So i've had the mini me workin for like 2 weeks now and im finally gettin around to installing the rpm activated switch to activate vtec. using the info from this link http://crx.honda-perf.org/arti....html . I've got everything hooked up as they say right, except for wiring the batt power and ign controlled power together so that both come on with ignition. cant imagine that it would matter correct? anyway i've checked that those connections are getting power at the relay, they are. the switch is on and the red light inside the unit that indicates it has power is also on. Therefore that leads me to test the tach input wire. im not sure what voltage i should get from it but while running i get about 12 volts. Its the blue wire coming off the two prong connector on the distributor so i dont see how i coulda messed up as far as getting the right wire. I also tested the connection on the relay that when receiving the ground signal is supposed to make the vtec solenoid wire receive 12v. i applied a ground to it to bypass the yellow ground output wire from the rpm switch and that did kick on the solenoid i believe. relay clicked, hear a click in engine bay, and the green light came on inside the rpm switch. again this leads me back to the tach lead which as far as i can tell is hooked up properly. So basically right now it just wont kick on. i rev it up past the rpm it should kick on and i get nothing all the way up to 7000 rpm. dip switches are set at 2600 in the box so that it will kick in at 5200rpm. dividing number by 1/2 since this is a 4cyl not an 8 like it was designed for, and plus thats what the writeup says to do lol. Soooo can someone please help me. i know this is a lot to read but it should prevent unnecessary questions being asked if i just tell you everything i can think of now


(also want to mention the d15b7 92-95 civic dx/lx belt is TOO large! the belt smacks the front side of the engine mount while engine is at diff rpms. i'm assuming i need the y8 belt)

 

Hows your ground?

 

what do you mean. the ground for the rpm switch itself is tightened securely beneath a big **** bolt with a spade connector. The problem is the yellow wire never sends out a ground signal once reaching or surpassing 5200rpm and the green light never comes on to signal that the unit is even getting a tachometer reading.

 

The unit uses the ground as a reference to the voltage increase on the tach wire. So if it isn't good(too much resistance) than it wont work.

 

hmmm ok. i've got nothing else to try right now so i guess i can remount it to something else and see if anything changes.

 

was the unit worling before install

 

i assume it worked beforehand i had no way to test it besides hook it up and see. I bought it brand new from summitracing so i cant imagine why itd be broken. at this point it seems like it may be the ground, or maybe the wire thats supposed to be 12v always on batt is ign controlled and maybe it wont work like that for some reason. i dunno but its all i have to go on at this point

 

what you are doing sounds like more of a pain in the *** than wiring it up the correct way.

i gotta go back and re-read your original post a few times too.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D16SiHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

(also want to mention the d15b7 92-95 civic dx/lx belt is TOO large! the belt smacks the front side of the engine mount while engine is at diff rpms. i'm assuming i need the y8 belt)</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's already been established if you read through the FAQs...


THE D16Z6 timing belt is the correct belt to use with a B7 block / Z6 head combination.

 

every faq and anywhere else i looked no one gave a for sure answer on what to use. I had a thread awhile back when i was talking about doing the swap and i received mix replies. check it out yourself https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2035151 Some people said use the b7 belt and others said no and to use the y8 belt. so i had a 50/50 chance and apparently this wasn't the correct belt. Also i should mention, i used the z6 write up but i was doing a y8 swap.

 

Get a vtec ecu and wire it in correctly. You should have done that from the start.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loudandlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a vtec ecu and wire it in correctly. You should have done that from the start. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Im sorry, but I gotta agree with this guy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Im sorry, but I gotta agree with this guy.</TD></TR></TABLE> You arn't sorry, you traded that feeling for a Mel Ott repo rookie card and a bag of spicy beef jerky.

You are right just do it right or don't do it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loudandlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a vtec ecu and wire it in correctly. You should have done that from the start. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Or at least make it less getto , you can use a ps9 ecu for 1 wire vtec and have it chipped with a map for your particlar engine combo and still stay obdo