Cylinder 1 and 2 running leaner than 3 and 4? WTF?!
So a few months ago my bone stock GSR burnt an exhaust valve in cyl #1 due to unknown reasons, fixed that and it's back in the road again.
I recently bought a header for it and I know it's supposed to changed colors due to the heat but I noticed that cyl 1 and 2 are noticibly hotter than the rest, do you think it could be injectors? Fuel rail? I got a new fuel filter and have ran fuel system cleaner through it already.
I don't know why it's heating unevenly...


I don't want to burn another valve now...
I recently bought a header for it and I know it's supposed to changed colors due to the heat but I noticed that cyl 1 and 2 are noticibly hotter than the rest, do you think it could be injectors? Fuel rail? I got a new fuel filter and have ran fuel system cleaner through it already.
I don't know why it's heating unevenly...


I don't want to burn another valve now...
Those "hot spots" could have been caused by surface contamination, i.e. oil from you hands. Unless you get a pyrometer or thermocouple, you can't guess the temperature.
Ok here are the pix of the plugs and old injectors. I just switched them out with some newer ones in much better condition.
They in order 4-3-2-1.



Hmm somethin's going on in cylinder 1...
Thanks again.
They in order 4-3-2-1.



Hmm somethin's going on in cylinder 1...
Thanks again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azn Kenny »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There weren't any oils/fingerprints on them at all, I wore gloves the whole time.
So I know it's not an outside factor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Plug 2 looks just like plugs 3 and 4. So, the conditions should have been similar, which means the header tube temperature for cylinder 2 should have been the same as 3 and 4. Plus the cutoff line in the coloration on the exhaust manifold for 1 and 2 is quite sharp. As I said before, that is not a reliable temperature gauge. The spark plugs were a good find.
Were those injectors the same as when you burned the exhaust valve in cylinder 1?
So I know it's not an outside factor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Plug 2 looks just like plugs 3 and 4. So, the conditions should have been similar, which means the header tube temperature for cylinder 2 should have been the same as 3 and 4. Plus the cutoff line in the coloration on the exhaust manifold for 1 and 2 is quite sharp. As I said before, that is not a reliable temperature gauge. The spark plugs were a good find.
Were those injectors the same as when you burned the exhaust valve in cylinder 1?
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Yep those were the old injectors I had in when the valve burned up in cyl one.
Any ideas on what I can do to prevent another valve from burning? I guess I need to richen up my tune more...
Thanks.
Any ideas on what I can do to prevent another valve from burning? I guess I need to richen up my tune more...
Thanks.
Well damn, new injectors made the problem WORSE.
After I hooked up my laptop to the wideband the afr's were 16:1!! :-O
I tried to drive it down the street but the afr's were dangerous (16-17:1) so I turned back around and shut it off. Replaced them with my old ones again and afr's are back to normal...
I guess you can't judge a book by it's cover; the newer ones were in way better condition but I guess they are really clogged up. :-(
After I hooked up my laptop to the wideband the afr's were 16:1!! :-O
I tried to drive it down the street but the afr's were dangerous (16-17:1) so I turned back around and shut it off. Replaced them with my old ones again and afr's are back to normal...
I guess you can't judge a book by it's cover; the newer ones were in way better condition but I guess they are really clogged up. :-(
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azn Kenny »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well damn, new injectors made the problem WORSE.
After I hooked up my laptop to the wideband the afr's were 16:1!! :-O
I tried to drive it down the street but the afr's were dangerous (16-17:1) so I turned back around and shut it off. Replaced them with my old ones again and afr's are back to normal...
I guess you can't judge a book by it's cover; the newer ones were in way better condition but I guess they are really clogged up. :-(
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What is your fuel pressure?
After I hooked up my laptop to the wideband the afr's were 16:1!! :-O
I tried to drive it down the street but the afr's were dangerous (16-17:1) so I turned back around and shut it off. Replaced them with my old ones again and afr's are back to normal...
I guess you can't judge a book by it's cover; the newer ones were in way better condition but I guess they are really clogged up. :-(
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What is your fuel pressure?
see if the wideband is reading richer now with the new injectors than its pretty easy to say that your old injectors were not working very good and those cylinders probably were running lean. re-tune it and drive around the block a couple times to see what happens.
also it sounds like your car is moded up wayyy more than i thought at first... you should tell us what u have in order to help u better... have you ever used an fmu?
also it sounds like your car is moded up wayyy more than i thought at first... you should tell us what u have in order to help u better... have you ever used an fmu?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azn Kenny »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No the wideband was reading leaner with the NEWER injectors, either they are clogged or they are peak/hold.
It's not that much modded lol, stock GSR with ITR cams/valvertrain and bolt-ons.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Measure the resistance of the injectors. They should read between ~10-15 ohms for saturated injectors.
It's not that much modded lol, stock GSR with ITR cams/valvertrain and bolt-ons.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Measure the resistance of the injectors. They should read between ~10-15 ohms for saturated injectors.
check injector seals
To clean the injectors...
Pb blaster, compressed air, a injector pulse tool, and a set of injector baskets.
remove injector baskets, reverse clean injectors with LIGHT air pressure and pb blaster.
then clean them flowing correct way untill spray pattern atomizes normally then install new baskets.
To clean the injectors...
Pb blaster, compressed air, a injector pulse tool, and a set of injector baskets.
remove injector baskets, reverse clean injectors with LIGHT air pressure and pb blaster.
then clean them flowing correct way untill spray pattern atomizes normally then install new baskets.
oh wow its running leaner with the new injectors.... hmmm i wonder if maybe some of the spray was shooting fuel into the intake manifold so in higher rpms it would probably build up even though air will be constnatly coming in it would still be richer than normal.....
just an idea but u can confirm it if u have a fiber optic scope...
if the injectors were unsaturaded and u have no resistor box in place the car would probably be running super rough compared to before. or not at all...
now im wondering what injectors your using.... cause it doesnt sound like you replaced the broken ones with the same ones u still have...
like i said before... everyone is gona give general stabs at your problem but unless you tell us your setup u wont get a good shank on the problem.
just an idea but u can confirm it if u have a fiber optic scope...
if the injectors were unsaturaded and u have no resistor box in place the car would probably be running super rough compared to before. or not at all...
now im wondering what injectors your using.... cause it doesnt sound like you replaced the broken ones with the same ones u still have...
like i said before... everyone is gona give general stabs at your problem but unless you tell us your setup u wont get a good shank on the problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Measure the resistance of the injectors. They should read between ~10-15 ohms for saturated injectors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The newer ones read 11.9 but they didn't run right for some reason...
EDIT, old ones read the same resistance as well.
Guess that means the newer ones are just clogged.
Measure the resistance of the injectors. They should read between ~10-15 ohms for saturated injectors.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The newer ones read 11.9 but they didn't run right for some reason...
EDIT, old ones read the same resistance as well.
Guess that means the newer ones are just clogged.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azn Kenny »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Guess that means the newer ones are just clogged.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is a possibility. Have you measured they dynamic (car running under load) fuel pressure? Does the car ever back fire through the IM?
That is a possibility. Have you measured they dynamic (car running under load) fuel pressure? Does the car ever back fire through the IM?



j/k