want to turbo ek hatch with b18c5 engine. (usdm type r) What turbo should i go with and what parts should i purchase in order to NOT blow my motor? what psi should i run at? Want this to be fast but safe at the same time.

 

:shakeshead:

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2077396

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2049270

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2025179

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1994209 <---looks most like your question.


*source- https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch


:D

 

lol, had to add the waving guy for the extra SEARCH first jab.

 

change your pistons to low comp. ... id just sell the itr bottom end and buy a built gsr block you vould get a handfull for that itr bottom end. as far as kits go get a full-race or peak boost i plan on running the full-race stage III

 

id say sell the b18c5 motor for some good cash and grab you a gsr and use the rest of your money on that.

 

id say, sell the itr and buy a ls or a d series and go with boost on ither of them, alot better results.

 

why boost on gsr motor and not itr?

 

ITR is really high compression and that would not be good for boost. and imo if you mess up the ITR bottom end you are out of a good chunk of money.

 

What motor would be best to boost then? GSR?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16a3delsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ITR is really high compression and that would not be good for boost. and imo if you mess up the ITR bottom end you are out of a good chunk of money.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

 

You guys are pussies if you think an ITR has too high compression to boost.

 

Whatever you do, get it tuned properly.. That will determine how long your motor will last if its put together correctly as long as you're not making more power than the block can handle..

Also, I would keep the itr block for the higher compression to help spool.. Its going to be a bit harder to tune, but a professional tuner should be able to get it done correctly..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by homemadeturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You guys are pussies if you think an ITR has too high compression to boost.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And you're an ******* for trying to be aggressive and talking about things you don't understand.

ITR motors seem to respond well to something like a Rage header and JRSC. If it was my car / money, I wouldn't really want to go turbo, but it is your decision. Not to say I haven't seen it done, I just build cars for longevity, not max power.

 

After doing some research i found that the b18c5 has low compression rates, therefor not a great motor for forced induction. So if i went the ALL MOTOR route instead of turboing what would be included to accomplish this. I know ALL motor is no turbo or supercharger but more specifically does this include what parts.....Kinda of a silly/newb question sorry bout that but confused. Anyone help me out?

 

You are confused bud. B18C5 is a high compression motor. They are fine for turbo if you build it for that. If not turbo, you don't need anything to make it N/A. Thats what it is already.

 

You've got that backwards.. A B18C5 has a considerably high compression ratio compared to other honda motors..

Also low compression isnt necessarily better for forced induction.. Its just alot easier to tune than a high compression motor which alot people consider that better..

All motor consists of just that, the motor.. No power adder of any kind except for what the motor can make..

All motor is more expensive (depending on what you do) compared to forced induction, but its 99% of the time ALOT less of a headache..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ItsSlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
All motor is more expensive (depending on what you do) compared to forced induction, but its 99% of the time ALOT less of a headache..</TD></TR></TABLE>



I'd go NA. Seems like you're pretty new to things. Keep it simple. Honda allready bulletproofed it for you (as long as you stay NA). The B18C5 is an awesome motor. IMO, it's a waste of money to buy that motor if you just wanted to turbo it anyway. You could save a ton of money and buy an LS in that case.

I'm an NA guy, though. So im VERY biased lol.

 

hah woops i meant high comp. but yeah so in your oppionion should i go with all motor or turbo.

 

Turbo. And I have a B18C5. It was fun N/A for a while. But, just not comparable to turbo

 

okay well if i go turbo what can i do to the motor to ensure that it doesnt blow.

 

If you want to buy a factory reliable engine that you won't want to tear down and rebuild with expensive parts, buy a B18C5 swap and add simple bolt-ons. You'll get about 175-185whp, and still have 100% factory reliability. I have ran my B18C5 hard for over 5-6 years with zero engine issues ever, but I also didn't fuuck it up by trying to build it either. You cannot duplicate OE build qiality no matter what you try.

IMO stay away from the B18C5 if you plan on building either an N/A or boosted B motor.

Why?

Because you're going to tear it down and ruin it, and you'll be replacing the very parts that you paid more for than if you had just bought a regular GS-R swap. you'll be changing pistons, cams, possibly rods, etc. etc. - use the money saved on the GS-R swap towards the very N/A or boost internals you need.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BMRALR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay well if i go turbo what can i do to the motor to ensure that it doesnt blow. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't turbo it. Seriously.

All boosted Honda engines will blow up - it's just a question of when.

 

So if i go NO boost what "simple" bolt ons wil maximize my power?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BMRALR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So if i go NO boost what "simple" bolt ons wil maximize my power? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Intake, header, exhaust, cam gears, tunable ECU program - I make 178whp/130ft-lbs. of torque to the wheels in my 1998 B18C5 with these mods, and I've been driving it hard for over 5 years with zero issues.

Many people try mild GS-R builds with slightly higher compression, better cams, and still cannot get to the 180whp mark, and a lot of the smoke in the process because it's very hard to match the quality of a factory assembled engine.