Sup,
To sum things up, I need to pull out my clutch pedal assembly and do some fixing or replace it i suppose. About 4 or 5 years ago i had a really bad clutch cable that was almost impossible to push in with 1 leg and eventually was replaced. I am guessing in this time frame I some how screwed up the assembly. My neutral safety switch was being gay and wouldnt let me start my car. I replaced the little plastic contact bc it dryed out and broke, but after replaceing it i still cant get contact to the switch. I get into that beloved position under the steering wheel on my back(ouch) and look up there to see that the assembly is not only bent but broke, like the metal is split and causing my pedal to travel outward when i push in the clutch. In summary i need to remove this assembly and either replace it or get some weilding done to it. I

have never removed nor do i ever want to remove it again but i guess i need to this time. Any suggestions, From what i can tell and what i am fearing is that all 3 pedals have to come out?

 

look up an auto to manual swap and you might get more detailed pics of the pedal assembly install/removal.

 

Hi again,
Well i searched for a while for auto to manual conversions and found a few but no really good walk thru with pics and what not. I started working on it yesterday thinking maybe i could just bend the little shaft back and get it work ok that way but not going to happen. So today i started the painful but neccessary removal of the bracket. It seems to be one peice and the bolts are a pain in the arss to get to but i seemed to have gotten to everyone of them. Decided I am going to go ahead and replace the power break booster while i have it all disconnected anyway since I think it was causing me a vacuum leak and it probably has over 500k miles on it anyways.

I pretty sure i got all the bolts off bc it is moving now but i cant seem to get it to break way from the fire wall. I have the clutch pedal removed but the break pedal doesnt seem to come off unless u take that assembly out. I guess it comes out in one peice with the break pedal. (shrug) Rebuilding the motor, replacing just about every other part on this car, this so far seems to be the biggest pain the arss out of it all. But I guess it does explain why i couldnt get my new clutch adjusted right and of course why i couldnt get my neutral safety switch to engage.

NE ways...Is this bracket wedged up in there really tight?? This why its not come down? Maybe the bolts from the power break booster are keeping it from sliding down !! Didnt think about that til just now? Well thx again for any help or suggestions. Now from what i can tell is there are like 2 studs comming out of the fire wall that is preventing this bracket from just sliding down, i cant seem to move it foward at all though i can get it tilted down over 1 stud but the top stud seems impossible. The only thing i can see that is keeping it from moving foward are the air ducts but they are plastic, hard plastic but still cant understand how they could prevent it that much when i have a pry bar trying to move the bracket over the studs. Any suggestions? I have enclosed a pic of what i see and what ultimately is my problem and what i am trying to fix.
John


Wts honda > <



Modified by sicrx69 at 2:25 PM 10/17/2007


Modified by sicrx69 at 5:43 PM 10/17/2007

 

Here is a pic someone took of a new assembly before they
replaced it:

The red dots represent where the nuts are located..

I believe they recommended taking out the driver's side seat
and to drop the steering column to gain access..

 

i always pull the dash It takes a little more time but it's worth it to not have a back ache for a week.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by markviiisvt4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i always pull the dash It takes a little more time but it's worth it to not have a back ache for a week.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed I've swapped out my brake booster with the dash in and with the dash out and its definately worth it to acctually be able to get to the bolts and not kill your back just trying to see them.

 

Use a deep 10 mm socket and a universal swivel with extensions to reach the nuts more easily.

You can jump out the interlock switch by removing the plug and putting a short length of wire between the contacts and taping it up. Attach to the wiring harness somewhere under the dsh. I have doen this on a 1990 hatch and 88 CRX. The hard part is getting the plug off. It is not necessary to remove the assembly to do that. If you don't care, you can always take the easy way out and just cut the wires and splice them together.

 

Where did you get the part? I got the exact same problem at the exact same spot. I just got done bending it back to the hole as much as possible, Im going for the rewelding route. But knowing where to find the part would be great as a backup

 

Well, First off the junk yard is the best place to get one, if u feel like doing to removals &gt; &lt; or u can cough up 140 bucks at the dealer ship for just the bracket.

 

I missed that top bolt i guess, i will look at it tommorow. I didnt remove any bold above the stearing shaft so pretty sure that is what is holding me up. Thx alot for the PiC of the bolt spots, that helped a ton. Also, how hard it the dash to take out? Just thinking about it makes me cringe but just curious, gotta remove instrument cluster and all that crap? Well thx again for everyones help
John

 

I did it with the dash in and it was hell. So much of a pain in the *** I paid a mechanic $400 to put them back in for me. He busted his back, dropped the steering column and did it.

It's a serious pain in the ***.

 

Takes about 45 minutes to take out, another 45 to put back in. Remove the driver's seat, lay on your back and look up, and everything becomes self explanatory. I did this and I'm 6'1" so it's not that bad.

 

just remember where the screws go when you put it back in, I remember when i first took off my dash and I just put random screws in random holes because i didnt know which goes to which and it was ghetto looking.

