Getting 220 LBS torque on a 150lbs torque wrench crank pulley
Yeah so Appearenlty I hate shopping for stuff and grab the first thing off the shelf I see.
So now I got a 150 lbs torque wrench, and I need to get 220 lbs out of it. So I either have to return
it or, is there another way of getting the crank pulley on with 220lbs?
So now I got a 150 lbs torque wrench, and I need to get 220 lbs out of it. So I either have to return
it or, is there another way of getting the crank pulley on with 220lbs?
Honestly, I have never torqued my crankpulley
I just use the biggest breaker bar I can find and torque it as hard as I can because it's going to tighten itself every time you drive anyway and eventually it's going to be on there at like 650ft/lbs
.
I just use the biggest breaker bar I can find and torque it as hard as I can because it's going to tighten itself every time you drive anyway and eventually it's going to be on there at like 650ft/lbs
.
**** 650lbs. No wonder getting it off was such a bitch. I broke two 1/4 wrachets, completly twisted an extender in half.
Thanks though, save me a trip to autozone now.
In the sig
Thanks though, save me a trip to autozone now.
In the sig
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I broke two 1/4 wrachets</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol
I use 1/2" or greater on that thing dude. Anything over 50ft-lbs or so...
lol
I use 1/2" or greater on that thing dude. Anything over 50ft-lbs or so...
So Hawke is like the 3rd person that I've heard say that evrytime you drive, the pulley will tighten itself up. How is this possible ? ..........
Think about the crankshaft, it spins counter-clockwise ( looking from the pulley side ). Now apply the Right Hand Rule (physics) to this scenerio. If the rotaional direction is Counter-Clockwise, then there must be a force coming OUT ( ex. spinning a washer on a string ). With that said, the pulley with have a force and will want to come off rather than tighten itself up. Am I missing something here ? I think it will come off if you tighten it 100 lb/ft ... it will not tighten itslef up to 181 lb/ft.
Think about the crankshaft, it spins counter-clockwise ( looking from the pulley side ). Now apply the Right Hand Rule (physics) to this scenerio. If the rotaional direction is Counter-Clockwise, then there must be a force coming OUT ( ex. spinning a washer on a string ). With that said, the pulley with have a force and will want to come off rather than tighten itself up. Am I missing something here ? I think it will come off if you tighten it 100 lb/ft ... it will not tighten itslef up to 181 lb/ft.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by street_ride14 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So Hawke is like the 3rd person that I've heard say that evrytime you drive, the pulley will tighten itself up. How is this possible ? ..........
Think about the crankshaft, it spins counter-clockwise ( looking from the pulley side ). Now apply the Right Hand Rule (physics) to this scenerio. If the rotaional direction is Counter-Clockwise, then there must be a force coming OUT ( ex. spinning a washer on a string ). With that said, the pulley with have a force and will want to come off rather than tighten itself up. Am I missing something here ? I think it will come off if you tighten it 100 lb/ft ... it will not tighten itslef up to 181 lb/ft.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
VTEC makes everything possible.
Think about the crankshaft, it spins counter-clockwise ( looking from the pulley side ). Now apply the Right Hand Rule (physics) to this scenerio. If the rotaional direction is Counter-Clockwise, then there must be a force coming OUT ( ex. spinning a washer on a string ). With that said, the pulley with have a force and will want to come off rather than tighten itself up. Am I missing something here ? I think it will come off if you tighten it 100 lb/ft ... it will not tighten itslef up to 181 lb/ft.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
VTEC makes everything possible.
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Well when had to torque my flywheel on my rx7 It had to be 300ft/lbs.
I set the torque wrench for 100ft/lbs and made a 3ft breaker bar.
3ft length x 100ft/lbs makes 300ft/lbs I believe. But I think if you just tighten it as tight as you can with a breaker bar it will be fine. Just like hawk and mgags stated.
I set the torque wrench for 100ft/lbs and made a 3ft breaker bar.
3ft length x 100ft/lbs makes 300ft/lbs I believe. But I think if you just tighten it as tight as you can with a breaker bar it will be fine. Just like hawk and mgags stated.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lol
I use 1/2" or greater on that thing dude. Anything over 50ft-lbs or so...</TD></TR></TABLE>
This one dude I knew used a huge 3/4 inch impact gun to get it off and it still took a few tries hahaha.
lol
I use 1/2" or greater on that thing dude. Anything over 50ft-lbs or so...</TD></TR></TABLE>
This one dude I knew used a huge 3/4 inch impact gun to get it off and it still took a few tries hahaha.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roller3804 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well when had to torque my flywheel on my rx7 It had to be 300ft/lbs.
