Has any one ever heard of re-routing your coolant lines from your throttle body (you know, the 2 lines that run to your throttle body, then out to the iacv) and connecting them togther? I heard its supposed to give you an extra 8 hp but my question is, has any one tried it and when started, the idle jumps up and down when it warms up, and when you first start it, the idl is about 2000 rpm?Any info would be good guys, Thanks......

 

i dont see how it will give you 8hp more.

 

well the hot coolant runs threw the throttle body, thus heating the air entering the comb. chamber, or so it says. i guess redirecting it makes the air in the throttle body cooler

 

im just wondering if doing this throws my idle up and down.

 

bump anyone????

 

Skunk2 throttlebodies do not even have the coolant connection, it should be fine, especially in Hawaii. Up here in Mn it is not a good idea for winter driving though.

 

Yeah. Wouldn't suggest it for those who have harsh winters.

Although it may give you more horsepower (theoretically), it would also decrease your gas mileage. Cooler enginers use more fuel.

 

been there done that

 

i dont own a civic, so im not sure if this is what ur talking about.

if its your FITV (Fast Idle Thermo Valve), then yes re-routing them and blocking off the bottom will keep your motor cooler thus giving you theoretical gains. 8whp is WAY OFF tho. After u remove the FITV you have to block it off or your idle will surge. Have a machine shop or fab shop make u a custom plate, apply gasket and ur good to go.

i blocked mine off (temporary) and it does take longer to warm up.

 

Youre foolish if you think rerouting the coolant lines will give you 8hp.
LOL they sell "kits" for this on ebay.... Please dont tell me this is where youre getting your information....

 

Thats exactly where i got it from, i didnt order it, i just tried a homemade version, thats all. I dont think i have a FICV, its a IACV(idle air control valve). if my idle is just going up and down, should i just replace the IACV? their are no CEL's or anything just idles high when cold start then when its warm it tends to bounce up and down.........Any suggestion's..........

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si_motor_spt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats exactly where i got it from, i didnt order it, i just tried a homemade version, thats all. I dont think i have a FICV, its a IACV(idle air control valve). if my idle is just going up and down, should i just replace the IACV? their are no CEL's or anything just idles high when cold start then when its warm it tends to bounce up and down.........Any suggestion's..........</TD></TR></TABLE>

First of all its called a FITv, not a ficv, and its there for a reason. Dont buy into everything you seen on ebay. Leave it as is, and if your idle is jumping, clean it out, theres a how-to under the FAQ section.

 

Can you tell me where to go on the FAQ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Power of Dreams &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Although it may give you more horsepower (theoretically), it would also decrease your gas mileage. Cooler enginers use more fuel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cooler engines might use more fuel but cooler INTAKES will make more power. Hondata IM gasket....etc

 

Bump anyone....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Ej6mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

First of all its called a FITv, not a ficv, and its there for a reason. Dont buy into everything you seen on ebay. Leave it as is, and if your idle is jumping, clean it out, theres a how-to under the FAQ section.</TD></TR></TABLE>


smart *** response and doesnt actually answer the question...and your car does the same thing.


the fitv controls the idle before the car warms up...and the iac takes over. the fittings on my z6 tb I got for free for the fitv were broken off when I got it so I bypassed it. as a result my car idles differently based on the weather

 

First off, the IACV isn't on any throttle body's that I know of except the 96-99 Civic EX AUTOMATIC. The IACV is actually on the intake manifold. Bypassing the coolant line to the IACV alone will have a negligible effect on power.

If you bypassed the coolant to the IACV and you have loping idle, it's because you introduced air bubbles in the coolant and now you have to burp it. When the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and start the engine. Put your heater **** on hot (but you don't have to turn on the fan) and let it warm up completely and run until bubbles stop coming out. There is also a bleeder valve on the head.

In addition to bypassing the IACV, you want to bypass the coolant to the FITV. The FITV is mounted to the throttle body. This will give you a modest increase in power under certain conditions. It's not going to give you 8 peak hp. That would be incredible. You have to block off the FITV from the throttle body or you can fabricate an FITV delete plate. Unlike the IACV, all passages must be plugged. If you take the input line to the FITV on the head and run it to the output line of the IACV on the head, you bypass both in one shot.

After that you can get yourself a cheap Hondata IM knockoff and the combined effect is enough to notice. But it will not be 8 hp. Also use this opportunity to clean out the TB and IM.

Coolant and heat transfer from the head heat the intake manifold and throttle body. When the throttle is open, the incoming air cools the throttle body and intake manifold. Heat is transferred to the incoming air which causes it to expand and become less dense. With less air in the combustion chamber, less fuel gets burned.

This effect is most notable after you sit at a stop light for a long time. The IM and TB heat soak. Bypassing the coolant and isolating the intake manifold from the head (well, there's still the big coolant passage that goes to the thermostat) virtually eliminates this heat soak. It's not something that will show up on a dyno chart because those conditions don't really happen on a dyno. But around town it will make your car feel more responsive and you will gain some mpg.