is there a gasket between the tranny and motor??? and if so does it leak oil from there if that gasket is worn???

 

hmm...not sure about that - i want to say it's machined so that you dont need a gasket..im looking it up right now..il edit this post in a minute


EDIT: i did a quick check on http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com according the parts diagrams they dont show a gasket in between them - still a little unsure about it though, some shops may use like a liquid gasket or something like that. sorry if this doesn't help

 

Yes, if its engine oil that is leaking, its the rear main seal around the crankshaft, the trans has to come out to fix this $10 ~ $20 part.

 

ok so the gasket is like 20bucks right and the motor is out already so ill just replace.!!! but it was leakin bad!!! like 2 quarts a week or 2...!!

 

ahh - thought he was talking about a paper gasket

 

lol!! its kool!

 

umm thanks but that link u sent me didnt really help and there is a gasket from wat i been told and it is called the rear main seal.... look for that and it will prolly come up and ty for the time u took to research this..!!!

 

its porbably the rear main seal that is leaking. you need to drop the tranny and oilpand so you can change it

 

ok umm do i have to take the oil pan of??? cuz i just put a new gasket there cuz i thought it was leaking from there but it wasnt... and how many bolts r there on the tranny?? i got a gs-r engine and and gs-r tranny.

 

does the bolts on the clutch need to be torque???

 

Yes, its in the repair manual, dont take my word for it as I did not look it up, 35 ftlb, be careful, they break easy, look it up though and do a star pattern and make damn sure the disc is centered or you will be there for hours.

 

so ur sayin its a bitch to take off and put back on!!! i just need to replace a damn gasket lol!!! but if someone knows a step by step thread on replacing the rear main seal plz post the thread..

 

you dont have to take the pump off to change it. I just use a pick and work the gasket out just make sure that you only seat the new jasket in the same amount as the old one.

Its easy make sure to support the engine when removing the trans
1st: remove the trans
2nd: Remove the clutch
3rd: you need to remove the flywheel
4th: pry out the old seal
5th: seat the new seal in place but only as far in as the old seal.
6th: check clutch out if it needs replaced have the flywheel resurfaced.
7th: reinstall the flywheel and torqe to spec
8th: reinstall the clutch and trans
9th: make sure everything is reinstalled and torqued to spec. top off the oil and start the car.

Edit: the only real pain in the *** is everything has to come off to change a $5 seal.

 

thank u for that and when u say spec's the clutch need to be torqe down to like 24lb/ft and the flywheel will need to be center?? how would i do this... center the flywheel and the clutch is there a tool for this??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSR_hatch936 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank u for that and when u say spec's the clutch need to be torque down to like 24lb/ft and the flywheel will need to be center?? how would i do this... center the flywheel and the clutch is there a tool for this??</TD></TR></TABLE>
The flywheel is bolted to the crank with 6 or 8 bolts. then the clutch disc and pressure plate get installed with 6 bolts (i think its 6) there is an alignment tool for centering the clutch disc so the trans will slide on. If you buy a complete clutch kit it comes with the release bearing throw out bearing the clutch, pressure plate and the alignment tool.