 

The hardest part is finding that top bolt hidden by the underdash vent-tube

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hanmin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just remember where the screws go when you put it back in, I remember when i first took off my dash and I just put random screws in random holes because i didnt know which goes to which and it was ghetto looking.</TD></TR></TABLE>You don't have to take off the dash, it makes for more work IMO then necessary.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JustAnotherRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did it with the dash in and it was hell. So much of a pain in the *** I paid a mechanic $400 to put them back in for me. It's a serious pain in the ***.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You paid way to much! I got to go with dr_latino all the way. No need to take out the dash. I actually took out the whole fuse box, you might not have to but it made it easier for me. Took about 1 1/2 hours just like the dr said.

Heck if anybody needs to have it replaced around San Fernando area, I'll do it for $300 parts and labor.

 

Does the 88-91 civic sedans and wagons pedal assembly fit directly with the 88-91 civic hatch? And does the 88-91 crx pedal assembly work?


Modified by Hanmin at 8:47 AM 10/20/2007

 

Well,
what a pain in the arss this is, been working on the same bolt for 2 days now. Lying on my back twisted like a pretzel trying to get to this bolt is crazy. I have tried 10 diff ways including sockets swivils, made up tools, and all kinds of rigged up tools but nothing works cept for 1 tiny little 10mm wrench. I cant see it but i can feel it and can manage to get the open end on the bolt and get maybe 2mm turn each time. Takes me 5 mins to get the wrench on the bolt each time and only moves a tiny bit, i can turn the washer now so i know its moved and can wiggle it a tiny bit so its almost out but not there yet. Needless to say this bolt will not being back in. Once its out i am gonna throw it down the street. It kinda baffles me how all other nutz/bolts on this bracket were 12mm and this one is 10mm. (shrug).

Going to try again tommorow after class and hopefully get at least the bolt out and then work on getting the bracket out.

Is the dash that hard to take out ? Do i have take out the instrument cluster and all that crap too? I have taken the instrument cluster out before and noticed screws under there, are those to the dash? I did a brief search on removing the dash but didnt come up with nothing.
John



Modified by sicrx69 at 7:54 PM 10/21/2007

 

I cant seem to get this thing out, I am 99 percent sure i have removed all the bolts but still will not come out. I know some of the studs are holding it in but is this the only thing holding it? I can wiggle it side to side a little bit and i can move it to the left and get it out of the first little stun but will not budge after that. What is holding it? I dont have the brake pedal off either, that seems only to be connected to the actually assembly and the bolt that holds the brake pedal on will not come out till assembly is out bc its blocked by some supoort thing under the dash. How does this come out, does it slide down? do i have to remove the brake pedal? Cant see removing the dash will help, seeing as i got all the bolts out already. Any suggestions?
John

 

I have a 90 honda crx and pretty sure mine looks different, or at least what i can see lying on my back, the brake part and the bolt above that part is different. Hard to describe...

 

I'm buying a crx clutch/brake assembly tomorrow hopefully. It was supposed to be today but the dude had to work extra. I'll see if it works, hopefully it will because I can not find any ef hatches with a manual transmission around here!!!

 

Well... 2 weeks of working on this thing off and on and I finally got it out, wow what a pain. Turns out for 2 days i tried getting a bolt out that wasnt even holding it in : / went to some small peice that was securing the brake lines it seems. The bolt that was holding me up was above the bracket, hiding behind an air duct, ended up taking half the dash out so i could see the bolt then took 45 mins to find a way to get to the bolt. Once i got that bolt out i wasnt out of the woods though, this thing is so wedged up in there that it took some ripping and prying to get it out, breaking the damn brake light sensor in the process.

I think i am gonna cut it up and put it back in there in peices, i think this will help alot and shouldnt hurt it as long as i get it lined up like it suppose to be. One of the hardest part of getting it out was the part that holds the gas pedal is shaped like an L and was hitting the stearing assembly. I think i will cut that off and just bolt it back on so i can put it back after i get other peice in, sounds good? I hope so.

 

on your other bracket, didn't it come with the clutch and brake? Might've been easier if you took the brake and clutch assembly out with the bracket as 1 whole piece.

 

What u mean Ham? The bracket I have pictured holds the all three pedals, there is no other bracket. I removed the clutch and gas pedal first and couldn't remove the brake pedal until i got the bracket loose and pulled half way down. There is a brace that is apart of the car,(cant remove) that has a support bracket bolted to it for the steering column and is in the way of the 3 inch bolt that goes thru the brake pedal arm. Even with all three pedals off the damn steering shaft is in the way bad, i removed the dust cover that is around the shaft and looked at the knuckle part and didn't see an oblivious way of removing it so had to work around it.

The picture i have posted, if u look at the right side of it there is an upside down L shape that houses the gas pedal, it has 1 bolt that bolts to the fire wall and is welded to the side of the mount. I am gonna cut that off and just bolt it back instead of being welded, that should help me putting it back in and give me the same amount of support. The gas pedal shouldn't need that much support anyway, well at least not as much as the brake or clutch pedal. Ne ways, i still need to either a find a replacement or fix mine and get it welded.
Thx for help
John

 

Well, upon futher inspection of mine, i think i need to replace it, its pretty bad. IF anyone has one or knows anyone with one for sale please email me or call me at sicrx69@aol.com or 504-458-0593. Live in texas, for shipping reasons.
John