I am looking to get my exhaust installed this coming week. I have a few questions as I don't want the system welded as one piece.

The set-up:

DTR header > kteller 3" piping kit > Vibrant 18" resonator > Vibrant 3" stealth muffler

1) What is the best way to make the connection at the header? Have flange welded on exhaust then bolt to flange on header is what I am thinking. 2) Will I need a gasket between the two flanges? 3) If so, do muffler shops typically carry 3" exhaust gaskets

4) I would like a disconnect option (flanges w/ bolts) at the muffler (3" Vibrant). Is a gasket needed at this flange connection?

I am also thinking about boosting the K20a2 in 2008. 5)Should I have the resonator flanged as well?!?! 6)Would a resonator on a turbo setup restrict the air flow much?

Some pics of the system:









Thanks for any help

 

do as you feel. for me i always went to the muffler shop. a quick 60 dollars can make miracles

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bignewtCA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do as you feel. for me i always went to the muffler shop. a quick 60 dollars can make miracles</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is a technical forum hence the questions I was asking. I know I can run down to the local muffler shop and pay them to install the exhaust

....and $60 isn't going to get my complete system welded

Here is the hardware that came with the 3" kteller piping kit:

What are these clamps for?:





I'm thinking about removing the header (section connects to the exhaust) and taking the kteller piping / hardware to a local muffler shop and see what they have in mind for the connection.

Someone also recommended a test pipe adapter to make the connection between the header and exhaust --&gt; HERE!

A little pricey and money is not something I have a lot of these days

What do you guys think?


Modified by Fuster_Cluck at 1:05 PM 10/22/2007

 

I took the header (piece that connects to exhaust) off and it's 2.5" diameter as seen here:



Entire piece:



Thin gasket not quite large enough to mate with the DTR header:



kteller flange also not quite large enough:



Closer look at the misaligned holes:



Definitely not the same size neither:



The 1/2" lip on the header flange should secure the connection with the 3" piping. Hopefully the thin gasket or one similar (maybe the muffler shop has a better fitting one) can be used to seal the system. As you can see here the flange on the DTR header is well over 3" which hopefully should take the 3" exhaust piping with no problem:



I'm heading up to the muffler shop with the pieces. It's a rainy day here in ATL so the midori EG will remain in the garage (she hasn't seen rain since the rebuild and no plans to change that ) I'll be back with the verdict and hopefully the weather will clear up tomorrow even though the forecast is showing rain again

 

the header will require a donut gasket.

the thin gasket goes in between the 2 flanges you have. they should be weld on the catback in which it came with.

the 2 u style clamp is for the catback as well. they should be used in the slip fit part of the catback.

the hangers you have should be welded to the catback in place of the stock hanger locations. this requesires the use of a lift(or some sort), so you can clearly see whats where, from under the car once the header, piping, muffler are all in place and mocked up.

hope that helps.

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there are also other ways to go about getting your parts installed, so be creative and do as you wish.

 

Am I to assume your not welding this but taking it to a shop? If so, just take it to a reputable shop, tell them how you want it done, flanges/gaskets/ect. and let them do their thing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2turbo_terror &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Am I to assume your not welding this but taking it to a shop? If so, just take it to a reputable shop, tell them how you want it done, flanges/gaskets/ect. and let them do their thing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Most shop around here are your "mom & pops" and even the big names wouldn't carry most of the things that he needs. What site can he purchase these parts from? He is fully aware that he can take it to any local shop and get them to throw it on, leaks and all. He wants a quality install

 

Since there’s not a competent person capable of welding that changes things. I spend a lot of time fixing those kind of mistakes for people; welded exhaust flanges, entire exhaust systems welded to the frame of the car, one piece exhaust system from the manifold to the muffler

Heres my opinion:

1) What is the best way to make the connection at the header? Have flange welded on exhaust then bolt to flange on header is what I am thinking.

-Agreed

2) Will I need a gasket between the two flanges? 3) If so, do muffler shops typically carry 3" exhaust gaskets the header pipe protrudes 0.5" so it'll help if you can get one, if not,

-If you can get one, use it. That way once the exhaust is done, its done. A gasket from a truck could fit w/little to no modifications.

4) I would like a disconnect option (flanges w/ bolts) at the muffler (3" Vibrant). Is a gasket needed at this flange connection?

-yes.

I am also thinking about boosting the K20a2 in 2008. 5)Should I have the resonator flanged as well?!?! 6)Would a resonator on a turbo setup restrict the air flow much?


That’ll be debatable/personal preference. Is the core perforated or louvered? If its perforated I’d leave it, arguing that it’ll rob HP will depend on the HP level of the car and it’ll also be a compromise of a few hp or a quieter exhaust.


For 2.5" gaskets I use replacement ones for trucks, can't be more specific than that, I pull them myself and just measure. Those flanges w/the slightly misaligned bolt holes can be massaged w/a file/dye grinder/drill.

I hope this is some help to ya.

 

You must use a donut and some flared tubing mounted with spring bolts like stock or the header will crack over time.

What I do for these set ups is use a 2.5 x 3.0 transition, slip a floating flange over the 2.5 end, then flare it, then butt weld it to the 3 tubing.