I set the torque wrench for 100ft/lbs and made a 3ft breaker bar.
3ft length x 100ft/lbs makes 300ft/lbs I believe. But I think if you just tighten it as tight as you can with a breaker bar it will be fine. Just like hawk and mgags stated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That tq won't be exactly accurate like that, the torque it "calculates" is based on the length of the wrench, and the amount of force on the head. You just used an easy way of applying 100ft/lbs.
You don't really need to torque it on, just crank on it to be safe. Don't get out of hand and break it though.
I set the torque wrench for 100ft/lbs and made a 3ft breaker bar.
3ft length x 100ft/lbs makes 300ft/lbs I believe. But I think if you just tighten it as tight as you can with a breaker bar it will be fine. Just like hawk and mgags stated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That tq won't be exactly accurate like that, the torque it "calculates" is based on the length of the wrench, and the amount of force on the head. You just used an easy way of applying 100ft/lbs.
You don't really need to torque it on, just crank on it to be safe. Don't get out of hand and break it though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by street_ride14 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So Hawke is like the 3rd person that I've heard say that evrytime you drive, the pulley will tighten itself up. How is this possible ? ..........
Think about the crankshaft, it spins counter-clockwise ( looking from the pulley side ). Now apply the Right Hand Rule (physics) to this scenerio. If the rotaional direction is Counter-Clockwise, then there must be a force coming OUT ( ex. spinning a washer on a string ). With that said, the pulley with have a force and will want to come off rather than tighten itself up. Am I missing something here ? I think it will come off if you tighten it 100 lb/ft ... it will not tighten itslef up to 181 lb/ft.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That rule doesn't apply here since the crank is fixed into the block, the force generated in the direction of the angular velocity vector is opposed by the thrust washers and a few other things that hold the crank in place.
The amount of torque the engine outputs is never going to loosen the bolt, it would have to be stronger than the force the air around the bolt is placing on the bolt(because there is nothing holding it still), plus the amount of torque on the bolt.
The reason these bolts back out if you leave them loose is that there is a good deal of distortion going on in the bottom end that causes harmonics (vibrations) to travel through the crank, these are dissipated mainly on the rubber ring on the crank pulley, and through getting there, that bolt is vibrated.
Think about the crankshaft, it spins counter-clockwise ( looking from the pulley side ). Now apply the Right Hand Rule (physics) to this scenerio. If the rotaional direction is Counter-Clockwise, then there must be a force coming OUT ( ex. spinning a washer on a string ). With that said, the pulley with have a force and will want to come off rather than tighten itself up. Am I missing something here ? I think it will come off if you tighten it 100 lb/ft ... it will not tighten itslef up to 181 lb/ft.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That rule doesn't apply here since the crank is fixed into the block, the force generated in the direction of the angular velocity vector is opposed by the thrust washers and a few other things that hold the crank in place.
The amount of torque the engine outputs is never going to loosen the bolt, it would have to be stronger than the force the air around the bolt is placing on the bolt(because there is nothing holding it still), plus the amount of torque on the bolt.
The reason these bolts back out if you leave them loose is that there is a good deal of distortion going on in the bottom end that causes harmonics (vibrations) to travel through the crank, these are dissipated mainly on the rubber ring on the crank pulley, and through getting there, that bolt is vibrated.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah so Appearenlty I hate shopping for stuff and grab the first thing off the shelf I see.
So now I got a 150 lbs torque wrench, and I need to get 220 lbs out of it. So I either have to return
it or, is there another way of getting the crank pulley on with 220lbs?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't need 220 lbs. The workshop manual states 220 Nm, or 159 lb
So now I got a 150 lbs torque wrench, and I need to get 220 lbs out of it. So I either have to return
it or, is there another way of getting the crank pulley on with 220lbs?</TD></TR></TABLE>You don't need 220 lbs. The workshop manual states 220 Nm, or 159 lb
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't need 220 lbs. The workshop manual states 220 Nm, or 159 lb </TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed always torqued mine to 160 Ft-lbs never an issue
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by street_ride14 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Am I missing something here ? I think it will come off if you tighten it 100 lb/ft ... it will not tighten itslef up to 181 lb/ft.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think the fact that is missing: some main pulley bolts are reverse threaded some are not.
