I put in new upper control arms, and now my steering wheel is really crooked. Is that normal? Do I just need an aligment? Also, my car is making noises, could that be because of a bad alignment too? I am sure all of the bolts are in tight.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by em96civicex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I put in new upper control arms, and now my steering wheel is really crooked. Is that normal? Do I just need an aligment? Also, my car is making noises, could that be because of a bad alignment too? I am sure all of the bolts are in tight.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if the wheel is crooked, then it's most likely due for a alignment, due to the work that was done.

when you say noise, what type of noise? clunking? rubbing?

 

omg! my car makes noises too
when i start it it's all like (wheirwhierherhwiehrie)
then when i'm driving it's like (rwwwwwwaaarrrrrrrrr)

dude!

 

clunking or knocking not rubbing

Thanks for your help!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instrument &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">omg! my car makes noises too
when i start it it's all like (wheirwhierherhwiehrie)
then when i'm driving it's like (rwwwwwwaaarrrrrrrrr)

dude!</TD></TR></TABLE>

lets stay on topic here! please!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by em96civicex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">clunking or knocking not rubbing

Thanks for your help!</TD></TR></TABLE>

if then your having a clunking noise, the nut on the upper ball joint is not tight enough. if you have a torque wrench it will make things alittle easier.

using the torque wrench, it should be torqued down to about 40 ft/lbs.
make sure you use a new cotter pin as well, in replace of the old one.

 

The steering was crooked because I didn't tighten the screws that adjusted the ball joints. I think the noise was because everything was so loose. Oneball joint popped in right away when I started driving, but the other didn't. I heard it pop a few times but I don't think it popped into place yet. I tightened the ball joint nut same as the other side, which was with all my strength and a regular socket wrench, probably not 40 ft/lbs. Is that because the nut isn't tight enough, or should I just wait for it to pop in?

 

Do not drive your car until all the bolts are tight and the ball joints are completely seated in the holes. You should not wait for them to "pop in". If any thing comes apart up there you'll pretty much lose all your steering. And you should always get a alingment after a job like that to make sure nothings out.

 

I tightened the bolts to 40 ft/lbs, but the one side ball joint is still not in place. Should I unscrew the nut and try again, or will they be able to push it into place when I get an alignment?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by em96civicex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I tightened the bolts to 40 ft/lbs, but the one side ball joint is still not in place. Should I unscrew the nut and try again, or will they be able to push it into place when I get an alignment? </TD></TR></TABLE>

what do you mean one side is still not in place? they should all be in. you need to tighten the castle nut at about 40 ft/lbs then use a new cotter pin and insert it into the holes on the threads of the ball joint.

which ball joint is not in? and never wait until they pop in, because they won't. you have to go back, jack the car back up position it right and tighten.

 

I thought it wasn't in place, but I guess it was. I took out the screws that adjust the ball joint and checked. I did torque the nuts to 40 ft/lb, so I think everything is fine. Only funny thing is the steering is crooked, but I'm going to go get an alignment tomorrow.

Thanks for your help, sorry I am so clueless. I am new to this stuff.

 

I did replace the cotter pins with new ones.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by em96civicex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did replace the cotter pins with new ones.</TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by em96civicex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thanks for your help, sorry I am so clueless. I am new to this stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats cool! glad to help!

 

Rember, when your alingment is off like that, it will wear out tire rather quickely. So get a alingment as soon as possible.

 

I'm having a simular problem. My upper control arms are hitting the inside of the wheel well because of the Adjustable camber kits that were installed. The camber kit makes the upper control arms stick out further. I have a lowered 90 Accord. What could I do to remedy this problem?