yeah... 98 stock dx coupe! haha

I dont wanna spend an arm or a leg

I just need it to get on the highway and up hills with out strugglin

I'm think b20 swap...whats the good one with the more HP.. i think some years are 146hp over the 120hp

or will i be better off with an ls or a b16

thanks or boost??

 

B16. Altho I don't like them very much. You can get a complete swap for about $2,000 or an extra thousand for a more powerful GSR. But in your case just for the high way and daily driven, i'd go with the B16.

Want to go cheaper? LS is a great motor

Good luck

 

turbo D is way fun

 

ls swap is the best bet. cheap and reliable. but then again a turbo D is also great.

 

go dohc. ls or b16 would be good for you. ls is cheap and a pretty easy swap

 

Ls with a snail!

 

go to http://www.turbod16.com and boost your current motor (you'll be more than happy with the gains), assuming the motor is in decent shape,don't know then do a compression/leakdown test. Hey even if you blow your motor you can get another d16 long block for acouple hundred bucks. Buy a turbo kit new/used/or piece together your own(examples at http://www.homemadeturbo.com). Don't get an ebay kit bc they're known to suck(you've been warned). You'll need to have you're motor TUNED(another warning), if you don't understand then you need to read up about turboing). There's a sticky at the top of this forum with info on the different available swaps.

Most important question is how much are you willing to spend("arm and a leg" varies person to person....cake eaters think 5 grand is nothing when to me its a whole lot) and what are your goals?

 

B16 or ls turbo

 

Im leaing more towards the b20z. As i know all about turboing the car i think i would have les problems with just a swap. Im not lookin for a race car by any means, i just a need a little power there to know i have it!

What are the advantages of the b20z over the ls.

Thanks guys

 

how bored do you get

 

LS with B16 tranny

 

If you get the B20 you wont be able to pass inspection, So if your state does it regularly then dont do b20 since its a light truck motor. If you want a litle more pep and not looking for a "racecar" check out about getting a Y8 or doing a mini me swap it gives you a decent amount of HP and doesnt cost more then like 500.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Ricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you get the B20 you wont be able to pass inspection, So if your state does it regularly then dont do b20 since its a light truck motor. If you want a litle more pep and not looking for a "racecar" check out about getting a Y8 or doing a mini me swap it gives you a decent amount of HP and doesnt cost more then like 500. </TD></TR></TABLE>

He lives in NY, no emissions bull.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondamanXxX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B16. Altho I don't like them very much. You can get a complete swap for about $2,000 or an extra thousand for a more powerful GSR. But in your case just for the high way and daily driven, i'd go with the B16.

Want to go cheaper? LS is a great motor

Good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

B16 swap is for the simple minded, keep it that way.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by streetspeed607 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah... 98 stock dx coupe! haha

I dont wanna spend an arm or a leg

I just need it to get on the highway and up hills with out strugglin

I'm think b20 swap...whats the good one with the more HP.. i think some years are 146hp over the 120hp

or will i be better off with an ls or a b16

thanks or boost??</TD></TR></TABLE>

A B20Z is nice if you retain a 6500 RPM redline with an LS or GSR transmission. You can get one nice and cheap too.

You gotta think b4 u ask questions on H-T. They're a bunch of ricers, they don't use logic. They just think what is the fastest motor, highest RPM, lowest 1/4 mile time, etc. They never think in terms of practicality. Every tool and his brother on here has bad **** to say about the B20 b/c you can't put it past 8k.

You're in the same boat I am, chief. On all OBD-II cars ('96+) it has to be connected to the OBD port and it matches the computer's data from what it should be based on Albany's mainframe. You can't have any CEL's and no more than 2 I/M monitors not ready. So you're stuck using the OBD-II LS ECU to pass inspection and hoping it doesn't toss a CEL and if u boost you gotta throw the stock ECU back in and pull the charge pipe.

You can run the B20 on an LS ECU while the I/M Monitors ready to pass inspection, so it's not that big of a deal. I'm contemplating that swap (B20Z w/ an LS trans) in my civic. Then again, I'm also contemplating selling it . The torque of the B20 due to its higher displacement is nice, but it's not a winder motor like the B16, GSR, ITR, etc. - it's a light truck motor, meant to have torque - so it's all what you make of it.

 

PRetty much true about not being able to take it Past 8K RPM. Thats how a friend of mine blew my B20v. It's all good though redoing everything still going B20v But putting more money into the block this time. IF you really want reliability go GSR you won't regret it.

 

LS swap is the simpliest choice that will be strong, easy, reliable and able to pass inspection. B20 are my favorite but they require more fuel than an LS ecu can provide.

 

i was in the same situation with my tired cx
i put in a ls with a b16 tranny and a t25 turbo really small but its more than enough power for me and fairly reliable.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

He lives in NY, no emissions bull.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lucky I retract my statment GL with your decision

 

If it was between an LS or B20 I would say LS all day. Way more relieable. But if the funds are there, GSR

 

Turbo D's are fun to drive and great deal for the money IMO.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Ricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Lucky I retract my statment GL with your decision </TD></TR></TABLE>

Naw, it's not lucky.

We don't have any emissions, but OBD-II sux. For '96+ cars you have to have the right ECU in there, and the port scan has to match the data files against Albany's mainframe. Also, you can only have 2 I/M monitors not ready meaning you can't pull the battery to reset CEL's.

So if you're on boost you have to slap in the OEM ECU and pull the charge pipe.

If you have a swap you better hope to god you used an OBD-II ECU, and with an OBD-II ECU, OBD-II **** goodies will be included such as the knock sensor and secondary O2 will throw CEL's on an OEM OBD-II ECU.

So we have no emissions ****, but the OBD-II crap is enough to make up for it .

I don't know if it's possible to get a K swap to pass without cheating the system on a '96+ civic.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HarfordCTR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it was between an LS or B20 I would say LS all day. Way more relieable. But if the funds are there, GSR</TD></TR></TABLE>

I disagree. If you retain the 6500 RPM redline on the B20 it's just as reliable as the LS, though I agree in the fact that if you have the $ for the GSR, do it.

I don't like the B16 because it's a D16 + RPM. It feels EXACTLY like a D16 until you need to nail it to the floor and then when u get to like 4k then it starts taking off. The GSR, LS, or B20 aren't the same - it feels more powerful even when just driving around town. Then it IS more powerful when you race.

 

LS is def. more reliable then the B20.
but if it were me, i would just spend the extra cash and go GSR. .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by streetspeed607 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah... 98 stock dx coupe! haha

I dont wanna spend an arm or a leg

I just need it to get on the highway and up hills with out strugglin

I'm think b20 swap...whats the good one with the more HP.. i think some years are 146hp over the 120hp

or will i be better off with an ls or a b16

thanks or boost??</TD></TR></TABLE>how much are you willing to spend is really what you should be asking yourself. once you determine a rough budget then try to find an alternative powertrain swap availible for that price