Post your collectors built with Harbor Freight Bandsaw!!!
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Post your collectors built with Harbor Freight Bandsaw!!!
I'd like to see what people have pulled off using the harbor freight band saw. Have people been able to cut nice 4-1 turbo collectors out of sch40 stainless with these cheapy bandsaws?
Justin
Justin
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From: I'm everywhere Focker
Re: Post your collectors built with Harbor Freight Bandsaw!!! (Justin Olson)
A good blade and the right tweaking on a HF bandsaw is the key I'm finding. I have too many laptops, so these are the ones I have online. The more I tweak on my jig though, the more precise I am getting them. I will take a pre-welded picture soon...they are all but dead *****. HF FTMFW 
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From: I heart tool, US
Re: (Justin Olson)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Justin Olson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What blade makes it cut that good on stainless pipe?
Justin</TD></TR></TABLE>
Morse makes a 10-14 variable tooth blade that is very thick compared to most blades made for this size of bandsaw. I can get 4-5 manifolds out of one $15 blade. People tend to forget they need to break in a new blade, which drasticlly reduces it's life.
Justin</TD></TR></TABLE>
Morse makes a 10-14 variable tooth blade that is very thick compared to most blades made for this size of bandsaw. I can get 4-5 manifolds out of one $15 blade. People tend to forget they need to break in a new blade, which drasticlly reduces it's life.
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From: in the shop, usa
Re: (Boostwerks.com)
what speed are you useing to get life out of the blade, when i purchased mine on the first cut, the top gear on the motor (the plastic piece that holds the belt) broke into pieces, so now im stuck with the two faster speeds...
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From: Windsor, ONT, Canada
Re: (Boostwerks.com)
How do you break in a new blade?
Also I have a HF saw but it won't cut pieces straight for the life of me, it wanders in and I get an angled cut, its obvously worse the larger the piece is. Does anyone have any tips for adjusting the blade to cut perfectly straight, this is driving me nuts and i've read the instructions like 10 times.
Also I have a HF saw but it won't cut pieces straight for the life of me, it wanders in and I get an angled cut, its obvously worse the larger the piece is. Does anyone have any tips for adjusting the blade to cut perfectly straight, this is driving me nuts and i've read the instructions like 10 times.
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From: I heart tool, US
Re: (ebydrc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ebydrc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what speed are you useing to get life out of the blade, when i purchased mine on the first cut, the top gear on the motor (the plastic piece that holds the belt) broke into pieces, so now im stuck with the two faster speeds...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I use the medium speed just fine. When cutting something hard like stainless, you want to keep the blade speed at a moderate level to keep the saw 'floating' on the teeth but not so fast that it heats the blade up to the point that makes it brittle. The best way that I have found to cut stainless is to keep the blade speed on medium with a very low feed pressure. I use some very large saws at my work, and have found this works just as good with my tiny HF.
Bandsaws also need to be 'eased' into the material. Don't just set the feed pressure, and drop the arm onto the metal. A good general rule of thumb is that 4-5 teeth should be completely into the material, before giving the saw it's normal feed rate. This is actually the #1 cause of blades loosing teeth.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by robbbby »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you break in a new blade?
Also I have a HF saw but it won't cut pieces straight for the life of me, it wanders in and I get an angled cut, its obvously worse the larger the piece is. Does anyone have any tips for adjusting the blade to cut perfectly straight, this is driving me nuts and i've read the instructions like 10 times.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The break in period depends on the blade and what your cutting, but normally they reccomend 50% the feed pressure that the blade normally runs for 10-20 square inches of material. I know that sounds vauge, but you just have to get a feel for how the blade cuts the material.
First of all...get a good blade. The ones HF, home depot or Lowes sells will not get the job done. Search http://www.useenco.com for the bimetal variable tooth blade made by Morse.
The next step you want to take is to make sure the blade guides have enough pressure on the blade to prevent it from arcing as pressure gets applied to it. You can tell if it has enough pressure if the blade is a tight fit to install between the bearings. The blade also needs to be tensioned properlly so it has just enough tension to cut through the material square. This is also something your going to have to play with inorder to find what works for you.
Keep in mind to that too high of feed pressure/rate will cause the cut to arc. Once the blade is broken in and cutting square, slowly increase the feed rate. You'll know when you've gone too far when you hear the blade skipping.
I use the medium speed just fine. When cutting something hard like stainless, you want to keep the blade speed at a moderate level to keep the saw 'floating' on the teeth but not so fast that it heats the blade up to the point that makes it brittle. The best way that I have found to cut stainless is to keep the blade speed on medium with a very low feed pressure. I use some very large saws at my work, and have found this works just as good with my tiny HF.
