I know this subject is played to death but....
....I'm getting desperate so I'm gonna post it anyway. my little std is dying. left cv joint is shot, syncros are shot in the weak 4 speed tranny, clutch is almost shot, weak 1.5l engine is burning AND leaking oil, and I'm just tired of not having any power!
Now, I can only come up with about $2500.00 for an entire swap. and I don't want to throw another tired motor in only to pull it out in a couple of months because something stupid broke. So that $2500 has to refresh the motor/tranny as well and make it reliable. I will be doing most of my own labor, although I have friends that own a tranny shop that are going to go through the trans for me at a discount rate.
I thought my solution was going to be to just get a stock si motor from a junkyard or classifieds, freshen it up, and maybe go mini-me later on down the road. but the few and rare places I've been able to find domestic engines and parts, nobody has the entire engine/trans/ecu package, and the seperate parts are adding up to more than a b16 swap!!!!
So my question (which i realize has been asked before in diferent ways) is this:
Can it be done? Can I do a RELIABLE swap, with decent hp increase, for $2500 grand total? Also, is there anywhere else I can look for good deals on si eng/trans/ecu's? or maybe just the trans & ecu so I can get a ZC long block?
Now, I can only come up with about $2500.00 for an entire swap. and I don't want to throw another tired motor in only to pull it out in a couple of months because something stupid broke. So that $2500 has to refresh the motor/tranny as well and make it reliable. I will be doing most of my own labor, although I have friends that own a tranny shop that are going to go through the trans for me at a discount rate.
I thought my solution was going to be to just get a stock si motor from a junkyard or classifieds, freshen it up, and maybe go mini-me later on down the road. but the few and rare places I've been able to find domestic engines and parts, nobody has the entire engine/trans/ecu package, and the seperate parts are adding up to more than a b16 swap!!!!
So my question (which i realize has been asked before in diferent ways) is this:
Can it be done? Can I do a RELIABLE swap, with decent hp increase, for $2500 grand total? Also, is there anywhere else I can look for good deals on si eng/trans/ecu's? or maybe just the trans & ecu so I can get a ZC long block?
YES, go with B16A. if you don't know where to get it, go to jdmhondaparts.com or hondamotorsonline.com, and you'll be able to squeeze a very good engine swap with $2500
2500 U.S.??? you should be able to pull off a swap for that much easy... I spent about 1500 canadian on my D16y8, ECU, all parts, engine in car. I guess cause you have an std you have to replace a bunch more crap than I did, but hey 2500 is more than enough especially if you stay d series.
b16 from jdmhondaparts w/ the special they had for hasport mounts and linkage was 2350 shiped. and you'll need new hubs/knuckles. you'll have to rewire everything as well. not to mention all the other misc stuff you will need/want. new clutch, timing belt, water pump. blah blah.
i say do a zc.
i say do a zc.
YES, go with B16A. if you don't know where to get it, go to jdmhondaparts.com or hondamotorsonline.com, and you'll be able to squeeze a very good engine swap with $2500
If I do a ZC, I want to use an Si Trans and either an Si or teg ECU, anyone know where I can get these for a reasonable price?
