ok, so i did the h23 manual tensioner conversion on my H22. not really hard now that i look back, but i have a couple questions.

Is what is to the right everything that is supposed to be left over?
Also those 3 parts on the left where do they go?


The stuff in the yelllow circle, is that where 90216-P0A-000 & 90501-MB7-610 go?
Also the baby blue circle, isnt there supposed to be some kind of bolt the scrws in there in order to "hold then tension manually"? i got some room on there on both side, like its not all the way maxed out.


Also, how tight to i tighten these bolts on? Like finger tight and then some more?
And one more question. I can wash down there, right? as long as the water n grease remove dosent get into where the valve cover usually is, its ok, correct?

Thanks for the help, and sorry if this is sorta a newb question to some of ya.

 

For that blue circle, YES put a 10mm bolt in there to hold it. I had mine slip once because there was no bolt there and aparently the other bolt couldn't hold it by itself.

 

Well the factory doesnt put a bolt in there, the Helms says to use one of the bolts that holds the covers on to keep it in place when you do t-belt work.

 

Maybe it's just how I am looking at it( yes I know it's not at TDC) but...you mght want to double check your timing before attempting to start that motor I think your off 2 maybe 3 teeth on the cam gears

 

Oh wow good call! re-align that thing! make sure your Crank pulley is lined up properly as well!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by md23vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe it's just how I am looking at it( yes I know it's not at TDC) but...you mght want to double check your timing before attempting to start that motor I think your off 2 maybe 3 teeth on the cam gears </TD></TR></TABLE>

md23vtec for the save!

noob question. do you have to take off the cover to adjust the tension? or is it the bolts that protrude the cover?

 

ok, soo ill put i bolt in there so it dosent go off of the adjuster plate thing.

Also, i know its not at TDC, i just put it back together to take pics to show.

Anyone know any of the answers to my other questions? like if i can wash/spray water down there, and what/where do those 1 parts go?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnD1079 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, soo ill put i bolt in there so it dosent go off of the adjuster plate thing.

Also, i know its not at TDC, i just put it back together to take pics to show.

Anyone know any of the answers to my other questions? like if i can wash/spray water down there, and what/where do those 1 parts go?</TD></TR></TABLE>

YOU can bend vavles rotating the crank doing that just so you know.

That washer and bolt are the same as the one u have circled in yellow. Just looks different either or will work. Rubber grommet goes on the same bolt AFTER the timing cover is installed to help prevent the cover from hitting that alternator/A/C belt and chewing up the timing cover.

I would just get some brake clean and spray that entire area down good. It looks like a previous timing belt was on too long and broke or was about to break and the belt frayed big time. Just my 2cents goodluck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by md23vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

YOU can bend vavles rotating the crank doing that just so you know.

That washer and bolt are the same as the one u have circled in yellow. Just looks different either or will work. Rubber grommet goes on the same bolt AFTER the timing cover is installed to help prevent the cover from hitting that alternator/A/C belt and chewing up the timing cover.

I would just get some brake clean and spray that entire area down good. It looks like a previous timing belt was on too long and broke or was about to break and the belt frayed big time. Just my 2cents goodluck </TD></TR></TABLE>

Really, i didnt know you could bent valves like that. Im pretty new to this timing thing, and how exactly everything works in the engine. What would you suggest doing for that?

Also what do you mean the belt frayed?Meaning streched? I didnt change the belt, i plan on doing that in the spring time when im going to finish everything i want to do to this car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnD1079 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Really, i didnt know you could bent valves like that. Im pretty new to this timing thing, and how exactly everything works in the engine. What would you suggest doing for that?

Also what do you mean the belt frayed?Meaning streched? I didnt change the belt, i plan on doing that in the spring time when im going to finish everything i want to do to this car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the timing belt is what keeps the pistons and valves "timed" in synch with one another.....if the timing is off, the valves will be pushing into the cylinders while the piston at the top of the cylinder. In interference motors (which the H22 is) the valves happen to overlap the area that the pistons can move. If they are there at the same time, your valves will be bent.

also, change your timing belt man. you've got the motor out of the car and the belt is like $50. It's 10X easier to change it now. it needs to be changed anyway, all of that black rubber behind it is part of the belt that has rubbed off. it's not hard to change, you've got to take it off anyway since it's out of timing. don't do it yourself if you aren't confident that you will get the timing correct.....even one tooth off and it will run like ***.

do a search and you should find a thread on here that shows how to install the timing belt if you aren't sure how to. but for sure man...change the belt while the motor is out. you will be cussing trying to change it while the motor is in the car.

 

i dunno man, i would change it now, but its hard haveing no job, and building your car at the same time. $50 will last me like 2 weeks, lol.

But im gonna be taking the motor out o nthe spring anyway. I wanna relocate those prake distributor things, and get new alum. wires.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnD1079 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But im gonna be taking the motor out o nthe spring anyway. I wanna relocate those prake distributor things, and get new alum. wires. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChrisRicketts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what?</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2....that seems like more than just trying to type in a hurry or something . Prake distributors? Aluminum wires?

 

well i have an accord. And the brake lines go from the master cylinder to these things that splits the lines, sorta make them a Y, and i wanna relocate that, and change them to aluminum lines. Plus its gonna be really easy to take out my motor with no accesorys anyway.