedan
1996 - 2000
EJ8
D16Y8
1.6L SOHC VTEC
Civic GX sedan (NGV)
1998 - 2000
EN1
D16B5
1.6L SOHC VTEC CNG
Civic HX coupe
1996 - 2000
EJ7
D16Y5
1.6L SOHC VTEC-E
Civic LX sedan
1996 - 2000
EJ6
D16Y7
1.6L SOHC non-VTEC
Civic Si coupe
1999 - 2000
EM1
B16A2
1.6L DOHC VTEC
Civic VP sedan (aka DX-V or SE)
1999 - 2000
EJ6
D16Y7
1.6L SOHC non-VTEC
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Derby, KS, USA
you all keep talking about the B series motor. My car has a D15B7 in it. It is a 1.5L and thats all. I just wanted to show some pics of my car, not start a whole whats the best turbo setup or whats cheaper. I plan on a turbo in the future, right now it gets me to work and back and looks somewhat decent I think. I have seen some of your cars and they make mine look like donkey a$$. Who has a turbo 1.5 here and as har as the spoiler. I dont know bud. I baught the car for 1000. The guy couldn't find out why it kept overheating. He had the motor rebuilt and a new tranny inst and clutch and a radiator. I baught it, hauled it home looked at the wheephole on the H2O pump, it was leaking. So I changed it and it is like a new car to me.