I think you guys remember my last topic about my car and I still have the same budget of 5,000 and I'm stuck in a decision. I want a B-series swap bad but it wont fit my budget with buying the body parts, body work, paint, and wheels. So what is the better idea?

Leave the ricer look until I can afford the oem exterior and swap in a B16 the right way.

or

Buy the oem parts, get the apperance done and swap in a D16 or ZC and get as many performance parts as I can manage.

Help me out!

 

Get outside looking back to OEM then work on performance. With $5k could do it all just have to be careful and look for deals. You could always put a LS in there and then make it LS/VTEC later. LS motor and trans go for 400-1000.

 

I thought about the LS, but being in Hawaii there aren't very many j-yards and shipping is just crazy.

BTW thanks for not locking this Toad, I know it'slacking in the tech depot.

 

If I were you, I would spend some time making the car clean first...genuinely clean/unmolested cars like these are far and wide anymore and you will find that you will be alot more happy with a sexy looking car too. As for the power plant, seeing as you stated that you cant afford a B16, I would do what Toad said and get a b18b....if you really cant get one, dont be ashamed of sticking with a d-series. I know plent of naughty as d's that would stick it to me good, and ive got a b16a.

Make it clean man, take your time.

 

This sounds retarded but I think I'm am going to be OCD with this car. I can see myself riding my bike to work for a couple months..

 

well...if you're going to be OCD with it, then go all out! Everyone loves a good 40,000 dollar debt on a vehicle that's worth 2-3k.

Sounds to me like you've got the drive, take it and run with it. If you are going to do a full restoration..that kind of stuff takes time, prepare to get bored with it. I'm a good year into my car and I still need literally thousands of dollars to get it clean where I want to to be.

Kudos

 

I don't have the accets or the money for like bare chassismedia blasting or anything of that nature but as far as tucking the engine bay, cleaning up the suspension, killing the rice monster, and stuff of that nature I'm game. I've been reading a lot of build threads and their really helping my motivation.

 

Just been checking out prices for engines and found out that the LS costs like 700 more than a OBD0 B16. Or am I looking for a DA LS engine? I really dont wanna convert to hydro though..

 

DA LS = b18a w/cable tranny
DC LS = b18b w/hydro tranny

if you don't wanna convert, you know what to look for

 

ever think about doing an sohc turbo. those setups are not very expensive.

 

you could always just go with the d and buy parts wisely and prep it for a turbo or blower set up later on down the road when you got the money to spare. b's are alot of fun in a crx, but d's can be just as fun at times. not to mention that they are cheap to replace when you you blow em. and they are a bit easier to work on than a b

 

This is my first swap. I know I could go d-series but the only ones I can find are d15bs(hydro), sohc zc and dohc zcs.I would go the EF si route but I can't find one online and places to buy engines in Hawaii really don't exsist.

 

just get a single cam motor without a trans and then check in the classifieds on here for an si trans. yo can usually find them for 150 to 300. 1 dude has one posted in the fs/wtb post in this forum for 130 w/o shiping, but im sure that you could work something out

 

Good idea. Since I have a HF and it's MPFI and if I get a hold of a D16 am I going to have wiring issues. I know the interior harness is different, but is the engine harness different?

 

an si ecu (pr6) will plug right into the harness inside, and will run the car. the best way to go is convert it to obd1 using a conversion harness from rywire or something., and then run a p28 vtec ecu. as for the engine bay, you can just use a set of si injectors. use the engine bay harness off of your car for the new engine, and modify it as needed. keep the resistor type injectors, and resistor box. if you ever want to get aftermarket injectors this will give you more choices, and resistor type injectors are better ne way (acording to an article in hondatuning magazine).

 

Seeing that confuses me. Kinda making me hesitate on doing a swap. So if I can get my hands on a OBD1 d series engine will a cable tranny bolt up? I was thinking the D15b, you know the EG VTI, and using an SI cable tranny and a P28(once I figure out where to buy them). Will that be a mostly bolt-in procedure or is there going to be some intense wiring involved? I guess I need to read more

 

yes any d series with a d series cable tranny will be direct bolt in. you can get an obd0 to obd1 jumper harness for the ecu and then all you need is conversion plugs for the distrubutor. many companies make both of those like rywire. you will also have to run 2 wires to the ecu for vtec to work. ooo and you will have to use the mounts off of your motor not the ones that come with the vti if thats the motor you chose to get. yes a d series cable trans will bolt up directly as well.

Edit: 100th post holler

 

just what snailed ef said, direct bolt in using the stock mounts rom your rex, trans bolts right up, get a jumperharness, wire the 02, vtec solonoid, and pressure switch. if you use the jumper from rywire, everything is color coded and prety much idiot proof. you can find ecu's in the classifieds on here, or you can get them on ebay. i stongly recomend phearable. net, they sell ecu's that are chiped and maped to your specs, for your motor set up, and they are only 185$ shipped. i got mine 3 days after i placed my order! i was amazed at the fast shipping. the wiring is not bad at all becouse you are starting with a multi point injected car rather than a dual point like a dx. just do it, you can search and fimd all of the info on here, or you can pm me and and i can walk you through the whole thing step by step.