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Welding Together A 2-Piece Header??? Part 2?

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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 08:21 PM
  #1  
1994PreludeSi's Avatar
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Default Welding Together A 2-Piece Header??? Part 2?

Ok, so I have decided to weld together my two piece header (damn gasket in between the two pieces keeps blowing!) and I know that the header won't come down as one piece unless I remove the front crossmember. My question was, which method is easier to remove the crossmember? Take the bolts off of the front engine mount and drop the mount with the crossmember, or the bolts that hold the crossmember to the mount? Are the engine mount bolts really tight and a pain in the *** to get off and put back on? I know that I am going to have to hold the engine "up" if I do remove the front mount (raising the engine by the oil pan with a 2x4 and a jack, right?) I just need to know which way is easier. Don't really know if this all makes sense to anyone... Any help?
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 06:24 AM
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This is a bad idea man, just get a new gasket and torque the thing down to the right specs, you have a flex pipe right?

What kind of header is it?
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 07:07 AM
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Default Re: (mgags7)

X2 on that idea bad idea
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 09:43 AM
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Default Re: (cb7tougeracer)

what kind of gasket have you been using? dunno if anyone else recommends this but what i was gunna do to mine was replace the metal gasket and using the copper gasket maker and do a bead along the edges as added protection so it wont leak again.
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 09:59 AM
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Default Re: (M2B4)

That should be fine. also you can bead around the bolt studs too.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M2B4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of gasket have you been using? dunno if anyone else recommends this but what i was gunna do to mine was replace the metal gasket and using the copper gasket maker and do a bead along the edges as added protection so it wont leak again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 11:47 AM
  #6  
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How many times has it blown out? Are you torquing it down good and correctly?

If it keeps blowing out as bad as you imply, it may be the mating surfaces have warped. Try taking the header to a machine shop and spending ~$20 to have it milled completely flat.
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 05:37 PM
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1994PreludeSi's Avatar
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Default Re: (LudeyKrus)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a bad idea man, just get a new gasket and torque the thing down to the right specs, you have a flex pipe right?

What kind of header is it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why do you say it is a bad idea?
Its does have a flex pipe and it is an ebay header...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M2B4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of gasket have you been using? dunno if anyone else recommends this but what i was gunna do to mine was replace the metal gasket and using the copper gasket maker and do a bead along the edges as added protection so it wont leak again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can post a picture of the type of gasket I am using later. If you look up an ebay header real quick, it should be the same material for most of them. I actually went to an exhaust/speed shop and showed them the material and they said it was of very good quality. The exhaust gaskets they sold were of the same material. I also used the copper gasket maker around the rings of the header because they said it would help seal it and keep it from blowing.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How many times has it blown out? Are you torquing it down good and correctly?

If it keeps blowing out as bad as you imply, it may be the mating surfaces have warped. Try taking the header to a machine shop and spending ~$20 to have it milled completely flat.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It has blown out 3 times including this one. I did tightened the nuts down until they wouldn't budge. I need to buy a torque wrench... The mating surfaces were flat.
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 06:49 PM
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Default Re: (1994PreludeSi)

i had this same problem with my 2 piece dc header and what i did, i went to auto zone and bought a sealer and applied the sealer around the bolts and wrench them back in place also made sure it was snug and set and ever since then no leaks..
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 05:10 AM
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Default Re: (1994PreludeSi)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1994PreludeSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you say it is a bad idea?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because having to pull your front end apart to get your header on and off is a PITA. I recommend trying all other options first.
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 07:24 AM
  #10  
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i've had to replace the gasket on my ESP header three times now and its leaking again. i think its surfaces may be warped. i use a torque wrench when i secure the bolts too. **** is real annoying. only benefit is that i can remove the header in under 5 minutes now.
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 07:26 AM
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Default Re: (prelude_h22vtec)

air ratchet....1/2 inch in a slow rotating order
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 02:29 PM
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Default Re: (alterdcreations)

I was trying to find a gasket for my DC header I got used w/o any gaskets. On the DC site they say to use the OEM gasket. It dosen't looks like that was done on the previous install. Should I use the OEM doughnut gaskets I bought or should I use something else?
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 02:31 PM
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Default Re: (M@)

im in the same problem with you! im not sure what dam gaskets to use!
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 03:57 PM
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Im gonna go out on a limb and say that the problem is the cheap header here is why.
The 2 mating surfaces of the header are probably not machined right or are warped most likely both.
This can be caused by some other reason's, such as the metal getting to hot, or the bolts were torqued down to tight, causing the metal to warp.
Put a straight edge to both surfaces, do you see any dips in the edge? If so there is your problem.
You may be able to get a machine shop to mill it flat for you.

PS don't weld it together, not only will it leak again, it will be more of a PITA to fix it later.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 04:28 PM
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Default Re: (JonGP4)

Other than it being a pain in the *** to pull the header off every time I need to (I am not planning on doing any headwork or removing the header any time soon) what are the other cons if any?

Cool new smilies by the way...
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 06:14 PM
  #16  
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Default Re: (1994PreludeSi)

I agree about the non-flat faces. Also, no one's suggested that the problem could be downstream, something restrictive in the muffler? Unlikely, but another variable.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 06:30 PM
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Default Re: (kb58)

I found this:
http://www.f22parts.com/item_Headergasket.htm

Would that be better for my DC header then the OEM or should I just start a new thread?
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 06:38 PM
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Why don't you just call DC and get one?
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 06:42 PM
  #19  
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Default Re: (mgags7)

Well I couldn't find their number and on their site it says...(edit: DC Sports (310) 484-2322
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC SPorts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Two-piece headers come with factory style o-rings and hardware to connect the two sections of the header. The factory head and donut gasket (if applicable) are durable enough to be reused with our product. If for some reason your stock components are damaged, you can pick up replacement parts at a dealership. We have elected to use factory parts because of their inherent quality and abundant supply, and so you do not need to contact us (or one of our distributors) for a proprietary part.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The more I think about it I would rather lap the two parts, and then use copper coat then use the o-ring gaskets. I think the O-rings will cause distortion of the flanges, leading to leaks, and or weld breaks.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 06:45 PM
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Default Re: (M@)

also the DC has residue on it that looks like it had a gasket like this:
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 06:50 PM
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I'd make sure there is no buildup or anything on there so you have a flat mating surface, and get one of the pictured gaskets.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 07:11 PM
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Default Re: (mgags7)

^^^ THAT'S THE TYPE OF GASKET MY HEADER CAME WITH!
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 10:15 PM
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Default Re: (1994PreludeSi)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1994PreludeSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^ THAT'S THE TYPE OF GASKET MY HEADER CAME WITH! </TD></TR></TABLE>
WOW!!

Seriously, thats a bad idea, use 2 gaskets before you do something like that, or buy a new header.
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 04:19 PM
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Default Re: (anonymousone)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anonymousone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
WOW!!

Seriously, thats a bad idea, use 2 gaskets before you do something like that, or buy a new header. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't understand what you are saying. You recommend to use two gaskets of some other material instead of using a typical gasket material?
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 04:24 PM
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Two gaskets is never a good idea.
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