ok this is now the second motor which i have went through. both of these motors lasted no longer than a week. 1 was a d16a6 the other a d15b7. i slapped my turbo on, which i believe to be the culprit. im using a standard tuner toys block T for the oil pressure sending unit and oil feed. with optional oil press guage tap. anyways the other motor spun a bearing and shreadded metal all into my oil pan. i cleaned it with parts cleaner and pressure washed all the stuff out. well both motors were ran n/a for a couple of days until i could get around to install all the piping and oil supply. well both times the oil light would come on and stay on then not far behind my car turns into a diesel, at least sounds like one. and i took the oil cap off and no oil spewing eveywhere. just loud valve ticking and bottom end nosie. so what is going on, why does the oil pump i guess keep going out.? im tired of pulling these motors in an out, its getting old. some one help me solve this problem for good. oh and both motors were around 100k miles and sat around for awhile. some one help me

 

My guess is on the first motor the boost caused you to spin a rod bearing, prolly over revved it and on the second one the oil pump just craped out. Tip for 3rd time... take your time, change out as much as possible to new honda OEM parts i.e. water pump, oil pump, timing belt, belt tensioner, so on and so forth. Do these things and you should have no big problems... Oh yeah tuning, tuning, tuning. Make sure you get that thing tuned cause if you tune it on the butt dyno it's gonna cost you your ***!

 

well, lets say i do that and it happens again. could there be any other possible reasons for loss of oil pressure. im not made of money and i want to get this **** right this time around you know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fin781 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, lets say i do that and it happens again. could there be any other possible reasons for loss of oil pressure. im not made of money and i want to get this **** right this time around you know. </TD></TR></TABLE>

There shouldn't be any other reason for loss of oil pressure... after you change the oil pump, check for oil leaks anywhere on the motor if you have any fix them, make sure your oil guage works along with the oil pressure switch and light, make sure you have the oil. PS should've got it right the first time around... lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UNDER PRESSURE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PS should've got it right the first time around... lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe the old saying goes "A ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure".

Is it just a bone stock motor you're puttin in each time? If anything I'd say it's more over the age of the motors then anything else. Get something as low miles as possible to prolong your engine life, and yes tuning is huge, nothing kills a motor quicker then running lean (well except for a rod letting go @ 9k).

You said both the motors had been sitting for a while... did you prime anything to make sure there was proper lubrication during startup?

 

bingo, NO. so it wasnt really loud knocking at shut off, i noticed a smell. so i stoped, it sounded like loud valve ticking, but not tremendously loud, i dont think it spun a bearing this time. so do u think priming it could be the problem

 

maybe your oil line has a hole in it... do you have an oil pressure gauge?

if i was you i would get a gauge before you start the next one up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fin781 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bingo, NO. so it wasnt really loud knocking at shut off, i noticed a smell. so i stoped, it sounded like loud valve ticking, but not tremendously loud, i dont think it spun a bearing this time. so do u think priming it could be the problem</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes you always want to prime a motor before actual start up. You could turn it manually while the engine is still out of the car by turning the crank or if you already have it in the engine bay you could pull the ecu fuse and turn the key a few times.

Honda engines tend to go to "sleep" after having them sit for awhile valve could stick, injectors could get backed up...

 

so would you say it is a mere couincedence that both times i didnt prime it the motor went out, it wasnt becuase the turbo. becus the same setup was on a 300k d16a6 and it lasted for almost a year until i swapped it. so replace the oil pump, prime it, get an oil pressure guage and hope for the best

 

a turbo would have to be dumping oil either into the hot or cold side to make that much oil dissappear, in which case you car would smoke like a banshee or you would have a very oily charge pipe. Either way I'd say its the no prime. If you're doing a oil pump on your next motor, might as water pump and timing belt while you're at it.

 

OK i pulled the turbo off, returned the motor to n/a and installed an oil pressure guage, it ides at 30 psi but when i hit the gas and hold it at the launch control it goes to 90 i really dont think that is right, so ima invest in another one, but it does have oil pressure now.

 

your oil pump is fine.

 

SO WOULD YOU GUESS THE TURBO WAS FOR SOME REASON ROBBING OIL PRESSURE FROM THE HEAD. BUT THERE WAS SHAVINGS FROM MY BEARINGS IN MY OLD OIL PAN. IM LETTING IT IDLE AND ITS NOT KNOCKING BUT I PLAN ON REPLACING THE BEARINGS ASAP.

 

dude. what?

somethings wrong in your set up.... what weight oil are you using.

 

this is an old post, but the problem was i used the wrong oil sump and it was bottom'd out, and was robbing the oil from the pump over time caused failure to the motor, this is crutial when swapping oil pans and pumps. make sure you have the right setup