Bandsaws also need to be 'eased' into the material. Don't just set the feed pressure, and drop the arm onto the metal. A good general rule of thumb is that 4-5 teeth should be completely into the material, before giving the saw it's normal feed rate. This is actually the #1 cause of blades loosing teeth.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by robbbby »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you break in a new blade?
Also I have a HF saw but it won't cut pieces straight for the life of me, it wanders in and I get an angled cut, its obvously worse the larger the piece is. Does anyone have any tips for adjusting the blade to cut perfectly straight, this is driving me nuts and i've read the instructions like 10 times.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The break in period depends on the blade and what your cutting, but normally they reccomend 50% the feed pressure that the blade normally runs for 10-20 square inches of material. I know that sounds vauge, but you just have to get a feel for how the blade cuts the material.
First of all...get a good blade. The ones HF, home depot or Lowes sells will not get the job done. Search http://www.useenco.com for the bimetal variable tooth blade made by Morse.
The next step you want to take is to make sure the blade guides have enough pressure on the blade to prevent it from arcing as pressure gets applied to it. You can tell if it has enough pressure if the blade is a tight fit to install between the bearings. The blade also needs to be tensioned properlly so it has just enough tension to cut through the material square. This is also something your going to have to play with inorder to find what works for you.
Keep in mind to that too high of feed pressure/rate will cause the cut to arc. Once the blade is broken in and cutting square, slowly increase the feed rate. You'll know when you've gone too far when you hear the blade skipping.
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From: in the shop, usa
i have my feed pressure set at the highest rate, and if i let it cut all by the pressure from the spring it would take several minutes to cut through a 16ga 3.00 tube... mine must be a pos, i acturaly got mine from grizzley, i believe its the same as the HF, currently i just do almost all the cutting with the cut off saw 
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From: I'm everywhere Focker
Re: (ebydrc)
Boostworks....good god man....that's some excessive stuff your talkin about there. I get three to four manifolds out of the blade, and that's cutting every piece, the collector, trimming here and there...no break in or anything.
I just worked hard to get my bandsaw to cut on it's own with the spring tension, and see that it doens't really lay to much weight on it. I just adjusted the tension on the blade, close down the saws throat opening and let it cut away.
I get the mcmaster carr blades that are 10-14tpi and the variable rake bi-metal blades in the .025 thickness. These blades work very well. I just got another blade recently and decided to try the 14-18tpi with a variable wavy style bi-metal...gotta see how it cuts.
Good blades, tight jig, and good saw setup and you should have no problem.
I just worked hard to get my bandsaw to cut on it's own with the spring tension, and see that it doens't really lay to much weight on it. I just adjusted the tension on the blade, close down the saws throat opening and let it cut away.
I get the mcmaster carr blades that are 10-14tpi and the variable rake bi-metal blades in the .025 thickness. These blades work very well. I just got another blade recently and decided to try the 14-18tpi with a variable wavy style bi-metal...gotta see how it cuts.
Good blades, tight jig, and good saw setup and you should have no problem.
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Windsor, ONT, Canada
Re: (Boostwerks.com)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostwerks.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
First of all...get a good blade. The ones HF, home depot or Lowes sells will not get the job done. Search http://www.useenco.com for the bimetal variable tooth blade made by Morse.
The next step you want to take is to make sure the blade guides have enough pressure on the blade to prevent it from arcing as pressure gets applied to it. You can tell if it has enough pressure if the blade is a tight fit to install between the bearings. The blade also needs to be tensioned properlly so it has just enough tension to cut through the material square. This is also something your going to have to play with inorder to find what works for you.
Keep in mind to that too high of feed pressure/rate will cause the cut to arc. Once the blade is broken in and cutting square, slowly increase the feed rate. You'll know when you've gone too far when you hear the blade skipping. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I had some blades welded together for me at a shop, they use wikus blades which appear to be better than the HF stuff, so I have some decent blades.
Regarding tension, i've read that you should tighten it as much as you can turn the tension ****, so this isn't true?
I also have the bearings tight against the blade but it almost looks like the bearings don't hold it square to the work piece, maybe because they are eccentric and aren't setup properly. Also are the bearings that roll along the backside of the blade important. Thanks for all the tips!
First of all...get a good blade. The ones HF, home depot or Lowes sells will not get the job done. Search http://www.useenco.com for the bimetal variable tooth blade made by Morse.
