H23 Transmission Install
Okay guys, Put a new clutch and flywheel in and i'm having trouble getting the transmission to line up with the block. It's on for the most part. But, it just doesn't wanna snap in to place like it should. Every time I get the front to line up, the back is way off and vice-versa. I'm at a loss and I'm tired of laying under my car all day going in circles!
any ideas would are appreciated!!! I wanna use my new clutch and flywheel!
thanks in advanced!
any ideas would are appreciated!!! I wanna use my new clutch and flywheel!thanks in advanced!
I know man, lol I did my clutch last year and only put in an OEM, man....do I feel dumb now. Usually what happens is I finally get fed up with messing around with it and I violently shake it in various directions, and it somehow pops in to place. 
I really do need to invest in to a tranny jack. It would be a breeze if I had one.
Ugh, well it's about 9:45AM here in MN, so I better get out there and try to get this **** in!
Again, any tips, tricks or advice would be appreciated!

I really do need to invest in to a tranny jack. It would be a breeze if I had one.
Ugh, well it's about 9:45AM here in MN, so I better get out there and try to get this **** in!
Again, any tips, tricks or advice would be appreciated!
these trannys are a pain in the ***. one thing that helped me alot was i had a buddy spin the crank as i pushed on the trans, that helped alot for me, try that maybe it will help.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jiggle jiggle jiggle</TD></TR></TABLE>
i like to jiggle things, just not a prelude tranny.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvteclude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">these trannys are a pain in the ***. one thing that helped me alot was i had a buddy spin the crank as i pushed on the trans, that helped alot for me, try that maybe it will help.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes they are. lol. I tried that yesterday, but the tranny wasn't as lined up as it was by the end of the day. so I'll give that another whirl.
man...why can't trannys be easy...lol that could be suggestive sounding.
i like to jiggle things, just not a prelude tranny.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvteclude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">these trannys are a pain in the ***. one thing that helped me alot was i had a buddy spin the crank as i pushed on the trans, that helped alot for me, try that maybe it will help.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes they are. lol. I tried that yesterday, but the tranny wasn't as lined up as it was by the end of the day. so I'll give that another whirl.
man...why can't trannys be easy...lol that could be suggestive sounding.
most trannys are easy. i just did a clutch for an eclipse last week and it came right out and went right back in. i've never had as much trouble with any other like the preludes.
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I'm not kidding around, I've done plenty of transmission jobs on preludes. You need to get the input shaft in as far as you can, then jiggle it a little.
Just rotate it along the axis of the input shaft back and forth, it will eventually "click" into place and then all you need to do is line the dowels back up and the job is done.
Just rotate it along the axis of the input shaft back and forth, it will eventually "click" into place and then all you need to do is line the dowels back up and the job is done.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonvteclude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">most trannys are easy. i just did a clutch for an eclipse last week and it came right out and went right back in. i've never had as much trouble with any other like the preludes. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i've done plenty of dsm clutches and motor pulls. and you're right, they're a lot easier than ludes.i could have a dsm clutch done in just a few hours. this lude? it's a weekend job
yeah i've done plenty of dsm clutches and motor pulls. and you're right, they're a lot easier than ludes.i could have a dsm clutch done in just a few hours. this lude? it's a weekend job
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not kidding around, I've done plenty of transmission jobs on preludes. You need to get the input shaft in as far as you can, then jiggle it a little.
Just rotate it along the axis of the input shaft back and forth, it will eventually "click" into place and then all you need to do is line the dowels back up and the job is done.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm well i'll try that and get back to you! thanks!
Modified by UNEMPLOYED at 3:26 PM 10/27/2007
Just rotate it along the axis of the input shaft back and forth, it will eventually "click" into place and then all you need to do is line the dowels back up and the job is done.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm well i'll try that and get back to you! thanks!
