I'm going to be redoing my car's wiring harness, and I need a solder gun.

I bought one from Autozone, and it's not doing ****. It doesn't heat up the wire enough to melt the solder. The only way I can get it to melt is to directly touch the solder to the gun.

How many watts is needed in a gun to join two 16 gauge wires together? And maybe splice three or more wires together? I may also be doing some 6 gauge wire for my battery.

 

The Weller D550, a dual 200/260 watt, soldering gun is about the best all around soldering gun you can get, can be had for under $50. [US].
It will easley solder ring terminals to 8ga power wire, would even do 6ga wire, with some patience.

What is the wattage of the gun you have now? 94

 

I have one of these -

http://www99.epinions.com/Shop...54045

And one of these -

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...l=all

Neither get hot enough for the gauge of wiring I do. Well I should say, they work, but having to set the iron on an ignition wire for a minute and a half or more is pretty rediculous. I need to upgrade to something better.

*Googles fcm's weller*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What is the wattage of the gun you have now? 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

Doesn't even have one. It has a wide-*** tip that sucks. All it says is 110 volt, and like 1.5A or something like that.

You think 250 watts would be ok for the smaller 16 g. wires too?

 

I will post pics of mine in the morning. I have 3. One is a nice butane powered one you can get from Grainger or Snap-On, it's really good for working without electricity. I have a basic plug in one I use most. Plug it in, and solder away. Nothing too crazy or expensive. The third one is the larger butane torch I used in my alarm thread. I can use the "torch" part and VERY easily solder 0 gauge power cable.

I'm sick, so, I'll get ya pics in the a.m....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegaS10 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a basic plug in one I use most. Plug it in, and solder away. Nothing too crazy or expensive. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How many watts is it? I don't really want a butane one, I just need an electric one that will heat up my wire enough.

 

I have one of these for just soldering wires.
http://www.radioshack.com/prod...earch

Works ok, dont know about soldering connectors on large wires though. I use my oven burner for that.

 

6 gauge is going to be difficult but a higher wattage soldering iron will do it.

What kind of solder are you using? It sounds like it's way too thick. Use .032 or thereabouts. A little thinner is fine but its going to evaporate when you're trying to do the 6 ga at high temperature.

Don't hold the iron to the wire while it's heating up. That's bad for the wire and makes it take a lot longer. Heat up the iron first, then touch the wire and quickly apply the solder. Let it soak through the strands.

 

The "Torch":



It literally laughs at 0 gauge wire. The tip can be removed and used as a torch. Leave it on and it can do the tiniest wires. It is also adjustable so it does'nt get too hot. $25 at Lowe's.

The "Stick":

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_1...+iron

Nice and adjustable. I lengthed the cord from the stick to the station so I can get in those tight spaces. Kind of pricey, but Weller makes good stuff. No pics of my personal one because my neighbor is borrowing it.

The "Daily":

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1YMK3

I use this to do installs all day long. It will do 10-12 gauge wire, but can take sometime. The ONLY thing I don't like is the exhaust vent for the butane. It can easily burn and damage other suraces in it's way. Just stay aware and you'll be fine.

I know some of these may seem pricey, but buy quality tools the first time and you'll only buy them once...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You think 250 watts would be ok for the smaller 16 g. wires too?</TD></TR></TABLE> Yes.

I have 5 diff. soldering "guns" the Weller D550, a Weller soldering station, the Snap On butane, an old 1500W "pencil", [from the old days when I was installing galvanized eavestroughs] and of coarse the old school plumbers torch, [Bernz0matic]... http://www.bernzomatic.com/ber...00045 you can solder ring terminals to 0ga with this puppy.

Soldering is very easy when you know how or a PITA if you do not know how.
Soldering is all about heat, the right amount of heat at the right time at the right spot, the right tip, a clean tip, [a wet sponge to wipe tip after every use is the best way to keep a tip clean] it is also critical what kind of solder, [and it's thickness] you use, in your case you should be using a 60/40 resin core solder .032 or so as Hatch mentioned.
Bring tip temp. up, put a dab of solder on tip, touch tip to wire, add another dab of solder between tip and wire, [heat will transfer into wire quickly] add more solder to opposite side of wire from where tip is, it will flow towards the heat of the tip and "soak" into all the wire at the connection you are making.

I would suggest you sit at a table/bench and practice a bit until you get the hang of it. 94

 

One thing to remember when soldering, solder will follow the heat.

If you just touch the tip to the surface and feed the solder into the tip the solder will not move off of the tip.

Preheat the wire (large wire) first, apply a small dab of solder to the iron then touch it to the surface of what you are soldering. Now feed the solder in from the opposite side, if its at the correct temp the wire should suck the solder up. If it just stick to the surface and doesn't "wick" into the wire then it's not hot enough.

 

The solder should just melt into the wire. There should be no "blobs" anywhere, just a nice silver connection.

Practice outside the car on scraps before you start making critical connections.

 

Master Ultratorch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Master Ultratorch </TD></TR></TABLE>

That isn't cheap

http://www.howardelectronics.c....html

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegaS10 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The "Torch":



It literally laughs at 0 gauge wire. The tip can be removed and used as a torch. Leave it on and it can do the tiniest wires. It is also adjustable so it does'nt get too hot. $25 at Lowe's.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think I'll pick one of these up today. Thanks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegaS10 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The "Torch":

I know some of these may seem pricey, but buy quality tools the first time and you'll only buy them once...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Word. None of the ones you listed are really all that expensive though

Personally, I love buying tools, so $50 a pop is nothing, especially if I'll get a lot of use out of it.

