crv/ls/vtec... how to install oil squirters in the pistons, and more questions...
okay.. well, i've been reading posts lately, and trying to get myself ready in august for the big swap.. after my auto/manual swap at end of this month..
i have a few questions.. if you ppl can answer 1 or 2 or all.. tahts great..
1)how do you install oil squirters? anyone got pictures etc? why are oil squirters installed? does this have to be done at a machine shop?
2)what are things that I can not do at home, and MUST be taken to a machine shop? (pistons installed onto rods, dowel pin relocation etc...)
3)is a girdle a must? I remember reading here that someone put on a gsr girdle?
i have a few questions.. if you ppl can answer 1 or 2 or all.. tahts great..
1)how do you install oil squirters? anyone got pictures etc? why are oil squirters installed? does this have to be done at a machine shop?
2)what are things that I can not do at home, and MUST be taken to a machine shop? (pistons installed onto rods, dowel pin relocation etc...)
3)is a girdle a must? I remember reading here that someone put on a gsr girdle?
GS-R girdle can be done, but will require machining.
As far as the dowel relocation, you can do that at home. Use a drill and a vaccum to drill out the two new dowels... I believe the size is 9/16 (it's been a while).
As far as the dowel relocation, you can do that at home. Use a drill and a vaccum to drill out the two new dowels... I believe the size is 9/16 (it's been a while).
damn dont do the dowel pins holes at home. take the head to a machine shop and have them do it. if you f*ck up with your drill you're going to have to have the head resurfaced. it only cost me $20-30 to get the machine shop to do the holes anyway!
do it right the first time.
IMO i wouldnt worry about the oil squirters too much.
as for the girdle, you'll really only need that if you plan on revving to 8500+ rpms. its just a bit of added security. but if you dont have the main caps machined along with the girdle (if using the Z10 piece) then dont bother doing the girdle at all. without the dowel pins machined into the tops of the mains (to hold the girdle in place), using the girdle will be useless.
hth
Jason
do it right the first time.
IMO i wouldnt worry about the oil squirters too much.
as for the girdle, you'll really only need that if you plan on revving to 8500+ rpms. its just a bit of added security. but if you dont have the main caps machined along with the girdle (if using the Z10 piece) then dont bother doing the girdle at all. without the dowel pins machined into the tops of the mains (to hold the girdle in place), using the girdle will be useless.
hth
Jason
would there be a point to balacing the crankshaft and factory flywheel to improve the reliability of a 8000rpm B20B bottom end?
or is the Honda crank pretty good from factory?
thanks,
t..
PS dont drill hte dowel holes at home, unless you have an industrial drill press...
or is the Honda crank pretty good from factory?
thanks,
t..
PS dont drill hte dowel holes at home, unless you have an industrial drill press...
what does blancing the cranshaft mean?
that is all.
t..
I would recommend not bothering with this. Just get the pistons, hp coated. But if you must, you'll need spacers with a b18a/b crank. Else the counter weights won't clear the squirters. You'll need a tap (forgot the thread) to tap the oil passage for the squirters.
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I don't know exactly how the squirters are put into an LSVT, but they go into the block and shoot up towards the underside of the piston to keep them cooler. Aftermarket forged pistons need them less than stockers... but if you can get them in without too many problems... I say get 'em.
Why do you say this ? I have read that you can machine either the cap or the girdle or both. But if you do the dowels, you will need to do some work to the block... is that so ?
but if you dont have the main caps machined along with the girdle (if using the Z10 piece) then dont bother doing the girdle at all. without the dowel pins machined into the tops of the mains (to hold the girdle in place), using the girdle will be useless.
oil squirters are easy. blownhatch and i did it to my b20/vtec. get a J bit drill, drill the holes in the galley and tap with an 8x.75 tap. good luck finding one - they are hard as hell unless you order from overseas. you will have to bend them to clear the piston skirts and watch the counterweights on the crank - the clearances are close. other than that - have fun and TAKE YOUR TIME. if you do it right it is worth it!
ryan
ryan
Yes we did friend. Clearances are close, but I think that in the long run, reliability will definately be on your side.
but if you dont have the main caps machined along with the girdle (if using the Z10 piece) then dont bother doing the girdle at all. without the dowel pins machined into the tops of the mains (to hold the girdle in place), using the girdle will be useless.
