now if u had a 95 civic with a D series already in it, would you keep it in or swap it for a B-series?

 

What are your HP goals ?

The B will take you further.

BTW How deep are your pockets?

 

as well as is it your DD or your race car lol?

 

gonna be a drag car hopefully, just one i can take to the track, little project car... and im not sure how deep the pockets are, and im tryin to run sum high 12s low 13s

 

what kind of d-series do you have in that car? in my oppinion a built do can do that easy with the right tire set up.

 

Drag car? unless your'e going turbo-D fully built you won't see 12's without a 5-digit bank account... My advice is to find an inexpensive B-series and drop teh sucka in.

Ive seen an LS with cam, header, and ecu (WITH the crap ls tranny) in an EK coupe run low 13's with good rubber no prob. Theres a dude around here selling a COMPLETE LS with tranny and ecu for $200 (theyre dime for the dozen) and it runs like a champ. + mounts and axles youre still under $1,200. Also, for qucik boosted power LS is a great motor beacuse theyre easy to tune and handle 11PSI day in and day out. and when you get the itchin for more power slap a B16 head on it and schebam!! 12's? I think so!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all_motorsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Drag car? unless your'e going turbo-D fully built you won't see 12's without a 5-digit bank account... My advice is to find an inexpensive B-series and drop teh sucka in.

Ive seen an LS with cam, header, and ecu (WITH the crap ls tranny) in an EK coupe run low 13's with good rubber no prob. Theres a dude around here selling a COMPLETE LS with tranny and ecu for $200 (theyre dime for the dozen) and it runs like a champ. + mounts and axles youre still under $1,200. Also, for qucik boosted power LS is a great motor beacuse theyre easy to tune and handle 11PSI day in and day out. and when you get the itchin for more power slap a B16 head on it and schebam!! 12's? I think so!</TD></TR></TABLE>

pshhh my ***, try a built D with a 3 grand or so turbo set up that is around 5 grand total and maybe some slicks and good axles and for 5-6g's you have a 12ish give or take a second.

 

forgot to mention that the LS- EK coupe that runs low 13's is completely gutted i mean GUTTED. so a full interior car would probally see ~13.8

 

i think i might go with a b18b vtec, sc61 precision turbo, neukin exhaust mani and downpipe, tial b/o and wastegate... dont kno about cams or intake mani...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by big-cat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

pshhh my ***, try a built D with a 3 grand or so turbo set up that is around 5 grand total and maybe some slicks and good axles and for 5-6g's you have a 12ish give or take a second.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok.. but which is the better platform to build? a FULLY BUILD D series can push about 25-27PSI with careful tuning and make 440-470WHP

Contrary, a fully built B series can handel about 27-30PSI and makes upwards of 580HP. with the same boost. its a better motor! better stroke geometry, better head design, this argument has been going on forever and B series ALLWAYS WINS!!! there are some impressive D-series out there but i mean come ON!! its the same friggin argument with K series VS B series.... K series will ALLWAYS WIN!! its a better motor! engineers dont spend billions of dollars designing and perfecting new engines with new technology for NOTHING!! **** K20A2 fully built GT28RS FMIC H20/Methanol inj @ 30PSI. BAM. smoke all yo D and B series.

Technology&gt;anything your ghetto ricer friends told you.

 

As I said before the B will take you further.

This is coming from the owner of the highest HP D16z6 on the planet. Well, used to own, we sold it and are going B and moving up to Hot Rod.

Would do a K but can't afford the tranny issues.

 

cool, cool, cant wait to get that B18b swapped in there gonna be sweet!

 

Bad question.

You're gonna ask 40 different people and get 40 different answers.

It's ALL up to the person. Some people say "go D, always D" - some people say "get that D outta there, swap B" - some people say "swap H" - if you're inventive enough you'd be smart enough to F - then there's a conglomerate of tools that'll say swap a K in there, etc. etc.

There's no "what should you do."

YOU (and only you) can make this decision ALL BY YOURSELF.

First:
What is your budget - you can't plan a 8,000 dollar K swap if you have 800 in the bank.

Second:
How much mechanical knowledge do you have - can you do this in your garage, or do you need to take it to a shop (going rate for labor is ~60/hr).

Third:
What is the car going to be used for?
A K swap might be practical budget permitted for autocrossing, but a boosted B is more practical for straight line/peak HP numbers.

