Turbo d16z6 not makin power "I think its the dizzy"
Guys,
I have a d16z6 that is now turbo'd. I bought the car bone stock from my uncle last december. He told me when he bought it from this old lady that it had no problems whatsoever except he had to replace the dizzy. A couple of times in the morning I noticed that I couldnt start my car after a hard rain. I dont know if it was getting moisture inside or what. Well I would literally take a blow dryer and air it out to get it started. I think the dampness fucked it up. I notice that it didnt pull hard when it was N/A. Like there was some hesitation or bogging down low rpm. Around 3-4 rpm thats when i would get a little stronger. My friend told me that it is normal cause its a sohc but it shouldnt be like that. I also noticed that my tach has been acting up and not always reading accurate. Im thinking that when I took the car to the dyno that Is why I was only making like 150-160 ish power now cause of this distrubutor. When I adjust it I get a serious shock from it bad. Is there something wrong here. I have brand new wires and replaced the o ring in the dizzy about 2 months ago. Im thinkin either the dizzy is fucked or something inside needs replacing. Has anyone seen something like this?
I have a d16z6 that is now turbo'd. I bought the car bone stock from my uncle last december. He told me when he bought it from this old lady that it had no problems whatsoever except he had to replace the dizzy. A couple of times in the morning I noticed that I couldnt start my car after a hard rain. I dont know if it was getting moisture inside or what. Well I would literally take a blow dryer and air it out to get it started. I think the dampness fucked it up. I notice that it didnt pull hard when it was N/A. Like there was some hesitation or bogging down low rpm. Around 3-4 rpm thats when i would get a little stronger. My friend told me that it is normal cause its a sohc but it shouldnt be like that. I also noticed that my tach has been acting up and not always reading accurate. Im thinking that when I took the car to the dyno that Is why I was only making like 150-160 ish power now cause of this distrubutor. When I adjust it I get a serious shock from it bad. Is there something wrong here. I have brand new wires and replaced the o ring in the dizzy about 2 months ago. Im thinkin either the dizzy is fucked or something inside needs replacing. Has anyone seen something like this?
try the ignitor when mine was going bad sometimes it would bog and sometimes the tach would jump when i got on it or it wouldnt be very accurate. is it blowing smoke in high rpms like it isnt burning all of the fuel?
my car also wouldnt start if it rain out or it was really cold and if it did start it wanted to die. i replaced the ignitor and all my problems went away so i would try that
my car also wouldnt start if it rain out or it was really cold and if it did start it wanted to die. i replaced the ignitor and all my problems went away so i would try that
you the man!! Everything that u are saying here makes sense and applys to what im talking about. Thanks! So the is the ignitor which causing this to bog and all. And people do tell me that black smoke is coming out of the exhaust some time. The thing i dont understand is that the dizzy was supposdly new when I bought the car. Maybe there was a defect. So is this a easy fix?
yes its an easy fix. what you do is pull the cap off and your rotor. your coil will be on top. down and to the right is where your ignitor is if i remember correctly. it will have 3 or 4 prongs coming off of it pull those off and the heat sink will have 2 screw head bolts holding it down take those out and it will come out and then vice versa.
remember where your wires go onto the ignitor so you dont get them plugged in wrong. and that should fix your problem.
the ignitor is kind of pricey i think around a hundred dollars but you gotta pay to play so.
i hope this helps
remember where your wires go onto the ignitor so you dont get them plugged in wrong. and that should fix your problem.
the ignitor is kind of pricey i think around a hundred dollars but you gotta pay to play so.
i hope this helps
you can but i just went ahead and changed the ignitor. welp i just did some looking and i found them from the price range of 80 bucks to 140. so its completely up to u.
the dizzy is gonna cost a little more but you will have all new stuff but then again there is that chance of a defect. and if you replcae just the ignitor you will be set but then you could of almost bought a new dizzy.
its up to you on what you wanna do. i changed the ignitor just because there wasnt a dizzy in town for my b16a.
the dizzy is gonna cost a little more but you will have all new stuff but then again there is that chance of a defect. and if you replcae just the ignitor you will be set but then you could of almost bought a new dizzy.
its up to you on what you wanna do. i changed the ignitor just because there wasnt a dizzy in town for my b16a.
well could u shoot me some links for the ignitors. I just took the car for a drive during my lunch break at work and i see that my car is bogging real low. The tach is not even showing the reading correctly. You u say that this is still the ignitor. See im thinking that it is cause my timing is correct. The car idles fine sometimes. But then there is other times where its running like ****. Im thinking also that its not making power and stuttering cause the spark that it should be providing is very low. But then when it clears up high thats when the spark gets bigger right.
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yes that sounds right. im still thinking it is the ignitor. when it boggs or stutters does the tach jump up or down any? thats what led me to believe it was my ignitor cause it is what the tach hooks to.
try autozone.com
mine wasnt really all that distinct where it would do this to me it could be low it could be high and sometimes it was idle im sure they can act differently. another thing you could do is test your ign. coil. thats easy to do and will rule it out. its definitely in your ignition . that all u have to do is pop your cap and rotor off and hook a ohm meter up to negative to the tower that comes out of the coil and positive to one of the terminals that come out where the wires screw into it (sorry lack of words to use there). im telling you straight up its gonna be the ignitor if your tach is inaccurate or jumping 99% of the times its gonna be the ignitor especially if it jumps when your car is bogging or cutting out.
try autozone.com
mine wasnt really all that distinct where it would do this to me it could be low it could be high and sometimes it was idle im sure they can act differently. another thing you could do is test your ign. coil. thats easy to do and will rule it out. its definitely in your ignition . that all u have to do is pop your cap and rotor off and hook a ohm meter up to negative to the tower that comes out of the coil and positive to one of the terminals that come out where the wires screw into it (sorry lack of words to use there). im telling you straight up its gonna be the ignitor if your tach is inaccurate or jumping 99% of the times its gonna be the ignitor especially if it jumps when your car is bogging or cutting out.
o definately if the ignitor is not doing its job accuratley "igniting" that should tell you right then and there thats gonna kill power. your not getting near the spark that a regular car is gonna get so your just running rich as a pig. which equals horrible loss of power. when i replaced my ignitor it felt like a different car.
so i bought a new ignitor and im going to put it in after work. Do you guys really think this icm thing makes a real difference for power? I thought the ignitor only deals with the tach readings. The car most the time runs perfect nice idle. Then theres other times where ill be sitting at a light and the tach is reading completly zero and feels like it is stuttering and wants to shut off. I have to stay on the gas to keep it running. This happens everyonce and a while. Also when starting it up it feels like there is a hestitation or something.
haha yea make sure to use anti-seize on that had the same problem once. was a real pain in the *** to get out
well i changed the dizzy out and it seems that the car actually moves now. It breaks the tires loose so that tells u something
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Essenar83
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Jul 4, 2006 07:00 PM







