What Fuel and What Oil is Prefered by Type-r Owners.
Very curious as to what fuel and oils are best/prefered you guys.
i tried a search for best gas, but all that comes up is what octane people use and **** about fuel mileage. i know i have seen a thread on oils, but i cant find it.
what i wanna know is what company you go with
i go for Chevron(texaco) w/ Techron (94 octane) for the ITR w/ Mobil 1 5w50 motor oil.
just wondering if this is good for the ITR or if i should switch to something else like shell, esso, etc.
thnx
i tried a search for best gas, but all that comes up is what octane people use and **** about fuel mileage. i know i have seen a thread on oils, but i cant find it.
what i wanna know is what company you go with
i go for Chevron(texaco) w/ Techron (94 octane) for the ITR w/ Mobil 1 5w50 motor oil.
just wondering if this is good for the ITR or if i should switch to something else like shell, esso, etc.
thnx
Honestly, the fuel doesn't make much difference as long as it's the proper octane rating, and the oil should just be a quality 5W-30. The ITR is a special car, but it's still an Integra.
I just use the cheapest major brand gasoline with 91 octane or higher.
Full synthetic motor oil, 5W30 viscosity like Honda recommends. Usually Pennzoil Platinum because every so often Pep Boys has it on sale with a rebate offer that makes it $2/qt.
Full synthetic motor oil, 5W30 viscosity like Honda recommends. Usually Pennzoil Platinum because every so often Pep Boys has it on sale with a rebate offer that makes it $2/qt.
Quicktrip 91 because QT insures their gas. i also use royal purple 5w30 u can purchase it cheap online about $6/qt but if u go to advance/reillys they charge almost $8/qt
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tegra_devil »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i guess im going overkill?!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Some (including myself) think it's overkill, but as you've seen, there are plenty of people who feel compelled to spend $6+ per quart on oil and change it every 3,000 miles. In the end, you should do whatever makes you happiest, but your ITR will be perfectly fine running whatever premium unleaded fuel you put in it, and whichever 5W-30 happens to be on sale at your local auto parts store.
One thing I would definitely suggest is switching from the 5W-50 you're currently running, as that is not the proper viscosity for the engine.
Some (including myself) think it's overkill, but as you've seen, there are plenty of people who feel compelled to spend $6+ per quart on oil and change it every 3,000 miles. In the end, you should do whatever makes you happiest, but your ITR will be perfectly fine running whatever premium unleaded fuel you put in it, and whichever 5W-30 happens to be on sale at your local auto parts store.
One thing I would definitely suggest is switching from the 5W-50 you're currently running, as that is not the proper viscosity for the engine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuckMyDOHC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">91 octane chevron, shell, or 76. No cheap *** arco or any of that crap in my R</TD></TR></TABLE>
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i only ever use Shell V-power 99RON, thats what it was tuned on and it runs slow and expletive on anything else
Oil, up until now i've been using Silkolene Pro-S 5w40, but thinking of switching to Motul.
filter, Hamp
Oil, up until now i've been using Silkolene Pro-S 5w40, but thinking of switching to Motul.
filter, Hamp
You're from North Vancouver.
Head down to Mohawk and fill up on the regular. It's already rated at 90 at the pump and just use it for daily driving.
When you're ready to hit some track events, go for their 94. The bonus is that their regular is usually cheaper (albeit just a bit) than other stations which is still using 87 or 89.
FWIW, my timing is also dialed down to 16deg (which is still within factory spec) and I use a 2pce headgasket and my head has been resurfaced after a bent valve incident. No pinging issues here.
Oil? I use tech 2000 (as in walmart) cheap shiet or whatever is on sale on the streets. For track, I've had pretty decent luck with German Castrol synthetic (but I hear the formulation has changed) no luck with Mobil 1 (burns like crazy) and I liked Redline (but that was years ago 10W40), Amsoil and will give Motul a whirl the next time around.
Head down to Mohawk and fill up on the regular. It's already rated at 90 at the pump and just use it for daily driving.
When you're ready to hit some track events, go for their 94. The bonus is that their regular is usually cheaper (albeit just a bit) than other stations which is still using 87 or 89.
FWIW, my timing is also dialed down to 16deg (which is still within factory spec) and I use a 2pce headgasket and my head has been resurfaced after a bent valve incident. No pinging issues here.
Oil? I use tech 2000 (as in walmart) cheap shiet or whatever is on sale on the streets. For track, I've had pretty decent luck with German Castrol synthetic (but I hear the formulation has changed) no luck with Mobil 1 (burns like crazy) and I liked Redline (but that was years ago 10W40), Amsoil and will give Motul a whirl the next time around.
Amsoil 0-20 in the track car. After 2 days of lapping, it was still clean as a whistle!!!
On the street car I run crap right now due to an oil consumption problem, however once I'm over that... I'll be running Amsoil Full Syn 5W-30.
Fuel... shell or cheveron.
On the street car I run crap right now due to an oil consumption problem, however once I'm over that... I'll be running Amsoil Full Syn 5W-30.
Fuel... shell or cheveron.
GSR: whatever fuel is around when the needle covers the tip of the E, oil Amsoil XL 5W-30, but about 112k miles of Castrol GTX (street and track). Motor finally started to burn castrol at around 90k under hard use. Burned about .75-1qt of Castrol GTX every 2,000 miles or so, burns .5qt of amsoil after 8,000 miles under mixed use. Would probably burn 3qts of Mobil 1 in 1500 miles
OEM filters before they went to ****, now K&N, need to buy a new stock of S2K filters (which are filtech's now btw, not toyo roki's or whatever) and switch back to them.
S2K: fuel, whatever is around when there are no LEDs lit up anymore, oil: about 11k of Castrol GTX, UOA showed about normal + breakin still occuring at 8,5xx miles (3,500 on the oil), now using Amsoil ATM (10W-30). Have about 5K on it, still clean but that doesn't mean much honestly. Going to get a UOA of it whenever I get less lazy and change it.
OEM filters before they went to ****, now K&N, need to buy a new stock of S2K filters (which are filtech's now btw, not toyo roki's or whatever) and switch back to them.S2K: fuel, whatever is around when there are no LEDs lit up anymore, oil: about 11k of Castrol GTX, UOA showed about normal + breakin still occuring at 8,5xx miles (3,500 on the oil), now using Amsoil ATM (10W-30). Have about 5K on it, still clean but that doesn't mean much honestly. Going to get a UOA of it whenever I get less lazy and change it.
Not to jack the thread, but whats up with S2K filters now being made by Filtech and not good ol' Toyo Roki? I guess since all the other OEM filters went to crap then those should too. Maybe I'm wrong.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by will. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to jack the thread, but whats up with S2K filters now being made by Filtech and not good ol' Toyo Roki? I guess since all the other OEM filters went to crap then those should too. Maybe I'm wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Eh, they appear to be about the same as far as construction and such is concerned. The old honda filters (the good ones) were Filtech as well so I wouldn't be too concerned about it. The **** honda filters are the Frams..
Eh, they appear to be about the same as far as construction and such is concerned. The old honda filters (the good ones) were Filtech as well so I wouldn't be too concerned about it. The **** honda filters are the Frams..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by will. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to jack the thread, but whats up with S2K filters now being made by Filtech and not good ol' Toyo Roki? I guess since all the other OEM filters went to crap then those should too. Maybe I'm wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If thats the case,your better off just buying Bosch filters. They are also made by filtec. Not bad filters.
If thats the case,your better off just buying Bosch filters. They are also made by filtec. Not bad filters.