The next step you want to take is to make sure the blade guides have enough pressure on the blade to prevent it from arcing as pressure gets applied to it. You can tell if it has enough pressure if the blade is a tight fit to install between the bearings. The blade also needs to be tensioned properlly so it has just enough tension to cut through the material square. This is also something your going to have to play with inorder to find what works for you.
Keep in mind to that too high of feed pressure/rate will cause the cut to arc. Once the blade is broken in and cutting square, slowly increase the feed rate. You'll know when you've gone too far when you hear the blade skipping.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I had some blades welded together for me at a shop, they use wikus blades which appear to be better than the HF stuff, so I have some decent blades.
Regarding tension, i've read that you should tighten it as much as you can turn the tension ****, so this isn't true?
I also have the bearings tight against the blade but it almost looks like the bearings don't hold it square to the work piece, maybe because they are eccentric and aren't setup properly. Also are the bearings that roll along the backside of the blade important. Thanks for all the tips!
ive been considering buying a more expensive saw with a tilting head and what not...
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From: I heart tool, US
Re: (RC000E)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Boostworks....good god man....that's some excessive stuff your talkin about there. I get three to four manifolds out of the blade, and that's cutting every piece, the collector, trimming here and there...no break in or anything.
I just worked hard to get my bandsaw to cut on it's own with the spring tension, and see that it doens't really lay to much weight on it. I just adjusted the tension on the blade, close down the saws throat opening and let it cut away.
I get the mcmaster carr blades that are 10-14tpi and the variable rake bi-metal blades in the .025 thickness. These blades work very well. I just got another blade recently and decided to try the 14-18tpi with a variable wavy style bi-metal...gotta see how it cuts.
Good blades, tight jig, and good saw setup and you should have no problem.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol. When you work on a very large saw that takes blades that cost more than a $100, and have a blade tension of 1300lbs...you pay attention to the small stuff. You'd be surprised how long you can get a blade to last when it's pampered.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by robbbby »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I had some blades welded together for me at a shop, they use wikus blades which appear to be better than the HF stuff, so I have some decent blades.
Regarding tension, i've read that you should tighten it as much as you can turn the tension ****, so this isn't true?
I also have the bearings tight against the blade but it almost looks like the bearings don't hold it square to the work piece, maybe because they are eccentric and aren't setup properly. Also are the bearings that roll along the backside of the blade important. Thanks for all the tips!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is very much possible to over tension the blade. It will actually stretch the blade, and once it heats up will severlly reduce it's life. You want just enough tension that it doesn't start arcing as the feed rate is increased. This is also something you just have to play with.
The bearings will need to be adjusted for the blade your using. Different blades have different thicknesses, and will require re-adjustment. Try to adjust them so both sides have about the same tension on the blade. Also make sure the back of the blade is resting up against the flange of the rollers, and the teeth arn't hitting the roller. You can adjust the top roller so the blade rides where it should. Once you have that covered, adjust the top bearings so they just ride along the top of the blade. They are simply there to make sure the blade doesn't deflect upwards as pressure is put upon the blade.
Your welcome. I'm glad to help out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ebydrc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i will have to check those out and start useing the HF again ive been considering buying a more expensive saw with a tilting head and what not...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Using a good blade, and proper machine setup is the key to getting good cuts with this saw. It is definetly FAR from the nice saws that are out there, but with some TLC it works very well.
I just worked hard to get my bandsaw to cut on it's own with the spring tension, and see that it doens't really lay to much weight on it. I just adjusted the tension on the blade, close down the saws throat opening and let it cut away.
I get the mcmaster carr blades that are 10-14tpi and the variable rake bi-metal blades in the .025 thickness. These blades work very well. I just got another blade recently and decided to try the 14-18tpi with a variable wavy style bi-metal...gotta see how it cuts.
Good blades, tight jig, and good saw setup and you should have no problem.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol. When you work on a very large saw that takes blades that cost more than a $100, and have a blade tension of 1300lbs...you pay attention to the small stuff. You'd be surprised how long you can get a blade to last when it's pampered.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by robbbby »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I had some blades welded together for me at a shop, they use wikus blades which appear to be better than the HF stuff, so I have some decent blades.
Regarding tension, i've read that you should tighten it as much as you can turn the tension ****, so this isn't true?
I also have the bearings tight against the blade but it almost looks like the bearings don't hold it square to the work piece, maybe because they are eccentric and aren't setup properly. Also are the bearings that roll along the backside of the blade important. Thanks for all the tips!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is very much possible to over tension the blade. It will actually stretch the blade, and once it heats up will severlly reduce it's life. You want just enough tension that it doesn't start arcing as the feed rate is increased. This is also something you just have to play with.
