97 hatch, had 11.8" rsx front rotors redrilled, used rsx-s calipers, and for the rears I have the 10.3" ep3 rotors with rsx-s calipers. after doing the swap and bleeding the hell out of all 4 corners (rr,lr,fl,fr) with new ATE superblue brake fluid, absolutely no pedal pressure at all. Bled again, no predal pressure. Bought a reman 98+ type R master cylinder, and replaced. Bled the hell out of all 4 corners again, and no pedal pressure. Still running the stock brake booster. What the heck is going on here? Should I buy speed bleeders and just go to town again? Switch back to honda OE brake fluid? This is not my first time dealing with brakes, probably like the 20th. any ideas guys?

oh i forgot to mention, even when the car is turned off, and pumping the brake pedal, it never builds any pressure hardly at all


Modified by crexer at 5:23 PM 10/21/2007

 

 

check for any leaks anywhere in the lines.. check the prop valve.. if its loose pressure fails.

 

no leaks, did not change prop. valve

 

it would still build pressure with the old prop valve, you sure no lines are leaking??

did u start in the right rear??

make sure alll the air was out on each caliper?

make sure no lines, caliper seals are leaking

also did u pre bleed the master before installing into car???

is that brake fluid a silcone base fluid??..

 

Okay heres my input.
First, the proper bleeding sequence is RR, FL, RL, FR. Hondas do not go farthest to closest.
Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before install?
You don't need speed bleeders, this ITR track racer taught me a trick. When you connect the bleeder hose, run it upward and loop it through the topmost coil of your spring. What this does is give you like a foot of hose pointing straight up. When you pump the pedal by yourself over and over (I assume you don't let the MC get below the minimum on fluid and the cap is off), the fluid and bubbles come out, but when you release the brake pedal, only fluid is sucked back in, because bubbles are air and go upward in that hose (thanks to gravity).
Now you have RSX rear calipers on what I assume is a CRX. Are your e-brakes in tact? If so, I bet you had to change those bits and pieces, and your rear calipers are swapped right to left. This means the bleeder points down when the car drives. when you bleed, you need to have the caliper's bleeder point upward. I suggest you get your old pads and duct tape them in the caliper's throat so when you bleed, its got something to clamp on, or the piston would come all the way out if you know what i mean.
Yes you may use an entire quart on the car if the brake system was bone dry. do the whole car by this order and see if there is pressure. if there is but the pedal is not rock hard with the engine off, rebleed by that sequence.
Air bubbles are a bitch!

 

Not all Hondas use the same bleed sequence. It depends on the model and year, presence of ABS or not, etc.

You should refer to the factory repair manual for bleeding sequence on your particular car.

 

True, let me double check my 88-91 manual. that order is for EGs and EKs.

 

Yes, same for the CRX. That is the proper bleeding sequence.

 

the car is a 97 civic hatch, and yes the rear rsx calipers are swapped, with the bleeders pointing down! I think that may be my problem, so if I take the rear calipers off and put say a block of wood in between the piston and face the bleeders upward this will most likely correct my issue?

 

yeah it should. If you bleed em with the bleeder pointing down, youll likely have an air pocket in the caliper that won't come out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrakeExpert &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah it should. If you bleed em with the bleeder pointing down, youll likely have an air pocket in the caliper that won't come out.</TD></TR></TABLE>