My main source used free horsepower for a Nissan 240SX. They gained 45 horsepower.

http://www.royalpurple.com/dragsport1/ds1p1.html

THE SUMMARY:::
1. Correct Plug Type & Plug Gap
2. Remove The Air Filter
3. Advance Ignition Timing
4. Remove Nonessential Belts
5. Remove Exhaust System
6. Use Higher Octane; Octane Booster
7. "The Cool Down"
8. Weight Reduction
9. DRIVING SKILLS

1. Correct Plug Type & Plug Gap
Spark plugs have two design parameters that directly influence voltage requirements: center electrode diameter and the air gap distance. As the center electrode is reduced in diameter voltage requirements are lowered making it easier for a spark to be produced. The same reduction in voltage requirements occurs when the air gap size is reduced.

2. Remove The Air Filter
Try breathing with a pillow over your face, and then without. However, doing this will allow debris into your engine. For the extra dollar, get an intake, a great mod for any car.

3. Advance Ignition Timing
Advance the exact point when the spark is fired in the cylinder. I advanced my D15B2 1 or 2 degrees and felt good about it.

4. Remove Nonessential Belts
Your engine uses power to power Power Steering and your Air Conditioning. I took out my A/C because my car is more or less of a beater anyways. I felt a small difference in power.

5. Remove Exhaust System
Just like intake, you want your exhaust to have a lot of air flow. But, you obviously can't drive around with no exhaust. Your local parts store should sell exhaust pipe very cheap, if you can weld or no someone who can, why not look into this? Or you can pay extra and get a brand name exhaust system. I have something like a 1" tip on my car. No wonder I get 40mpg.

6. Use Higher Octane; Octane Booster
I have always been told to throw in some higher octane on occasion anyways because it is good for your engine. I don't know how true this is but I like to anyways. It couldn't hurt. Anyone have input on Octane Booster?

7. "The Cool Down"
This is a drag-racing tip. In between runs put bags of ice on your valve cover to cool it down. The cooler, the better.

8. Weight Reduction
This is common sense. Go shopping after you go to the strip, not before. There is a lot of parts on your car you can replace with something lighter. In some cases you may want to take out.

9. DRIVING SKILLS
This is the most overlooked point. This does not apply to everyone, I know. Everyone has room for improvement. Chances are if you are into a certain type of race you know somebody involved in it. Ask them questions, and a lot of them. Put them in the passenger seat. Listen.

If anyone might like to add something, go for it.


Modified by draperj09 at 9:53 PM 10/12/2007


Modified by draperj09 at 9:55 PM 10/12/2007

 

higher octane doesn't always lead to higher hp...

 

lol I read # 4 wrong

4. Remove Nonessential Bolts

I was like WTF!!

on a serious note Advancing ignition timing is not guaranteed HP I would leave it alove or at stock till you have the car on a dyno.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spun Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol I read # 4 wrong

4. Remove Nonessential Bolts

I was like WTF!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

weight reduction for the FTMFW! lol

 

Yeah, I took out my camgear bolt to save weight, the results werent what I expected.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spun Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, I took out my camgear bolt to save weight, the results werent what I expected.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i removed my motor mount bolts, those damn 17mm's can get pretty heavy!!

 

# 7 and 8 won't do anything. Look at the thermal efficiency of an engine and then say you want the temp cooler.

 

Driver get on a diet, or better yet, drive the car naked, that'll shed 5-10 lbs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spun Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol I read # 4 wrong

4. Remove Nonessential Bolts

I was like WTF!!

on a serious note Advancing ignition timing is not guaranteed HP I would leave it alove or at stock till you have the car on a dyno.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol, funny friday morning.

 

isn't royal purple a ricer company thats overrated with their products?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"># 7 and 8 won't do anything. Look at the thermal efficiency of an engine and then say you want the temp cooler.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is it a coincidence that Royal Purple sells coolant and oil?

 

What this thread should really be titled is "10 ways to free horsepower on SOME engines" not all. All the things listed will tend to work as a whole group, on older muscle car domestic motors. Newer, more tightly tuned and controlled engines will see little or no gains using these methods depending on the part combinations etc.

 

These are all of the tips from the "10 minute tune up" that muscle mustangs and fast fords published years ago. Not really meant for Hondas.

The thermostat is meant to help decrease the chance of detonation with the timing advanced, iron blocks hold way more heat than our alluminum ones. the octane booster was also to prevent detonation. Believe it or not, people regularly showed a .2 to .5 improvement in their 1/4 mile times. but again, this was mustangs not hondas

MM&FF used to recommend between 14-17 degrees of advance (which is why they were trying to do so much to prevent detonation). iron blocks and heads, at least two times the displacement, and never revving past 5k rpm. You can see why this might work for mustangs and not us, right?

These are great tips if you have an old small block V8, but they don't mean **** to us.

 

thanks for your guys input. ill be editing this later
and true, this was meant for v8's

 

1 way to make 45whp on that car......a boost contrller

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drive the car naked,</TD></TR></TABLE>

driving nekid ftw

 

"Bag of ice on valve cover" ???

I think you mean on intake manifold to cool down air temps?

 

ten ways to make power on a honda:

research
existing
successful
builds
by
asking
questions
and
being a
student first

 

ok im tired so maybe im blind ...where is the tenth way? i see nine ways what am i missing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Uncle Willie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"Bag of ice on valve cover" ???
</TD></TR></TABLE>
\
Fak!!! that said on valve cover? I read in valve cover, I figured ice cold water would work just as well..........and there was even a place for me to pour it in

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1.8L_allmotormilitia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">isn't royal purple a ricer company thats overrated with their products? </TD></TR></TABLE>


dont know where you get yuor info from or maybe youve had a bad experience....but on my gsr sawp with the oil alone I picked up 3hp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HATCHBACK GORILLA! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


dont know where you get yuor info from or maybe youve had a bad experience....but on my gsr sawp with the oil alone I picked up 3hp </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ive had good luck woth RP aswell.

 

sorry, i can't edit the title

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spun Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ive had good luck woth RP aswell.</TD></TR></TABLE>

royal purple

 

this thread is full of misinformation. For one making the gap smaller is usually only done if you are running nitrous, boost or higher compression. It is done because of the increase cylinder pressure and increased load on the ignition system. Typically you want a larger gap if you can get away with it not a smaller one. A smaller gap provides more ignition lag, something you dont want. And timing, like everyone else said shouldnt be adjusted unless on the dyno otherwise you have no idea if your actually making any power. You dont want to advance timing further than you make power.