I just got my '96 hatch dyno'd on an AWD Mustang dyno. I have a high compression B18C5 with the usual mods, and my car runs great and feels quick. However, My dyno graph would embarrass most stock LS owners. It shows 135HP @7900RPM, and 96 Ft-Lb TQ. All runs were made in 4th gear. I was expecting at least 170 WHP. My A/F was a little rich: it stayed at 11.5:1 and then went to about 11.25:1 at around 8200RPM. I leaned it out a little and got it to about 12:1 but still got the same HP and TQ number. I am very disappointed and somewhat embarrased, as I was expecting a much higher figure. I suppose one could say it will be an easy number to improve upon, but my goal is to break 200WHP. I don't see how I can get another 70HP though. Any thoughts or opinions would be appreciated.
thanks

 

What do other engines typically put out on that dyno? Was any sort of correction factor used?

 

mustang dynos read low.

 

I don't know if any correction factors were used. I was surprised by the fact that they did all 3 runs back to back, without any cooldown time or tuning in between runs. My car was still hot from driving to the dyno as well. I have run 9.2 in 1/8 mile in 100deg. heat and street tires, which factors to about a mid 14 I guess. My car is 2700Lb. It seems like I should be putting down more power.
Mods are as follows
B18C5 block and head
S2 pro cam gears
new rings/bearings/ ITR oil pump
Moroso oil pan
ARP head studs
CTR pistons
Edelbrock intake mani.
ITR throttle body
RC 310cc
Walbro 255LPH
STR fuel rail
B&M FPR
short elbow intake, K&N filter
DC 2.5" 4-1, no cat, S2 exhaust
MSD pro cap
MSD external coil
Magnecor 10mm plug wires
NGK plugs
chipped p28; V-AFC

 

See if one of your friends has a car with a known power figure, and dyno that one. Mustang dynos read low, which is why "everyone" uses Dynojets. I saw a magazine article where they dyno'ed a WRX on a Mustang, and it was ridiculously low too.

 

This may sound dumb but- has the shop had the dyno long? Do they know how to use the correction factors the right way?

Friend of mine had a dynojet installed in his shop about a year ago- it always read anywhere from 40- 80hp low depending on the car. He had someone come and teach him the correction factor and it has been pretty much good to go now .

 

no i don't think they've had it for long. I think they've only been in business for a few months. I may just go elsewhere to get it dyno'd. I am not too far from RLZ, so I'll just go there from now on.

 

sounds like a software problem to me.

got any street kills that would proove the hp # wrong?

if you can walk a stock mustang then the dyno is just wrong...

edit: a stock 05-07 that is


Modified by 89s1 at 10:10 AM 11/4/2007

 

Race. Thats a good one. Since I've had my car together for the past 6 months I have yet to get a race. I used to have a '95 Mustang GT a while back that had the usual bolt ons and it ran 9.2 at like 74mph. My hatch ran a 9.2 at 78 on street tires full interior, etc. I have traction problems in 1st and 2nd so by the butt dyno I guessed my HP to be over 200 at the crank (a bone stock ITR motor does 195). I guessed 15% drivetrain losses and that puts it at around 170-180 @ the wheels. The shop is a Subaru specialist and really didn't seem to know much about Hondas. My buddy was there with his STI and it put down 389HP at 5k rpm before the ECU cut out.

 

A mustang dyno usually ready anywhere between 13-16% lower than a (dynojet for example).

so add about 15% onto what you made now and thats what you *should* have on a dynojet.