 

I have no problem paying for high quality tools. When I was younger I learned the hard way how a cheap quality tool can leave you stranded at the worse possible time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8520 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That isn't cheap

http://www.howardelectronics.c....html </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats actuallt pretty cheap for a soldering iron I use a Metcal soldering iron for soldering electronics. Just two tip replacements would buy that iron

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Don't hold the iron to the wire while it's heating up. That's bad for the wire and makes it take a lot longer. Heat up the iron first, then touch the wire and quickly apply the solder. Let it soak through the strands.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I tried that, but the solder doesn't melt when it touches the wire. The only way I can get the solder to melt is to touch the tip itself.

Does this mean that my gun is just not hot enough to heat up the wire fully? What wattage gun would you recommend. I really don't want to have to get a butane one...

 

i have the snap-on YAKS32, adjustable from 25-125 watts equivelent... works well and every internal part can be replaced, not bad for $150... and it heats up fully in 40 seconds.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, I tried that, but the solder doesn't melt when it touches the wire. The only way I can get the solder to melt is to touch the tip itself.

Does this mean that my gun is just not hot enough to heat up the wire fully? What wattage gun would you recommend. I really don't want to have to get a butane one...</TD></TR></TABLE> If the solder is not "soaking' into the wire it is for one of three reasons....

1- The heat from the soldering iron tip is not transferring to the wire.
2- The solder you are using is not resin core.
3- Dirt, dirty soldering iron tip, dirty or oxidized wire.

As has been mentioned, soldering is all about heat and heat transfer, first the soldering iron tip most be hot enough to instantly "melt" the solder when you touch it to the tip, you must be able to transfer that heat to the wire you are soldering quickly, to do this the wire must be clean, free of dirt, oils and oxidization, the soldering iron tip must be clean, the wires need to be tightly twisted together, a drop of solder on the tip will help transfer the heat into the wire, adding a little more solder to the tip where it is making contact with the wire will help transfer the heat and start "soaking" solder into the wire speeding up the heat transfer to the point that you can then add solder to the opposite side of the wire that the tip is in contact with, the solder will "flow" through the wire towards the heat of the tip.
None of the above will work if you are not using a resin core solder. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">None of the above will work if you are not using a resin core solder. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

It will still work if you are really good. (It's all about heat transfer and getting the solder to its utectic point) Think of flux is kinda like a lubricant for solder. It makes solder flow better. You can still solder without flux, it's actually a desired method if possible. ALL flux is corrosive and will corrode your wires over time.
Acid core -&gt;the worst usually only for plumbing
Organic-&gt; used in professional assembly houses, needs to be cleaned with water. (not recommended for wires)
Rosin-&gt; (acidic at high temps) most common general purpose flux. Can be cleaned with alcohol must be high grade 99% or better.
No Clean-&gt; Least corrosive requires skill to use.

Also the solder used matters. Most companies are now moving away from solder with lead in it. Lead based solders flow much better then the lead free type solders. Lead free solders will not have as shiny of a finish.

 

I agree, however for a no0b installing his own alarm a 60/40 resin core is the best way to go.
All the wiring for my Alpine alarm and audio in my 94LS was soldered with 60/40 resin core solder, back in 95, so that's 12 years without any problems, connections are still good wiring is still in near perfect condition at the solder connections.

Although resin/fluxes undoubtedly would cause problems for the circuitry in the Alpine alarm, [a lot of surface mount components] I have never found it to be any kind of a problem when making wiring connections for alarms, remote starters and audio systems, in over 30 years of using the standard 60/40 resin core solder, and I know of no better way of making a bulletproof connection. 94

 

is it just me that has had luck with it but iv soldered 14 gauge wire with a radioshack 40watt iron with no problem at all

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree, however for a no0b installing his own alarm a 60/40 resin core is the best way to go. Although resin/fluxes undoubtedly would cause problems for the circuitry in the Alpine alarm, [a lot of surface mount components] I have never found it to be any kind of a problem when making wiring connections for alarms, remote starters and audio systems, in over 30 years of using the standard 60/40 resin core solder, and I know of no better way of making a bulletproof connection. 94 </TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed rosin flux is the best general purpose flux, although messy and sticky.

If you dont have corrosion on your wires then you use the minimal amount of flux like your supposed to. My experience is people who dont know how to solder will keep adding flux to keep the solder "flowing".

Using smaller and smaller amounts of flux is something to work towards. With the ultimate skill test using no flux at all, which is very possible.

 

I have a couple of questions

I need to wire up multiple gauges which require a "constant" power connection as well as "on" from ignition & "illumination" for when the lights are on.

what is the best way to wire them? meaning should I have multiple wires for the above soldered to a single oem wire (thinking of tapping climate control wires). instead of making an "intersection" of 3 or 4 or more wires, should I make several connections consecutively like 4 into 2 into 1... should the single wire be thicker than the 2 or 4 wires leading into it?

should I increase the amp of any related fuses? can I run 16ga wire off a 18ga oe lead

any suggestion for what gauge to run constant power to 4 hid ballasts? once again my question applies about running 4 power wires into 1 to the battery