like it says i have a obd0-obd1 conversion on my crx with b16. and i found away to check the check engine light on it and the check engine like stays on doesnt go off till i take the paper clip out. doesn anyone know y the check engine light stays on like that... is it a bad ecu or wat?... thanks for trying to help me big b.

 

if going to OBD 1 u need a second o2 sensor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_titan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if going to OBD 1 u need a second o2 sensor </TD></TR></TABLE>

nope.

OBD0 = 2 one-wire O2 sensors
OBD1 = 1 four-wire O2 sensor

Rywire suggests installing a switch that you can flip to check your codes instead of the paperclip. Does your car start? Is it just the light staying on that worries you? what's really going on?

 

That is exactly how it works. You ground that wire to check the codes. In your case by inserting the clip you are grounding the CEL wire and thus cheking your codes. You only inser the clip to check for codes, then remove the clip. If the light stays on AFTER you remove the clip, then you have a code that needs to be corrected.
Now, a solid CEL means a bad ECU. Normally the car will not run, ot run very badly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91highryda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">like it says i have a obd0-obd1 conversion on my crx with b16. and i found away to check the check engine light on it and the check engine like stays on doesnt go off till i take the paper clip out. doesn anyone know y the check engine light stays on like that... is it a bad ecu or wat?... thanks for trying to help me big b.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've had 2 OBD1 converted EF's and when there were no codes they both did the same thing. Jumper the connection and the CEL will come on solid, unjumper it and the CEL goes off.

Sounds like you're fine.

 

ok the car wont even start... its been like this for a week now and stilll nothing... i got a new jumper b.c. the wires on the the rywire jumper had wires were comming off so i got a new one... and concerted the v-tec wires and the o2 and car wont start still and i got spark,starter is good and still nothing... i even bum started it bc i thought the starter was goign out and still nothing... anyone know?
thanks brandon

 

What wire did you jump with A13? I spent all last night going thru schematic and have came up with nothing.

90 civic Std, D16Z6 , Obd1 Converted on P06 (nogs stole my P28) 1200 miles on swap, first problem. fuel cutoof at 3k and has been running kinda rich for the past week, yesterday started trhowing a CEl, goe into limp mode, till you turn hte key off/on then it accelerates fine till you decel again. If I can pull the code I can fix the problem.

 

Guys,

Code 0, Solid CEL, bad ecu.

Main symptom, car won't start. He said his car won't start.

Try any other D or B series obd1 (vtec or non vtec, dont matter) ecu and see if it will start. IF it starts and run, it's the ecu.

 

are you nuts... if your running a obd1 system, and jumper the connector while the car is running the check engine light will stay on. if you take off the clip the light will go away... this is how it works. if it was a cel 1, it would blink once super fast. code 20 would be two long flashes. a 22 would be two long and two fast.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dem0nk1d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you nuts... if your running a obd1 system, and jumper the connector while the car is running the check engine light will stay on. if you take off the clip the light will go away... this is how it works. if it was a cel 1, it would blink once super fast. code 20 would be two long flashes. a 22 would be two long and two fast.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

he said the car will not even start.......

 

spark, fuel, compression?