i finished my d16y8 swap with a p28 with my own home made harness. but how do i check the codes?. my obd0 pm6 had the little LED that flashed, but this one obviously does not. is there any certain terminals i should jump together? it runs real strong but i need to know what the computer is bitching about. any help? i tried google, but all the articles mostly cover already obd1 chassis like egs and del slows.

 

del slows. I love my XEGX EF

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by charlee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i finished my d16y8 swap with a p28 with my own home made harness. but how do i check the codes?. my obd0 pm6 had the little LED that flashed, but this one obviously does not. is there any certain terminals i should jump together? it runs real strong but i need to know what the computer is bitching about. any help? i tried google, but all the articles mostly cover already obd1 chassis like egs and del slows.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dooode, you made your own harness but did not catch which 2 pins to jump together??? I don't know how you pulled that off since I have my diagram right here I'll be a nice guy, D21 and D4 need to be jumped, I ran mine to a on/off switch on my Dash.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The_Undertaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">del slows. I love my XEGX EF</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you F*ckin retarded???? U send me a wack *** pm and then have your pm's disabled?? No wonder everybody else is hatin on you. go away, to OP, sorry for this tard attempting to ruin your thread.

 

OK cool. its a code 21. if memory serves that's the famous vtec spool sel. now, whats concerning me is that the light its a solid from the start, let me explain, the MIL is solid after you start the car. like it goes on in the beginning when you first turn the key to the ign. position, but it fails to go out. i. last time i checked, the MIL is supposed to go out 3 or 2 seconds after the key is being put on the ign. position. not only that, but like i said it stays on during whole engine operation. like in a solid state. .is there a wire i might have missed?

also, concern 2. the code for he spool valve, i did some research on it, and it shows you how to test it. if it clicked, then i t was good after adding 12v to it. and the added wire is in the correct pin too, i double checked. so what can be causing this? could this spool valve in fact be damaged and the test procedures are faulty?

thanx once again

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by charlee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK cool. its a code 21. if memory serves that's the famous vtec spool sel. now, whats concerning me is that the light its a solid from the start, let me explain, the MIL is solid after you start the car. like it goes on in the beginning when you first turn the key to the ign. position, but it fails to go out. i. last time i checked, the MIL is supposed to go out 3 or 2 seconds after the key is being put on the ign. position. not only that, but like i said it stays on during whole engine operation. like in a solid state. .is there a wire i might have missed?

also, concern 2. the code for he spool valve, i did some research on it, and it shows you how to test it. if it clicked, then i t was good after adding 12v to it. and the added wire is in the correct pin too, i double checked. so what can be causing this? could this spool valve in fact be damaged and the test procedures are faulty?

thanx once again</TD></TR></TABLE>


Thats is the correct test procedure, it's just a simple solenoid that opens or closes when power is added. I have yet to see a vtec sol. go out (though anything mechanical can break) so it's unlikely yours is bad, I'm willing to bet it's in your wires. I know you said you checked em already but you may have missed something. Thats what happened to me on my second swap ever, just overlooked it thinking it was already right.....Triple check your wires ad connections, you made your own harness which increases your chances of a mistake from just droneing out while making the harness (also happens to me ).

Your CEL will probably be normal once you fix the code

 

damn dude!! you were right about the wires lol. i had it in the wrong pin hha.i owe your *** taco bell. damn.. i got vtec now. the check engine light goes away after the fuel pump is stops priming like it should. everything good so far, but it comes back on little after i start the car. i tried getting the codes but the MIL just stayed on and did not blink at all. could it be a 02 code? thanx a lot man.
for you

 

some one should put this in the FAQ. I was in the same boat, I didn't know wich pins to jump. I was doing d4 and d7.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by markviiisvt4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">some one should put this in the FAQ. I was in the same boat, I didn't know wich pins to jump. I was doing d4 and d7.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well like all you need is have any ground to d4. just to get the ecu talking. i dont believe it has to be a specific ground. oh update, figured out how to get the code. i guess i have to check the code while the car is on lol. thats weird but thats the only way it will spit them out haha