Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

Studding the head.

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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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Hardedge's Avatar
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Default Studding the head.

I know people on here have to have the answer to this question. I'm wanting to replace my head bolts with studs and was curious as to the process. Are they just threaded in and then the nuts are torqued just like the bolts, or do the studs have to be threaded in and torqued a certain way followed by torqing the nuts as well?
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 07:31 PM
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Default Re: Studding the head. (Hardedge)

With ARP's you just use an allen key and tighten them hand tight from what I have seen/been told
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 07:44 PM
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Default Re: Studding the head. (95ProjectEJ1)

Do they come with instructions or does ARP assume that I know what I'm doing?
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 07:47 PM
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Default Re: Studding the head. (Hardedge)

Im willing to put money on ARP giving instructions. When I was watching my buddy install some it seem very easy and very straightforward
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 07:58 PM
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Default Re: Studding the head. (95ProjectEJ1)

Cool, thanks.
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 08:01 PM
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Default

Props for not reusing OEM bolts.
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 08:02 PM
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Default Re: Studding the head. (95ProjectEJ1)

Hey, the ARP studs are screwed into the block finger tight w/ a little bit of ARP assembly lube on both ends. You'll drop your head gasket on next followed by the head. Next coat the flange of the nut and the big knarly washers with more assembly lube. Now is when you consult the instructions for your torque spec., and follow the factory tightening sequence. Hint go ahead and add 10% if your gonna spray or use alot of boost but keep in mind that when you go over on the torque spec. you can't re-use the studs as many times, because your stretching the stud beyond its "recommended" yield. Those studs work great with a open deck block. And while your at it call Race Engineering in Florida and get the block guard its a easy install and cured alot of my cylinder shaking problems. BTW be careful if you add 10%, you can pull the threads right out of the block. Don't keep crankin' on the nut if it seems like it's not tightening. You might want to add only 5% for starters, but the basic idea is to nail that SOB down good!!!


Modified by Transpoquick at 9:28 PM 10/18/2007
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 05:58 AM
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Default Re: Studding the head. (Transpoquick)

Thanks for all of the information. The motor is stock so factory torque specs should be fine. It's just that for some reason the head gasket blew and I want more assurance with the sealing and also the ease of gasket installation. If I have the money, I was thinking of getting a Mugen or Cometic gasket just for overkill sake, make sure that puppy never blows again.
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 10:21 AM
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Default Re: Studding the head. (Hardedge)

Arp recommend their own torques spec because the whol setup is different than a head stud setup... follow the ARP directions and youll be good... ive had mine on for 36K and no problems... still holding tight!
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 11:43 AM
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Default Re: Studding the head. (greenblurr93)

when i install arp headstuds i usually put all the bolts and washers on the stud, lube it all up and then put it in. leave the nut at the very top but threaded on the stud. put all the studs in and use a allen key to hand tighten them down. then go ahead and torque them down. i found it easier this way cause i dont like putting oin each washer and nut one at a time
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