The bearings will need to be adjusted for the blade your using. Different blades have different thicknesses, and will require re-adjustment. Try to adjust them so both sides have about the same tension on the blade. Also make sure the back of the blade is resting up against the flange of the rollers, and the teeth arn't hitting the roller. You can adjust the top roller so the blade rides where it should. Once you have that covered, adjust the top bearings so they just ride along the top of the blade. They are simply there to make sure the blade doesn't deflect upwards as pressure is put upon the blade.
Your welcome. I'm glad to help out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ebydrc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i will have to check those out and start useing the HF again ive been considering buying a more expensive saw with a tilting head and what not...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Using a good blade, and proper machine setup is the key to getting good cuts with this saw. It is definetly FAR from the nice saws that are out there, but with some TLC it works very well.
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From: Youngstown, OH, USA
i'm glad to have found a thread on this HF bandsaw with some good detailed information. I bought one last winter for a manifold project & it didn't really work out very well for me. I guess i just didn't have everything adjusted properly. After going through 2 blades i just tossed it in the corner & haven't been using it. I bought collectors the last few times i needed them. I think i might pull it out & try to get it going properly, i've got a few projects comming up this winter that i'm sure it would come in handy on.
Thanks for the great information.. i might have a few questions once i pull it out.
Thanks for the great information.. i might have a few questions once i pull it out.
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From: St.pete FL
Re: Post your collectors built with Harbor Freight Bandsaw!!! (RC000E)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A good blade and the right tweaking on a HF bandsaw is the key I'm finding. I have too many laptops, so these are the ones I have online. The more I tweak on my jig though, the more precise I am getting them. I will take a pre-welded picture soon...they are all but dead *****. HF FTMFW
</TD></TR></TABLE>
With out a doubt I think you makes some of the best collectors around!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
With out a doubt I think you makes some of the best collectors around!!!
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: rochester, ny, usa
I've got an HF bandsaw that works great when the blade doesn't break. after about 6 cuts each i've broken two blades. cutting mild sch40 1.5" pipe at the slowest speed and with the most resistance. i also always set the blade gently, letting it cut in and get some teeth into the material before i let go
both blades broke at the weld seam.
I'll get them rewelded and check all my blade settings again.
But when it was operational i was making great cuts:
These cuts were untouched. i unclamped them, wiped them with a rag and took the picture.
Result
-Luke
both blades broke at the weld seam.
I'll get them rewelded and check all my blade settings again.
But when it was operational i was making great cuts:
These cuts were untouched. i unclamped them, wiped them with a rag and took the picture.
Result
-Luke
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From: I'm everywhere Focker
Re: (Boostwerks.com)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostwerks.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lol. When you work on a very large saw that takes blades that cost more than a $100, and have a blade tension of 1300lbs...you pay attention to the small stuff. You'd be surprised how long you can get a blade to last when it's pampered. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I don't disagree, when it comes to a big saw, expensive *** blades and all that...sure baby that stuff. The HF bandsaw doesn't get that kind of love though..
I could place an analogy citing some drunken bar ***** versus a pretty blonde you take home to momma...but I think it could get graphic
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBURKE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
With out a doubt I think you makes some of the best collectors around!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
thank you brother....I do what I can.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Running925 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm glad to have found a thread on this HF bandsaw with some good detailed information. I bought one last winter for a manifold project & it didn't really work out very well for me. I guess i just didn't have everything adjusted properly. After going through 2 blades i just tossed it in the corner & haven't been using it. I bought collectors the last few times i needed them. I think i might pull it out & try to get it going properly, i've got a few projects comming up this winter that i'm sure it would come in handy on.
Thanks for the great information.. i might have a few questions once i pull it out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I can't tell you how close I was to doing the same thing. I first used it and I was NOT happy. It cut like crap, had the blade popping off, and was SLOW as hell. I was VERY near calling it quits, but I didn't.
I decided to get a good blace, really work the **** out of that garbage tension spring to get it set right, and tightened my blade up. Then I worked a while to put together my collector jig.
This isn't a c-clamp and a sharpie jig, I'm talking a true jig. It locks in the pipe, rotates it exactly, and is entirely self contained and quick to use. I lock it in, cut, loosen, turn it, lock it down, cut, and it's done.
It took me a minute to come up with the idea on how mine is made, but if you really focus on the job the jig needs to serve you can come up with a solution. The thing was, that once my jig was done it performed EXACTLY, but the saw doesn't. These little HF saws just don't have the blade tension to be truly straight, so you have some small variation. It's these variations that required me to slowly make small mods to my jig, after each collector, in order to get it to cut exactly what I needed.
