there are only three pages in the suspension thread so it didnt take me that long to search. nothing came up !!!

I know alot of people have been in the "Post Your Slammed Cars Here" thread so i just wanted to get some feedback of what reinforcement parts people have installed and what changes havew they made.

Yea u can do the OG coilovers turned all the way down till it cant go no mo but what else???

<FONT SIZE="8">PRIME EXAMPLE PROPS TO THE OWNER</FONT>



Modified by Mr JDM South at 11:18 AM 10/16/2007

 

Get extended top hats, maybe a revalve and stiff springs.

 

What I swear by:

Ground Control or Omnipower Coilovers
on
KYB AGX's or Tokico Illuminas.

Either or is the best setup for the best price. Of course you could spend money for GC/Koni setup, but I have heard of plenty of people who are not happy with that setup. I rode both and personally I will never ride anything else. I put a full coil over on my girlfriends integra, and both of my cars rode better than her full coil over did, for half the money.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pearl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What I swear by:

Ground Control or Omnipower Coilovers
on
KYB AGX's or Tokico Illuminas.

Either or is the best setup for the best price. Of course you could spend money for GC/Koni setup, but I have heard of plenty of people who are not happy with that setup. I rode both and personally I will never ride anything else. I put a full coil over on my girlfriends integra, and both of my cars rode better than her full coil over did, for half the money.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im riding Ground Control/Koni but i dont know how many miles are on the suspension so im kinda iffy on keeping it. it rides fine but i know i def wanna tuck it a lil more.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deano_D aka "Brick Top" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get extended top hats, maybe a revalve and stiff springs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

someone mentioned that id see a hell of a difference if i got top hats but i havent looked into em much

 

I use illuminas on setting 5 with custom ground control rates and top hats on all 4 corners

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deano_D aka "Brick Top" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use illuminas on setting 5 with custom ground control rates and top hats on all 4 corners</TD></TR></TABLE>

searchin for top hats now

 

bump

 

I ended up cutting the rear cup on my AGX's to slam my rear anymore. It ended up sitting about an inch lower.. It maybe something you are looking for.

I also ran a set of front springs on my rear struts, and the car is riding fantastic. I suggest finding a set of cheap omnipower sleeves (like I did) and you can adjust your suspension that much more.

I replaced a Skunk2 Pro-Series spring with a front Omnipower sleeve spring. It was about a whole inch lower to start, and its much stiffer and rides THAT much better.

Skunk2 Pro-Series with Omnipower front springs in rear.


Omnipower Sleeves on Tokico Illuminas (All the way down)


Ground Control Coilovers on KYB AGX's
(Ran only the spring in the rear)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr JDM South &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

searchin for top hats now</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.ground-control-stor.../CA=5

 

i'm on ots gc rates with tokico illumina shocks set to 5.

for others looking into this setup, i have to say the illuminas are excellent, but definitely bump up the spring rates. ots for dc is 380/250 and imo it's not enough.

 

*waits for Tyson or 94 eg! to chime in*

 

nice setups.

 

def gc/koni yellow combo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Koolaid_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">def gc/koni yellow combo </TD></TR></TABLE>

i knew youd chime in lol

 

With GC's on Konis, you have the advantage of not having the OEM-style lower spring perch in the way, and you can also lower the sleeve even more via the circlip on the Koni shocks.

Add to that the extended upper mounts, and then the only thing you'll have to worry about is the upper control arms smacking the shock towers. And it will happen for sure when you're that low.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With GC's on Konis, you have the advantage of not having the OEM-style lower spring perch in the way, and you can also lower the sleeve even more via the circlip on the Koni shocks.

Add to that the extended upper mounts, and then the only thing you'll have to worry about is the upper control arms smacking the shock towers. And it will happen for sure when you're that low.</TD></TR></TABLE>

extended upper mounts=top hats???

 

yes, upper mount is the more correct term, as it mounts the top of the assembly to the shock tower.

 

i was going to get the gc/koni set up anyway but this thread is sealing the deal for me

 

will changing these make a difference?

 

kinda dumb but im guessing its the OEM front "camber" kit.

school me cuz im not to keen on the exact details of suspension

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esoterEK.. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will changing these make a difference?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

That picture is just a package of aftermarket components that replace all the front ball-joint and steering-related items for a 92-95 Civic or 94-01 Integra.

Shown in the pic is OEM-replacement upper control arms, lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, and a bunch of hardware (not sure what all those long bolts and washers are for).

All those parts will retain factory alignment geometry, with adjustment only provided for toe-in.

 

=front balljoint and tierod rebuild kit. OEM parts.

I'm not looking to stir up the pot, it's your car do what you want with it.
But running the car that far down for any length of time will cause stress to the frame of the car that it was not designed to handle. Especially if driven daily. (not to mention the fillings in your teeth)

Unfortunatly I didn't have my camera at the time or I'd post up pics of a hatch that ran as slammed as the first pic for a few months, the car handled great if there were no bumps. He finially drug the chassis to a stop after running over a set of railroad tracks at 15mph.
The front upper control arms were slamming into the shock tower so much that it mangled the UCA and punched a hole in the shock tower. The left rear shock tower was completly torn through and almost through on the right.
Before someone chimes in about riding on the bumpstops and soft springs causing this, he had a few inches of travel to the suspension and was running some stiff GC/koni setup.

IMO, you can always drop it that low for pics, but raise it back up to drive it.

 

subscribed. next purchase for me is suspension. looking for more ideas!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
=front balljoint and tierod rebuild kit. OEM parts.

I'm not looking to stir up the pot, it's your car do what you want with it.
But running the car that far down for any length of time will cause stress to the frame of the car that it was not designed to handle. Especially if driven daily. (not to mention the fillings in your teeth)

Unfortunatly I didn't have my camera at the time or I'd post up pics of a hatch that ran as slammed as the first pic for a few months, the car handled great if there were no bumps. He finially drug the chassis to a stop after running over a set of railroad tracks at 15mph.
The front upper control arms were slamming into the shock tower so much that it mangled the UCA and punched a hole in the shock tower. The left rear shock tower was completly torn through and almost through on the right.
Before someone chimes in about riding on the bumpstops and soft springs causing this, he had a few inches of travel to the suspension and was running some stiff GC/koni setup.

IMO, you can always drop it that low for pics, but raise it back up to drive it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

or learn how to drive slammed.

 

If you want to roll slammed, with no suspension travel left (like the picture posted by the OP), then it really doesn't matter what suspension you use, since you won't really be using it.

00 GSR, OTS Konis, GC extended upper mounts, and perches adjusted to just tucked front tires, and I was already sitting on the bumpstops with approximately 1" of shock travel left. It rode acceptably with the shocks turned up to compensate for the additional spring rate of the bumpstops, but thats about as low as is reasonable to go for a daily driver. I ended raising the car up to get it to handle better, but it was usable.

If you want to get stupid low, just remove the springs. I'm not kidding. Keep the OEM bumpstop, uncut, and use it as the spring. Stiff shocks are required to avoid bounciness. You should end up with one stiff ride and about as low as your car can go without cutting parts for clearance. Don't forget the rear camber kit, to add "m4d tyt3 JDM camber y0!" to the back for tire clearance, but no not install one on the front, you can go lower without one. Excessive rear camber also allows lower offset wheels for that "deep dish" look (since when are wheels pizzas?).

Silliness aside, dumped show cars are probably best served with an airbag type of suspension. You get a much more progressive rate than lowering coil springs, which allows you to drive lower, and can deflate them for pictures.