Modified by UNEMPLOYED at 3:26 PM 10/27/2007
okay. I got the tranny in and bolted up, now i have one more issue.
does anyone have any tips or tricks for getting the drivers side cv? whenever i try to put it in, the half shaft joint pops out, which makes getting the hub back in to place damn near impossible. perferrably a solution that doesn't involve removing the hub, i know its possible cause i did it last time, but it seems my trick are outplayed for this car lol. thanks guys for all your help.
does anyone have any tips or tricks for getting the drivers side cv? whenever i try to put it in, the half shaft joint pops out, which makes getting the hub back in to place damn near impossible. perferrably a solution that doesn't involve removing the hub, i know its possible cause i did it last time, but it seems my trick are outplayed for this car lol. thanks guys for all your help.
for future reference, I usually remove the intermediate shaft and the halfshaft all as 1 unit, and let them dangle
anyways, go ahead and bolt the intermediate shaft to the block, and then attach the halfshaft to it there, pull the knuckle up some to get it out of the way, angle the outer cv joint upward, and slip it in, then get the lower ball joint back into place
anyways, go ahead and bolt the intermediate shaft to the block, and then attach the halfshaft to it there, pull the knuckle up some to get it out of the way, angle the outer cv joint upward, and slip it in, then get the lower ball joint back into place
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for future reference, I usually remove the intermediate shaft and the halfshaft all as 1 unit, and let them dangle
anyways, go ahead and bolt the intermediate shaft to the block, and then attach the halfshaft to it there, pull the knuckle up some to get it out of the way, angle the outer cv joint upward, and slip it in, then get the lower ball joint back into place</TD></TR></TABLE>
im a little confused on what you mean by the intermediate shaft and the halfshaft.
should i bolt the brace with three bolts on first???? or should i put the input shaft in to the transmission first? or the shaft in to the hub first. I dont want to remove the hub in fear that one or more bolts will snap.
anyways, go ahead and bolt the intermediate shaft to the block, and then attach the halfshaft to it there, pull the knuckle up some to get it out of the way, angle the outer cv joint upward, and slip it in, then get the lower ball joint back into place</TD></TR></TABLE>
im a little confused on what you mean by the intermediate shaft and the halfshaft.
should i bolt the brace with three bolts on first???? or should i put the input shaft in to the transmission first? or the shaft in to the hub first. I dont want to remove the hub in fear that one or more bolts will snap.
damn that little crown-like washer for the clutch line lawl. oh well, going to honda after class and gettin one. that's all that has to happen for this damn car to be done.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UNEMPLOYED »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
im a little confused on what you mean by the intermediate shaft and the halfshaft.
should i bolt the brace with three bolts on first???? or should i put the input shaft in to the transmission first? or the shaft in to the hub first. I dont want to remove the hub in fear that one or more bolts will snap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How the hell did you get the trans out like that, you just leave the axle in or something?
Intermediate means something that goes in between, the intermediate shaft goes in between the transmission and the halfshaft.
I always remove the knuckle, you won't break anything, the lower ball joint may be a bitch to get out though...
With the hub off, I always insert the intermediate shaft into the transmission, bolt the 3bolt bracket onto the block, put the female end of the halfshaft onto the intermediate shaft (if I even removed it) and then insert the splines into the hub, then replace the whole knuckle.
I'm not sure you're going to be able to get it together with the knuckle still in place, though if you do, it...as I typed this I tried to think of a physical possibility for this to work, and I don't think it will....
...and yes GOOD CALL on replacing that washer on the clutch line, it WILL leak if you don't
Next time, just unbolt that whole valve body thing and the slave cylinder from the trans, and pull them out of the way, then you don't have the brake fluid mess and you don't have to bleed it when you're done.
im a little confused on what you mean by the intermediate shaft and the halfshaft.
should i bolt the brace with three bolts on first???? or should i put the input shaft in to the transmission first? or the shaft in to the hub first. I dont want to remove the hub in fear that one or more bolts will snap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How the hell did you get the trans out like that, you just leave the axle in or something?
Intermediate means something that goes in between, the intermediate shaft goes in between the transmission and the halfshaft.
I always remove the knuckle, you won't break anything, the lower ball joint may be a bitch to get out though...