here:
http://www.nippon-motors.com/
www.jdmhondaparts.com
if you want relibility then simply go with D16z6 or D16y8, it's much newer better, on gas, and almost makes the same power, with it get an Si tranny, PG7 ecu + VAFC
motor = $200-600 for a clean one (or JDM setups: ZC SOHC VTEC or D16A sohc vtec or 1.5L VTi D15B sohc vtec will work)
tranny = $150-350 go with a 90-1 style Si
Si/teg ecu = $50-120
VAFC = $300-350
new clutch/timing belt/mis. tune up parts = $250-300
misc conversion parts = $100
thats only about $1000-1500 leaves you with another $1000:
- Zex or Crower cam or skunk2 = $300-350
-AEM CAI = $180-280
-DC header = $250-320
-shave head = $50-100
-cam gear = $100
all will be around $2500 and motor which will have power close to a B16A (stock)
125-130whp is easily possible, but thats with 150lbs less
or simply get a ZC DOHC with a tranny + 90-3 teg/ZC axles + PM6 ecu for about = $1500, clean it up, tune it, rebuild it, the shave head, add a bolt ons or two and you be at $2500 as well
check www.car-parts.com
http://www.partsadventure.com/
[Modified by eg6ajk, 10:09 AM 6/20/2002]
http://www.nippon-motors.com/
www.jdmhondaparts.com
if you want relibility then simply go with D16z6 or D16y8, it's much newer better, on gas, and almost makes the same power, with it get an Si tranny, PG7 ecu + VAFC
motor = $200-600 for a clean one (or JDM setups: ZC SOHC VTEC or D16A sohc vtec or 1.5L VTi D15B sohc vtec will work)
tranny = $150-350 go with a 90-1 style Si
Si/teg ecu = $50-120
VAFC = $300-350
new clutch/timing belt/mis. tune up parts = $250-300
misc conversion parts = $100
thats only about $1000-1500 leaves you with another $1000:
- Zex or Crower cam or skunk2 = $300-350
-AEM CAI = $180-280
-DC header = $250-320
-shave head = $50-100
-cam gear = $100
all will be around $2500 and motor which will have power close to a B16A (stock)
125-130whp is easily possible, but thats with 150lbs less
or simply get a ZC DOHC with a tranny + 90-3 teg/ZC axles + PM6 ecu for about = $1500, clean it up, tune it, rebuild it, the shave head, add a bolt ons or two and you be at $2500 as well
check www.car-parts.com
http://www.partsadventure.com/
[Modified by eg6ajk, 10:09 AM 6/20/2002]
Thanks, this is helping.
"if you want relibility then simply go with D16z6 or D16y8....with it get an Si tranny, PG7 ecu + VAFC"
If I do the newer engine swap, will it be a pain to convert to OBD1 or OBD2, or am I going to have to buy injectors, dizzy, etc,etc,etc to convert the engine to OBD0 (there goes some more money) keep in mind I have DPFI and need to convert to MPFI as well.
"tranny = $150-350 go with a 90-1 style Si"
The only trans I can find locally, they want $375 and they're not even sure if it's from an Si, all they know is it's a cable type 5 speed. My friends at the tranny shop can get me a rebuilt Si tranny for $550 with a 12 mo / 12000 mi waranty and my choice of input shaft splines.... I'm kinda liking the idea of knowing I have a reliable trans w/ new syncros. They're recomending getting a Centerforce clutch and pressure plate (not so sure about this idea) Keep in mind these are Chevy v-8 guys I'm dealing with.
"Si/teg ecu = $50-120"
Still having problems locating one of these
VAFC = $300-350
VAFC=variable air/fuel controler????
"new clutch/timing belt/mis. tune up parts = $250-300"
If I go aftermarket on the clutch, clutch itself would be at least $350, will a stock replacement be good enough for hard driving?
"or simply get a ZC DOHC with a tranny + 90-3 teg/ZC axles + PM6 ecu for about $1500"
How bout ZC, si trans, stock axles so I don't have to change the hubs & knuckles? Other than torque steer, will stock axles be a problem?
"if you want relibility then simply go with D16z6 or D16y8....with it get an Si tranny, PG7 ecu + VAFC"
If I do the newer engine swap, will it be a pain to convert to OBD1 or OBD2, or am I going to have to buy injectors, dizzy, etc,etc,etc to convert the engine to OBD0 (there goes some more money) keep in mind I have DPFI and need to convert to MPFI as well.
"tranny = $150-350 go with a 90-1 style Si"
The only trans I can find locally, they want $375 and they're not even sure if it's from an Si, all they know is it's a cable type 5 speed. My friends at the tranny shop can get me a rebuilt Si tranny for $550 with a 12 mo / 12000 mi waranty and my choice of input shaft splines.... I'm kinda liking the idea of knowing I have a reliable trans w/ new syncros. They're recomending getting a Centerforce clutch and pressure plate (not so sure about this idea) Keep in mind these are Chevy v-8 guys I'm dealing with.