Once you answer all these, then you can try to decide and weigh your options based on what's given. This is a useless *** thread and will just result in people arguing about which is better, B or D, which has been done countless times in the past - and if you bothered to search, you'd find plenty of topics arguing about which is better - all coming to no conclusion.

So answer those three questions (to yourself) - then weigh your options and decide from there. There's no "better."

I have a stock *** D16Y8 w/ I/H (took the exhaust off for the college year as it would just attract attention), B&M ST shifter bought & soon to go in, lowered 2", 99/00 tails, few other minor things - and it's GREAT.

Why? Because I'm not racing, I don't need 400whp at my command. I need it to get me from point A to point B while earning optimal gas mileage and not completely sucking dick in the power dept (the Y8 has enough power to screw around with). So for my purposes the engine's great, 100%, etc. etc. Though for Rodney who AutoX's - this may not work AT ALL for him.

Find out what you need it for, weigh it against your budget, decide how much each "option" will cost, then make your decision.

And please, search, you think you're the first newbie to come through here asking what he should do with his stock civic engine because it doesn't put out power worth of dick? Not by a long-shot, chief. Go search through past threads, research, price things, etc. etc.

Don't expect people to do the work for you. YOU need to decide what you want, YOU need to decide what you need, YOU know the budget, and YOU can do the research which will tell you what's feasible and what's not - then if you have any particular questions, you come on back and make a thread about it. Don't just come in here and ask though "what should I do with..." as that's 100% vague and nobody could answer that "truthfully" - only throw around a bunch of useless opinions.

As my Materials Testing teacher always says: "don't put at all in your report 'I think that...' - what you think isn't important, nobody gives 2 ***** what you think, it's what the data shows..."

Same deal here, peoples' opinions don't mean anything until you got some cold, hard, facts about what you need, budget, usage, etc. established.

In the meanwhile, this thread is useless.

 

go b series and you'll never turn back. i went from a d16y8 (basically the best d series) to an ls, basically the worst b series (although someone will argue) and i still would never go back to a d series. or you could just boost the d, but the b will always have more potential

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMeg95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go b series and you'll never turn back. i went from a d16y8 (basically the best d series) to an ls, basically the worst b series (although someone will argue) and i still would never go back to a d series. or you could just boost the d, but the b will always have more potential</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can I Get an Amen!@!

 

go with b-series if you plan on shooting for lower than 10's in the 1/4. if your an average joe with car's like myself go D. plus.......D is the under dog if you beat a B with a D

 

Cripes, why do most people spout their personal opinions, which are often laden with fiction, and never just address the questions asked by the OP or take their stated goals into consideration? Jeez.

He specifically stated "high 12's or low 13's" in the 1/4 mile. At what point did the capabilities of a wild fully built D motor making 470whp, costing 5-figures, vs a B-series that is even more money and making more power, trying to run lower than 10's ever become useful to this discussion?

His goals can be accomplished on a stock-block D-series turbo for less than $3000. In fact if he's in a gutted EG hatch it can be done with an all-motor D16, it's been done already for close to the same budget but it's more labor intensive.

I have a B, but I respect the capability of the other Honda engines. You don't have to hate on any motor you don't own, and if you choose to be a hater at least don't be ignorant. Know something about it before talking down about it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by klungemonger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cripes, why do most people spout their personal opinions, which are often laden with fiction, and never just address the questions asked by the OP or take their stated goals into consideration? Jeez.

He specifically stated "high 12's or low 13's" in the 1/4 mile. At what point did the capabilities of a wild fully built D motor making 470whp, costing 5-figures, vs a B-series that is even more money and making more power, trying to run lower than 10's ever become useful to this discussion?

His goals can be accomplished on a stock-block D-series turbo for less than $3000. In fact if he's in a gutted EG hatch it can be done with an all-motor D16, it's been done already for close to the same budget but it's more labor intensive.

I have a B, but I respect the capability of the other Honda engines. You don't have to hate on any motor you don't own, and if you choose to be a hater at least don't be ignorant. Know something about it before talking down about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, it's all personal opinions.

I'm not sure which is more pathetic, the people arguing about D vs B series motors here, or the OP who I reported this post to ignoring it and not locking this topic - which is just a general discussion and debate over which is better which has no tech value what-so-ever as it's just a conglomerate-expletive-fest of peoples' opinions.

Bad question, throw this **** in the general debate forum, that's about all it's good for.

 

this question gets asked every other day