With the hub off, I always insert the intermediate shaft into the transmission, bolt the 3bolt bracket onto the block, put the female end of the halfshaft onto the intermediate shaft (if I even removed it) and then insert the splines into the hub, then replace the whole knuckle.
I'm not sure you're going to be able to get it together with the knuckle still in place, though if you do, it...as I typed this I tried to think of a physical possibility for this to work, and I don't think it will....
...and yes GOOD CALL on replacing that washer on the clutch line, it WILL leak if you don't
Next time, just unbolt that whole valve body thing and the slave cylinder from the trans, and pull them out of the way, then you don't have the brake fluid mess and you don't have to bleed it when you're done.
i ended up buying a new one. the old one ended up being blown out (which solved my vibration problem i think!). its all together, and she'll be up and running later this afternoon.
I'll add to the F1 Racing clutch/Flywheel thread, with a review soon!
I'll add to the F1 Racing clutch/Flywheel thread, with a review soon!
the clutch line on a 4th gen for an H23. There is the hard line that goes from the valve body to the slave cylinder. at the opposite end of the cylinder, it meets with the soft line and has a banjo bolt. it calls for a crush washer and on the underside, there is a crown-like washer that goes on the bottom of the fitting. Is there an alternate washer I can use? I tried putting a normal washer there and it leaks from the bottom. Any advice? or do I need to go to honda and get the factory part.
Okay, well I got the clutch in, and I got some issues with the clutch
What it is: F1 Racing Stage 3 clutch (6 puck) and an 8lb flywheel
Mileage on clutch: ~60
Issues: EXTREMELY soft pedal. It feels like an OEM. Is this normal for these? Other puck style clutches I have are nice and stiff. It also doesn't wanna engage and grab until the VERY end of the clutch pedal travel. Is this normal for these clutches? Again, other puck clutches I've had in the past grab right on the floor or damn near it.
-Jason
Modified by MN_BB4_Si at 5:31 PM 10/31/2007
What it is: F1 Racing Stage 3 clutch (6 puck) and an 8lb flywheel
Mileage on clutch: ~60
Issues: EXTREMELY soft pedal. It feels like an OEM. Is this normal for these? Other puck style clutches I have are nice and stiff. It also doesn't wanna engage and grab until the VERY end of the clutch pedal travel. Is this normal for these clutches? Again, other puck clutches I've had in the past grab right on the floor or damn near it.
-Jason
Modified by MN_BB4_Si at 5:31 PM 10/31/2007
does anyone know if an rsx 6 speed would work with an h23 if it had a custon fabbed adapter to make it bolt up like they make for the b series transmissions?
i've been asking around for a while, and no one seems to be able to give me a strait answer... also how far would the transmission have to be spaced with the adapter to make it work if it's possible?
i've been asking around for a while, and no one seems to be able to give me a strait answer... also how far would the transmission have to be spaced with the adapter to make it work if it's possible?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trulude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does anyone know if an rsx 6 speed would work with an h23 if it had a custon fabbed adapter to make it bolt up like they make for the b series transmissions?
i've been asking around for a while, and no one seems to be able to give me a strait answer... also how far would the transmission have to be spaced with the adapter to make it work if it's possible?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uggghhhh....if it had a custom made adaptor then of course it will bolt up. Will it have 6 speeds in reverse? Yes.
i've been asking around for a while, and no one seems to be able to give me a strait answer... also how far would the transmission have to be spaced with the adapter to make it work if it's possible?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uggghhhh....if it had a custom made adaptor then of course it will bolt up. Will it have 6 speeds in reverse? Yes.
you said you bought a new what, and it caused your vibration to stop, sorry to get off topic here but im haveing vibration problems, and will be changing trans here soon, can you explain what was shakeing, (axle or other)
i'm doing an engine swap in my 92 prelude, simply swapping for another h23 for now, but i was wondering would it make it easier to pull the engine and transmission together and put them back in together, or is it possible? thanks for the help