"Si/teg ecu = $50-120"
Still having problems locating one of these
VAFC = $300-350
VAFC=variable air/fuel controler????
"new clutch/timing belt/mis. tune up parts = $250-300"
If I go aftermarket on the clutch, clutch itself would be at least $350, will a stock replacement be good enough for hard driving?
"or simply get a ZC DOHC with a tranny + 90-3 teg/ZC axles + PM6 ecu for about $1500"
How bout ZC, si trans, stock axles so I don't have to change the hubs & knuckles? Other than torque steer, will stock axles be a problem?
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post a WTB ad in the classifieds section for a d16z6/y8 swap. these should be a dime a dozen. there should be plenty of ppl with d-series stuff takin up room in their basements. i know im guilty of that. i wouldnt pay over $500 for d16z6 engine/tranny in decent condition. thats the beauty of d-series. cheap and plenty around.
i never had to deal with dpfi to mpfi swap but dont u have to do this pretty mcuh regardless of whatever path you choose (zc, d16a6, d16z6)? seriously with $2500, some researching, and effort you can put together a nice d-series.
obd1 is kind of optimal, but you can stay obd0. a pg7 ecu (88-89 teg) is a decent choice..you can use a obd0 distrib to match up to it. if you were to obtain a d16y8, the distrib will mount up with no probs. a d16z6 you have to do some creative mounting. i can lend advice as i have done so. i would also try to get a d16y8 intake mani with sensors on it. it has the same design as the itr intake. also a b-series tb (larger diameter) will bolt directly up to it.
i'd think a stock replacement clutch would be fine. i just put a used oem d16z6 clutch disc in my d16z6 crx and it holds fine. i was just sitting there spinning the tires for 15+ feet in it the other day (i was bored damnit). i also picked it up for $30 shipped. big difference from $350 for an aftermarket one. you might want to pick up a lightened flywheel tho. makes fun factor go way up.
v in vafc is vtec not variable. you need it because the d16z6 and d16y8 are sohc vtecs.
i never had to deal with dpfi to mpfi swap but dont u have to do this pretty mcuh regardless of whatever path you choose (zc, d16a6, d16z6)? seriously with $2500, some researching, and effort you can put together a nice d-series.
obd1 is kind of optimal, but you can stay obd0. a pg7 ecu (88-89 teg) is a decent choice..you can use a obd0 distrib to match up to it. if you were to obtain a d16y8, the distrib will mount up with no probs. a d16z6 you have to do some creative mounting. i can lend advice as i have done so. i would also try to get a d16y8 intake mani with sensors on it. it has the same design as the itr intake. also a b-series tb (larger diameter) will bolt directly up to it.
i'd think a stock replacement clutch would be fine. i just put a used oem d16z6 clutch disc in my d16z6 crx and it holds fine. i was just sitting there spinning the tires for 15+ feet in it the other day (i was bored damnit). i also picked it up for $30 shipped. big difference from $350 for an aftermarket one. you might want to pick up a lightened flywheel tho. makes fun factor go way up.
v in vafc is vtec not variable. you need it because the d16z6 and d16y8 are sohc vtecs.
for almost 2500 u can get a freaking B16A1 combo from nippon-motors.... and the rest of the money swaping..... it will be a good setup and ur ca will fly compared to how it is now.....
if not get a ZC engine wich run into 600 with tranny.... get a 88-89 teg ecu , swap urself... u have urself aroun 135 hp.. upgrade, fuel ,air , exhaust sytem and a little No2 shot and ull have more power than a b16....peace
if not get a ZC engine wich run into 600 with tranny.... get a 88-89 teg ecu , swap urself... u have urself aroun 135 hp.. upgrade, fuel ,air , exhaust sytem and a little No2 shot and ull have more power than a b16....peace
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