Why do you say this ? I have read that you can machine either the cap or the girdle or both. But if you do the dowels, you will need to do some work to the block... is that so ?
Why do you say this ? I have read that you can machine either the cap or the girdle or both. But if you do the dowels, you will need to do some work to the block... is that so ?
you need to have both the main caps and girdle machined (again assuming something like the Z10 girdle) because you cannot just machine one or the other (otherwise how would they fit together with the dowels in the way?
besides that, if you dont have your main caps AND girdle machined, you are basically defeating the purpose of even adding the girdle. without dowel pins, the girdle will tend to 'float' over the caps.
but if you dont have the main caps machined along with the girdle (if using the Z10 piece) then dont bother doing the girdle at all. without the dowel pins machined into the tops of the mains (to hold the girdle in place), using the girdle will be useless.
Why do you say this ? I have read that you can machine either the cap or the girdle or both. But if you do the dowels, you will need to do some work to the block... is that so ?
well since this post is back from the dead.....
you need to have both the main caps and girdle machined (again assuming something like the Z10 girdle) because you cannot just machine one or the other (otherwise how would they fit together with the dowels in the way?
besides that, if you dont have your main caps AND girdle machined, you are basically defeating the purpose of even adding the girdle. without dowel pins, the girdle will tend to 'float' over the caps.
Why do you say this ? I have read that you can machine either the cap or the girdle or both. But if you do the dowels, you will need to do some work to the block... is that so ?
well since this post is back from the dead.....
you need to have both the main caps and girdle machined (again assuming something like the Z10 girdle) because you cannot just machine one or the other (otherwise how would they fit together with the dowels in the way?
besides that, if you dont have your main caps AND girdle machined, you are basically defeating the purpose of even adding the girdle. without dowel pins, the girdle will tend to 'float' over the caps.
Yes, a few months back, I was closely inspecting the differences between the GSR and the LS bottom ends and it seemed obvious why this was so. The girdle requires a good bit of machine work to both it and the block/caps. IMO it's not cheap... just get a GSR block...lol
I wouldn't risk drilling the oil squirters myself unless I had quite a bit of shop experience and the right tools.
In retrospect, seeing how the squirters work... I would definitely want them on a high CR or boosted motor.
X2
really? i thought b16 blocks doo have oil squirters. they are like little hoses right? cuz i think i see them in my frineds b16a2 block.
oh yah, umm
since i still have yet to finish piecing things.
would you guys rather get a type r oil cooler or an aftermarket oil cooler such as b&m?
thanks, im deciding whether i should use one or not...
oh yah, umm
since i still have yet to finish piecing things.
would you guys rather get a type r oil cooler or an aftermarket oil cooler such as b&m?
thanks, im deciding whether i should use one or not...
From what I've read, if you are going with aftermarket pistons (forged), the oil squirters are not as much of a concern. They are basically for stock pistons that don't handle detonation very well. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
Forged pistons don't need squirters becuase they carry heat away much better than cast.
B16's do have oil squirters. they are located just under the bottom of the sleeves, and the crank comes close to touching them while it is in motion. there are no external oil lines on vtec motors. just pcv lines, such as the black box on the back of the block, with the pcv lines going up to the intake manifold.
so would you guys go with the oil COOLER?
im still confused about the oil squirters issue though. SOme of hte crazy motor builders say dont use em, while on the other hand, other motors like the 4g63/b18c1/5 motor uses oil squirters. I know it is kinda hard to compare but why would other motors still prefer to use them?
im stuck with the stock b18c5 pistons, and those are cast; so i'll probably be using oil squirters but i'd still like to see why mnay still suggest not though...
i think i confused myself with what i've been typing...
im still confused about the oil squirters issue though. SOme of hte crazy motor builders say dont use em, while on the other hand, other motors like the 4g63/b18c1/5 motor uses oil squirters. I know it is kinda hard to compare but why would other motors still prefer to use them?
im stuck with the stock b18c5 pistons, and those are cast; so i'll probably be using oil squirters but i'd still like to see why mnay still suggest not though...
i think i confused myself with what i've been typing...
From what I've read, if you are going with aftermarket pistons (forged), the oil squirters are not as much of a concern. They are basically for stock pistons that don't handle detonation very well. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
The ITR oil cooler is a coolant based cooler, you can use an aftermarket oil cooler w/ it. I'd recommend you up the oil pressure some tho, that would add alot of distance of oil lines.
X2
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