.

 

what you wanna do after the port an polish do you want to go k someday or boost. because unless you do one of the 2 your car will always be slow. lol so imo save your money for bigger and better things. if you boost worry about the porting later

 

if it indeed is true, 15WHP is pretty good for 400 bucks. hell, alot of B series motors wouldnt even see that with 400 bucks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bakerboy0642 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He said he's done 2 hondas before that got dynod after, and it showed 12-15 WHEELhp, which i thought was pretty insane for a little port and polish, but does it really make that much of a difference?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i bet you he hasnt done OUR hondas.

 

leaving the thing NA, nothing is worth the money. To get any use out of a P&P (assuming its not just hogged out, but done right with a flow bench and all that stuff), you'd need a new intake manifold, a huge cam, a crazy header and a 8000+ RPM redline. To hit 8K plus, you need rods bigger than the toothpick stockers, to use non stock rods, you need non stock pistons. Your $400 project just added another 0 or more.
Boring the block will do nothing major either. Using 76mm stock slugs does nothing but waste your 2 useable overbores before the engine needs to be resleeved. In doing so, you gain a whopping 3 cubic inches of displacement. That may be good for 1/2 a HP.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boilermaker1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">leaving the thing NA, nothing is worth the money. To get any use out of a P&P (assuming its not just hogged out, but done right with a flow bench and all that stuff), you'd need a new intake manifold, a huge cam, a crazy header and a 8000+ RPM redline. To hit 8K plus, you need rods bigger than the toothpick stockers, to use non stock rods, you need non stock pistons. Your $400 project just added another 0 or more.
Boring the block will do nothing major either. Using 76mm stock slugs does nothing but waste your 2 useable overbores before the engine needs to be resleeved. In doing so, you gain a whopping 3 cubic inches of displacement. That may be good for 1/2 a HP.</TD></TR></TABLE>

screw intake mani get some custom ITB's

Listen to boiler he has a nicely built D17

 

displacement is how much volume your cylinders can move all together.

compression ratio is how much volume you have at the bottom of the cylinder when the piston is at BDC versus volume at TDC

edit: brief enough for yuns?

 

Well I pretty much just told you everything that needed to be done. A port and polish with nothing else is useless. You're gonna need to build a monster to get anything out of this thing without boosting it, and you're going to need to rev the living **** out of it. The stock bottom end has been proven incapable of doing that...so pretty much plan on buying everything... or nothing.

 

How muc would a p&p cost over here on the east coast??(New Jersey... its too ******* expensive here).. im thinking of boostin hopefully in the spring want to hit 10psi

 

Well, i'm in for seeing how this goes...

 

me too...post before and after..

 

i myself would like to know if the 400 would really make that much of a difference.

 

Dyno it before and after, whp will be the only way to tell the true effects.

 

hey boiler you are located in DC right? any good shops in that metro area for our cars? im thinking k-swap, build then boost. Then drive back to colorado. know ant realy good ones?

 

not that many great shops in this area...

 

ummm..... My friend from back there has a b18 in his Integra with some nice numbers that he had done at a shop there. Also allot more Hondas and tuned imports in the metro area than here in Colorado. Only one shop that can even tune hondata and they are up in Denver. Had a shop that could do engine swaps but they stopped due to money.

Where do you and boiler and the rest of the metro area gang go to?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vermont &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey boiler you are located in DC right? any good shops in that metro area for our cars? im thinking k-swap, build then boost. Then drive back to colorado. know ant realy good ones?</TD></TR></TABLE>

National Tire and Battery in Rockville

I dont know of many shops, since I build motors in my closet, and drop them in at NTB. A lot of them are kinda jank and mess **** up, you gotta be careful especially when it comes to stuff like that. All of us do our own work around here, none of us go to shops (other than NTB, but thats because Edwin (skipbarber) works there. I think he may have done the final NTB swap though, the shop manager keeps changing and the current guy is a real d-bag. Anyone is gonna be able to do the K swap, anyone is gonna be able to boost it, its the tuning you gotta be leary about.
For one stop shopping, I'd probably take it to Tempest Racing in Mechanicsville, Md.
You can also take it to Agile Auto in Bel Air (north of Baltimore). Its primarily a Subaru shop, they've done a fair bit to my car and they do really good work. Youd have to call them and see if they'd be interested in doing it. Beyond that, get a phone book, start calling and asking who's done K-swaps. I'd avoid Inline Pro, I kknow a couple people who's cars they've messed up pretty good.