You have to stick with it. I love my little HF now. I set it up, turn it on, then go do something else while it cuts.
lol. When you work on a very large saw that takes blades that cost more than a $100, and have a blade tension of 1300lbs...you pay attention to the small stuff. You'd be surprised how long you can get a blade to last when it's pampered.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah, I don't disagree, when it comes to a big saw, expensive *** blades and all that...sure baby that stuff. The HF bandsaw doesn't get that kind of love though..
I could place an analogy citing some drunken bar ***** versus a pretty blonde you take home to momma...but I think it could get graphic <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBURKE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
With out a doubt I think you makes some of the best collectors around!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
thank you brother....I do what I can.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Running925 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm glad to have found a thread on this HF bandsaw with some good detailed information. I bought one last winter for a manifold project & it didn't really work out very well for me. I guess i just didn't have everything adjusted properly. After going through 2 blades i just tossed it in the corner & haven't been using it. I bought collectors the last few times i needed them. I think i might pull it out & try to get it going properly, i've got a few projects comming up this winter that i'm sure it would come in handy on.
Thanks for the great information.. i might have a few questions once i pull it out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I can't tell you how close I was to doing the same thing. I first used it and I was NOT happy. It cut like crap, had the blade popping off, and was SLOW as hell. I was VERY near calling it quits, but I didn't.
I decided to get a good blace, really work the **** out of that garbage tension spring to get it set right, and tightened my blade up. Then I worked a while to put together my collector jig.
This isn't a c-clamp and a sharpie jig, I'm talking a true jig. It locks in the pipe, rotates it exactly, and is entirely self contained and quick to use. I lock it in, cut, loosen, turn it, lock it down, cut, and it's done.
It took me a minute to come up with the idea on how mine is made, but if you really focus on the job the jig needs to serve you can come up with a solution. The thing was, that once my jig was done it performed EXACTLY, but the saw doesn't. These little HF saws just don't have the blade tension to be truly straight, so you have some small variation. It's these variations that required me to slowly make small mods to my jig, after each collector, in order to get it to cut exactly what I needed.
You have to stick with it. I love my little HF now. I set it up, turn it on, then go do something else while it cuts.
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From: I'm everywhere Focker
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From: Windsor, ONT, Canada
Re: (RC000E)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I decided to get a good blace, really work the **** out of that garbage tension spring to get it set right, and tightened my blade up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you don't mind sharing, what exactly did you do to the spring? I turn and turn and turn mine and find it does nothing. Was yours not feeding down slow enough prior to you fixing it?
I decided to get a good blace, really work the **** out of that garbage tension spring to get it set right, and tightened my blade up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you don't mind sharing, what exactly did you do to the spring? I turn and turn and turn mine and find it does nothing. Was yours not feeding down slow enough prior to you fixing it?
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From: I'm everywhere Focker
Re: (robbbby)
No...that thing would never support it, but I just kept cranking like hell on it. The handle actually broke on the rod...so I cranked the rod with vice grips tighter and tighter until it finally supported it. It will work....you just gotta keep cranking man. It's a shitty setup, but it'll work
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 134
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From: Windsor, ONT, Canada
Re: (RC000E)
I think the entire saw is garbage! I thought me not being able to make a straight cut was due to operator error until I went back and reread a post somebody had made on another forum regarding this saw not cutting straight. This post mentions how his green saw didn't have the bores for the saws hinge line up. Well I decided to inspect mine closely and sure enough the hinge is off what I think is enough to warrant bad cuts.
That side is visibly higher (no so much in the photo) than the front part of the hinge. I couldn't really measure it but I stuck feeler gauges under each side just to get a rough idea and the left side is higher ~0.070". That isn't much but it would explain why my cuts always wander inwards, If that hinge is higher, the blade isn't coming down square.
The right side hinge that is lower also isn't square to the work surface, it is kicked back a few degrees.
Any of you guys agree that the hinge would be the problem?
This sucks and I really doubt HF would take it back after a year.
That side is visibly higher (no so much in the photo) than the front part of the hinge. I couldn't really measure it but I stuck feeler gauges under each side just to get a rough idea and the left side is higher ~0.070". That isn't much but it would explain why my cuts always wander inwards, If that hinge is higher, the blade isn't coming down square.
The right side hinge that is lower also isn't square to the work surface, it is kicked back a few degrees.
Any of you guys agree that the hinge would be the problem?
This sucks and I really doubt HF would take it back after a year.