Well i finally got to a dyno today got me a good baseline to start out with. Needs some good tuning lol im happy with the numbers (except 4k-5k) i pulled basically stock. gunna go back down there when i get my euro r in from rosko and put the 70mm tb on and pick me up a p28 and tune it on crome. Tell me what yall think


176whp/146wtq


Vid:



Mods:
Jdm h22a
Ebay cold air intake /w BPi and K&N
Ebay Header (cheapo)
2.5" Ebay "high flow cat"
2.5" SNL twinloop muffler
2.25" crush bent piping
NGK plugs and wires
Exedy stage 2
8lb fidnaza

thats about it. let me have yalls feedback. a side not that was very interesting. they wernt running air fuel at the event and strangely when i got on the dyno it started reading air fuel lol. with everything unplugged. kinda funny i know its not my real a/f but just funny how it was pulling numbers and high ones at that. 14.8 @ idle 16.? at vtec lol. next person got on dyno...no a/f . also turns out i need a bracket for my ignition coil its not bolted down so its not grounding right...think that might have something to do with the spikes?

Modified by M2B4 at 4:43 AM 10/21/2007


Modified by M2B4 at 11:12 AM 10/22/2007


Modified by M2B4 at 11:14 AM 10/22/2007

 

looks like a good start. engine looks healthy

 

Get that coil bolted down, something weird is up with it somehow, that bumpiness in the curve is misfiring.

The torque seems pretty low in the bottom end, do your IABs work correctly?

 

Yeah, I noticed the smoothing is set to 5, and still the curve is very bumpy. Not good.

 

cant really expect perfection on that setup.
if he already had the chipped+tuned p28 then yeah.
i would disconnect the vacume from the fuel regulator. might make more power. also maybe little more timing wouldn't hurt, via advancing the dizzy

i would not add the intake and throttle unless you get it tuned at the same time.

also the flywheel has something to do with also

 

unplugging the fuel regulator and moving the base timing around is a horrible way of pulling more WOT power out of a car, driving it around town will waste a ton of gas and foul plugs.

Changing base timing will throw off the whole map, and partial throttle will run horrible.

 

you are correct.

 

yeah it was very spiky on the computer before it was smoothed . i knew i had a misfire problem and i never found the cause until hopefully now completely overlooked that. as far as the iabs im not sure if there working right lol never looked at em euro r will fix that tho . i was surprised to not see any of my hesitation around 3k that i always have. almost wondering if it hesitated later causing that drop between 4 and 5k? or do you guys think thats from the ignition issues?

also is it normal 4 power to drop off around 6900?

edit: really looking at the graph i can tell those misfires now lol same exact dips and spikes on tq and hp lines looks like ima fab a bracket from home depot today.


Modified by M2B4 at 12:47 PM 10/21/2007

 

yeah that's right

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M2B4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah it was very spiky on the computer before it was smoothed . i knew i had a misfire problem and i never found the cause until hopefully now completely overlooked that. as far as the iabs im not sure if there working right lol never looked at em euro r will fix that tho . i was surprised to not see any of my hesitation around 3k that i always have. almost wondering if it hesitated later causing that drop between 4 and 5k? or do you guys think thats from the ignition issues?

also is it normal 4 power to drop off around 6900?

edit: really looking at the graph i can tell those misfires now lol same exact dips and spikes on tq and hp lines looks like ima fab a bracket from home depot today.


Modified by M2B4 at 12:47 PM 10/21/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

You will almost never get a "hesitation" like you have under WOT unless you have a very serious problem.

 

what kinda problems you think are causing that drop in 4-5k? i fabbed my own bracket for the ignition coil for the time being until i order from honda. but i still hear some missing at idle. think the coil iself is shot since it hasnt been grounded?

 

Do you have an H23 coil bracket? I just swapped mine around and cut off the part that stuck up on it, mounted it on the farthest rearward cam bolt, seems to be just dandy. Can post a pic if you want.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M2B4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also is it normal 4 power to drop off around 6900?</TD></TR></TABLE>

For just basic I/H/E it looks normal enough.

The bump at 4k is a little weird, though.


At least it wasn't this spiky

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snobordboi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have an H23 coil bracket?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah it has the h23 bracket. not sure if im missing any of it tho. mine just has 2 holes for bolts one on the underside near ecu plug and one on top right side near plug wire. if you could please post up a pic of urs. right now i fabbed a intake pipe mounting thingy for a bracket lol.


that link to that graph is bad spiky! lol guess i should be a little fortunate mine wasnt that bad

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At least it wasn't </TD></TR></TABLE>

damn son. that your car? wtf?

 

your manifold is on its way.

it does look like your iab's aren't working on that graph. do you have good plugs/cap/rotor installed? good engine ground?

 

sweet thx . ngk plugs and wires only a year old. um ive gone through 3 distributors dunno which cap and rotor was the good one lol but i did replace and nothing changed. maybe ill upgrade my ground wires. give that a shot. hey shawn thx again

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

damn son. that your car? wtf?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hehe, yup.

I never catch a break on the dyno, especially now that I'm trying to DIY


I'm not sure about people saying the IABs aren't working. I'd think that 4500rpm would definitely be making more power than 4000 if they were non-functional. On the other hand, I'd expect 4500 to be making at least equal power with them working normally as well.
Either way, pretty easy to verify.

Rosko's work is very bling bling

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I never catch a break on the dyno, especially now that I'm trying to DIY </TD></TR></TABLE>

Whats goin on with it? Bad ground? You're missing big power because of that.

 

PM'd to not threadjack

 

if u found out the cause of ur graph please share lol. im running out of ideas 2 fix my missing

 

I was told it looked like ignition breakup which would be caused by too much/too little timing, or hardware problems with the ignition system.

I fooled around with timing on the dyno so it probably wasn't that. Beyond that I don't have an answer, sorry. I replaced cap/rotor/wires/plugs, but I don't feel anything different*. I'll have to dyno again at some point to see if anything changed.


*The car never felt "wrong" in the first place though

 

looks pretty good for the mods. with a better manifold you probably wouldnt see power drop off so soon.

 

Heres a couple pics of how I used the H23 coil bracket to mount the coil on my H22. Sorry they are sorta big pics, but hopefully it shows how it worked well.

 

i c how you did it i think. thanks now if it would only stop raining (2 days non stop) i can go tinker. heres how i rigged mine 4 now





just need 2 find t-stat ground now