I picked up a car once that was put together by an idiot that didnt torque anything to spec. On the way home the main pulley fell off....so no it doesnt "torque itself" and yes you really should use a torque wrench. Just crank until the 150 click and then give it one more crank. That should get you to the 160 range
Agreed always torqued mine to 160 Ft-lbs never an issue
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by street_ride14 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Am I missing something here ? I think it will come off if you tighten it 100 lb/ft ... it will not tighten itslef up to 181 lb/ft.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think the fact that is missing: some main pulley bolts are reverse threaded some are not.
I picked up a car once that was put together by an idiot that didnt torque anything to spec. On the way home the main pulley fell off....so no it doesnt "torque itself" and yes you really should use a torque wrench. Just crank until the 150 click and then give it one more crank. That should get you to the 160 range
Would the fact that its JDM affect the way it has been threaded? Seeing as how everything they do in their country is backwards(Drive on other side of road, water flushes the opposit way, etc) mabey their reverse thread is our regualr thread.
j/k
j/k
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Finest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
VTEC makes everything possible.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
problem solved
VTEC makes everything possible.
</TD></TR></TABLE>problem solved
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That tq won't be exactly accurate like that, the torque it "calculates" is based on the length of the wrench, and the amount of force on the head. You just used an easy way of applying 100ft/lbs.
You don't really need to torque it on, just crank on it to be safe. Don't get out of hand and break it though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That tq won't be exactly accurate like that, the torque it "calculates" is based on the length of the wrench, and the amount of force on the head. You just used an easy way of applying 100ft/lbs.
You don't really need to torque it on, just crank on it to be safe. Don't get out of hand and break it though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That rule doesn't apply here since the crank is fixed into the block, the force generated in the direction of the angular velocity vector is opposed by the thrust washers and a few other things that hold the crank in place.
The amount of torque the engine outputs is never going to loosen the bolt, it would have to be stronger than the force the air around the bolt is placing on the bolt(because there is nothing holding it still), plus the amount of torque on the bolt.
The reason these bolts back out if you leave them loose is that there is a good deal of distortion going on in the bottom end that causes harmonics (vibrations) to travel through the crank, these are dissipated mainly on the rubber ring on the crank pulley, and through getting there, that bolt is vibrated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine has come off 3 diferent times.... i used an impact once to put it on, and this time i used locktite... any ideas on why it keeps coming off? I know matt said vibrations, but what can I do to keep it from doing that?
That rule doesn't apply here since the crank is fixed into the block, the force generated in the direction of the angular velocity vector is opposed by the thrust washers and a few other things that hold the crank in place.
The amount of torque the engine outputs is never going to loosen the bolt, it would have to be stronger than the force the air around the bolt is placing on the bolt(because there is nothing holding it still), plus the amount of torque on the bolt.
The reason these bolts back out if you leave them loose is that there is a good deal of distortion going on in the bottom end that causes harmonics (vibrations) to travel through the crank, these are dissipated mainly on the rubber ring on the crank pulley, and through getting there, that bolt is vibrated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine has come off 3 diferent times.... i used an impact once to put it on, and this time i used locktite... any ideas on why it keeps coming off? I know matt said vibrations, but what can I do to keep it from doing that?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by manbearpig »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Mine has come off 3 diferent times.... i used an impact once to put it on, and this time i used locktite... any ideas on why it keeps coming off? I know matt said vibrations, but what can I do to keep it from doing that? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I would try getting a new bolt from Honda and re-tapping the threads in the crank...shouldn't have to use Loctite.
Mine has come off 3 diferent times.... i used an impact once to put it on, and this time i used locktite... any ideas on why it keeps coming off? I know matt said vibrations, but what can I do to keep it from doing that? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I would try getting a new bolt from Honda and re-tapping the threads in the crank...shouldn't have to use Loctite.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would try getting a new bolt from Honda and re-tapping the threads in the crank...shouldn't have to use Loctite.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, if it comes out again, I'm def getting a new bolt.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tacticalcustoms »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just used my impact gun its called earthquake and it puts down 800 lbs of tq :D</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn son.... that can't be good for anything..... can it?
I would try getting a new bolt from Honda and re-tapping the threads in the crank...shouldn't have to use Loctite.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, if it comes out again, I'm def getting a new bolt.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tacticalcustoms »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just used my impact gun its called earthquake and it puts down 800 lbs of tq :D</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn son.... that can't be good for anything..... can it?
800lbs of force on that bolt would break it, I doubt your compressor makes enough pressure to get all 800lbs out of it.
Half man, half bearpig, you should definitely clean the threads out next time you have it off.
Half man, half bearpig, you should definitely clean the threads out next time you have it off.
Well this probally wont help much. But you should try one of those harmonic balancers for it. I got one of them and it made everything s whole hell of a lot easier taken it off.


