i got a 95 integra LS with a b16a motor b16 tranny with lsd. The problem is that it is not as fast as i thought it would be. It has a p28 stock ecu and it sux. how can i get more torque or more power to the motor without boosting it?

 

Do You hAve Intake
Headers.. A full Exhaust should help.

 

i have an intake, stock exhaust manifold, and 2.5 piping

 

Get some headers..
Get some 4-to-1 one Peice.. Those are best for top end and you will notice the difference.
Those Ebay headers for $60 dont seem so bad seeing as all they did as copy the desighn of name brands like DC and Vibrant. (dont get chrome) its gay!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AnDy327 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get some headers..
Get some 4-to-1 one Peice.. Those are best for top end and you will notice the difference.
Those Ebay headers for $60 dont seem so bad seeing as all they did as copy the desighn of name brands like DC and Vibrant. (dont get chrome) its gay! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, but the ebay headers use cheaper materials, and not so great welds.

Just remember, you get what you pay for (unless you make it yourself)

 

no boost? get a b20 bottom end and good parts for a b20-vtec build, and call it a day......

either way ditch the b16, or at least keep the head and build a LS-V/b20v the RIGHT way

 

Find a GSR block and take out your 1.6 block.

 

My first upgrade would be a good header, and that doesn't mean something for $150 from eBay. Look at the Toda header. It's not inexpensive, but it's one of the best available for the B16A, and if you're trying to extract as much power as possible out of your engine without forced induction, you need to select top-quality parts.

 

For two or three of those that responded to this thread, it is a header, we have one and only one head. So avoid sounding like a "noob" and stop making it plural.

To answer your question OP, there are about a hundred different things you could do? What are your goals, your budget?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AWD Terror &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yea, but the ebay headers use cheaper materials, and not so great welds.

Just remember, you get what you pay for (unless you make it yourself)</TD></TR></TABLE>

meh. I bought an ebay header for my GSR since it's just my daily and my stock manifold cracked. Works great. Welds are real nice. It's actually a VERY nice, strong peice. The stainless steel is actually....well...stainless. I'm sure it doesn't make any power. But I just wanted to replace my stock manifold.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My first upgrade would be a good header, and that doesn't mean something for $150 from eBay. Look at the Toda header. It's not inexpensive, but it's one of the best available for the B16A, and if you're trying to extract as much power as possible out of your engine without forced induction, you need to select top-quality parts. </TD></TR></TABLE>


The Toda header is good. Real good. But if this guy is just trying to make some good street numbers, I think the cost might be over kill. I think I'd take the 2-5hp hit and buy a DC 4-1 for $1k less. If this was a cost no object awesome race motor build that I was trying to get every ounce of HP out of...I'd go toda or hytech or something else expensive that made the most power regardless of price.

OP: Expect to gain between 5-10hp from any given header. Throw in some CTR cams and springs, and an ITR or skunk2 intake manifold (the cheap Intake manifolds do have bad manufacturing processes...in real life) and maybe either a VAFC2 or just a CTR ECU. You'll make some good power and maintain driveability very well.

OEM power parts are very nice. They're designed to go the distance, and they do make very good power while still retaining good emissions output and daily driveability.

 

cost is no option for a header...headertech! best header ever. good luck finding one though.

good cheap header bang for buck...knock off hytech in the sponsor marketplace for 350.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AnDy327 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get some headers..
Get some 4-to-1 one Peice.. Those are best for top end and you will notice the difference.
Those Ebay headers for $60 dont seem so bad seeing as all they did as copy the desighn of name brands like DC and Vibrant. (dont get chrome) its gay! </TD></TR></TABLE>

An ebay header isnt even worth the $60 because its most likely going to break soon after. The DC and Vibrant header isnt all that great header either, but it is an upgrade.

first problem OP, you have a b16 in a DC. A b16 in a hatch or crx would be ook, but an integra is a different story. Sure the EM1 is like a b16 integra but those are a joke when it comes to speed. Youre not going to make any torque with that b16. i/h/e isnt going to do much honestly. If you want to stay n/a than id suggest at least a 1.8L block. If you want to boost than youd be fine keeping the b16.

 

Eh, to get "decent" power, I say intake, header, exhaust, some good cams and a good tune...

 

i would get 4-2-1 to help you on the midend on the b16 and maybe exh, intake and a tune up wouldnt hurt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIC_jdm_da9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would get 4-2-1 to help you on the midend on the b16 and maybe exh, intake and a tune up wouldnt hurt</TD></TR></TABLE>

midrange on a B16A is a lost cause. Top end is the motor's only strength. Play on that. Forget low end or midrange. You'll never use it when you're trying to go fast anyway.

OP: A B16A in a DC is the reason your car is so slow. I just read you had it in a 95 integra. Even a b18c1 in a DC is slow without some good mods. However, I think if you got a B18C longblock, and just bolted it to a B16A trans, it'd be a really quick car. B16As should be reserved for hatchboxes and CRXes.